Dulagarl: the Lifted H6 Forester

Well, I bought it, and I have to say that what SKT has done is truly inspired.

It’s a freaking rocket on the bitumen, and it has an enormous amount of grunt offroad.

Engine transplant thread is here:

https://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16564

Here’s a little log of bring it home, and it’s first offroad trip once home.

Jan 29th I flew to Coolangatta. Scott picked me up at the airport and we went for a drive. It didn’t take long for me to be convinced that I should buy this. Sure, it had a couple of issues, for example some worn out bushes in the front end, and a cooling issue, but I could tell that this was a VERY serious vehicle.

Brought it home via Lismore and Casino and then to Tamworth for the night. Next day was Tamworth to Narrandera. Narrandera to Melbourne on the Minday was relatively easy after all of that.

Saw some amazing country in the process. Didn’t have time for many snaps, but here are a few…

Some of the country just into NSW after casino…

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Took a detour via the outer solar system…

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Actually, that virtual solar system drive from siding spring observatory is a good idea. That pic was taken in Gilgandra.

While on the space bent, couldn’t resist a couple of pics with the Parkes Radio Telescope…

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It was 38 degrees Celsius when those shots were taken, and it didn’t get cooler for hours. Unsurprisingly, the vehicle got a bit hot just south of Forbes.

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A bit further south past West Wyalong, and there was still water around from December. Ridiculously flat country with paddocks turned to lakes…

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So, when I got home, I went straight to the mechanic and got an aircon service. I also consulted about improving airflow to the radiator. I looked at pics of offroad bars on Outbacks on the Subaxtreme site, and also the bar on the latest Forester. Armed with that info I decided to cut some holes in the bulbar, and this is the result…

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Gotta love the grille mesh from supacheap auto!

So, I then set up the GPS on the dash with some adhesive Velcro…

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and connected the ECU to the laptop to monitor engine performance and temperatures.

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(BTW: I think I might have resolved the “cooling issues”!)

... part two to follow
 
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Went and visited it in the car hospital yesterday, and took some pics which I'll post when I get a chance.

Re: the lift blocks for the trailing arms: going to be an interesting job. The Scorpion lift is really a bit of a shortcut in this regard, and having had a very close look I understand why.

The surface of the trailing arm mount, and the surface of the rail that it mounts to, are not flat. there is a gradual step up from the rear of the trailing arm mount to the front. This will take some precise machining, with a fair bit of trial and error I think. Anyway, Carrera Motors are onto it, and will talk to me later.

In terms of reinforcing the rail, we have decided to cut a hole in the floor of the vehicle under the back seat to get into the rail, rather than cut the rail from below. This will eliminate the need to weld the rail, instead will put a U shaped reinforcement inside the rail.

Also decided that while the rear is out of the vehicle, including the diff, I'll upgrade the diff mounting bushes to norlathane. Should reduce drivetrain backlash a bit, but it just makes sense to change the bushes becuase the old ones are over 10 years old.

Nachaluva: what do you mean by "tie the front and rear blocks together"?
 
Very glad she's getting repaired :biggrin:

I totally agree with you bout the lift blocks on the trailing arms...they would rock back & forth causing metal fatigue, exaggerated by them covering a smaller area than the original plate. I plan on using an OEM plate as a jig to make up a 10mm plate to spread the load plus I'll also tie the front & rear blocks together to prevent them rocking. Just gotta clear out the garage & get the mig going again....I think your idea of reinforcing the rail is a good one ;)

I planned on using the OEM mount as a jig too but I couldn't get it to come off the trailing arm.
 
Ok, finally some pics of the car and the damage.

here's one of it with no rear end: everything from the talishaft back is gone, including the fuel tank.

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and another from the rear

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Now to the damage. here is where the trailing arm bolts were ripped out from the rail on the right hand side:

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and here's a view of the same on the left side, but not as bad:

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When I get a chance, I'll post some video of what it was like limping out of the bush with that damage.
 
^ that's what I reckon D generate. They are scorpion lift blocks, and I have an engineering certificate for their installation.

Suffice to say, as I said in my earlier post, we will be improving on this. I'll be aiming to cover the whole surface area of the trailing arm mounting plate.
 
Yeah with the bigger footprint like mine (at least 4 times the size you had) I doubt you would have had anywhere near the damage of what look like 25X25X25 blocks...........way too unstable and allowing the bolts to sway back and forth over time weakening the chassis base and it's not exactly a flat surface either, piss poor design for that part of the car in my opinion even though it is engineered.
 
