Offroad Driving Tips

Gero OB said:
I'd imagine yours now with larger tyres should be much better in the soft stuff as long as you have ground clearance. the little 13s i had were not the best.
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It's standard, but the 14s made a little difference, I would say that the lowest point is probably around 6" from the ground - this is the exhaust. but that's good to know that you were getting through sand on 13s!
 
Thinking of heading up to stockton next weekend.
Can I clarify on a couple of things...

1. With some particular clutch management, I should be fine in the sand, even in the soft stuff
2. I should be pulling my ABS fuse before heading on the