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^ Can't disagree with any of that.

Anyway, we have progress.

Plates now mounted and car will start being reassembled tomorrow.

Unfortunately, my suspension guy has gone overseas at short notice, so the strut mod will have to wait until he gets back.

here are some pics of the repair to the chassis rails. Looks pretty bomb proof.

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I am told that the vehicle should be on the road on Wednesday.
 
Nachaluva: what do you mean by "tie the front and rear blocks together"?

No wonder they pulled out with those pissy little blocks, I used 50X25mm bar on all points where strength was needed.

I'll be aiming to cover the whole surface area of the trailing arm mounting plate.

way too unstable and allowing the bolts to sway back and forth over time weakening the chassis base

Sorry, dont seem to log on much these days... :(
Anyway, well answered by DGen & Dulagarl, thats what I plan, to use as much of the mounting plate surface area as possible to spread the load, plus weld RHS from the front blocks to the back to almost eliminate the blocks/bolts rocking back & forth. If you consider the massive forces involved under severe load, it would be impossible to eliminate movement, the idea is to limit it. So I'm thinking oversize blocks plus welded together plus 10mm plate base on the rail side of the blocks. This would be welded to the blocks to spread the load without deformation, & could be easily fabricated using sections welded together. A bit of stuffing around, but I got the idea after seeing El Freddo's chassis cracks near his blocks. The idea being to over-engineer it...reinforcing the rails would be the ultimate...yours look pretty solid! :lildevil:
 
In the end we extended the arms by 25mm by cutting 4 arms and re-joining with a fillet where the gap is and the blocks were taken out altogether, the wheels sat perfectly.
 
Yeah with the bigger footprint like mine (at least 4 times the size you had) I doubt you would have had anywhere near the damage of what look like 25X25X25 blocks...........way too unstable and allowing the bolts to sway back and forth over time weakening the chassis base and it's not exactly a flat surface either, piss poor design for that part of the car in my opinion even though it is engineered.

actually they are 40x40x40, but still a problem. less of a problem with the reinforced rails, but I'll still be making a single block for the whole area of the suspension arm mounting plate.

Interested in some pics of your modified arm though.
 
Back on the road. First thing I noticed was that the low fuel light now works. This is because the fuel tank was cleaned out and sensors checked. Good sign really. At the same time new fuel pump was installed. Will be interesting to test the capacity of the repaired and refurbished tank, and the characteristics of the new fuel pump.

Motor does seem to be smoother after the fuel pump replacement and tank clean.

Next week work starts on the new heavier rear struts, serviceable inserts and custom springs. Unfortunately, can't seem to source the Koni strut inserts that Kevin put into "legs" made of reinforced and extended Tokico OEM strut bodies for the rear end of his. We'll be doing much the same design on the leg or carrier for the Koni insert, but we'll have to find an alternative Koni insert because the part numbers Kevin installed are no longer available. I am convinced that there will be something and that it will be adjustable. We aim to match the characteristics of this strut insert to modified springs. These will be a progressive spring to allow a softer spring with light loads, and a heavier spring when loaded.

This is all going to cost some coin, but the rear struts (KYB excel G) were bent in the pig and goat incident, and that's the second set bent since I had the car. They've been straightened to allow it to be driven short distances while unloaded, but they have to go and I'm not buying another set.

When this rear mod is done, I"ll list every mod done since I got it. It's adding up to a bit, but it's always developing. Consider it a prototype for the ultimate SF series off roader / tourer.

Should be back to TruTrack on Monday.
 
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Well Dulagarl.. all I can say is.. it sux to be Subaruless... I am hoping that the Subaru Feng Shoo is all good 4 you from now on :-)
 
Good to hear she is up and running mate :biggrin:
I can't wait too see what your new springs are like... are King custom making them.
While my Dobinsons are 248lbs compared to Kings 186lbs (rear heavy duty) they work well with a load but give a firm ride onroad which I don't like. How ever I don't have money flying around to change them and they do what I want with a load anyway.. :iconwink: :ebiggrin:

You sure you can't do the same as Kevin with the struts. I've looked into this myself and it is very doable.
 
Really great to hear she's back on the road :monkeydance:

The springs sound good, the best of both worlds, if you can get adjustable inserts even better! Have you thought about longer springs & struts to give a suspension lift Patrol/Landcruiser style instead of the rear strut blocks? You get extra lift as well as extra wheel travel! :lildevil:
 
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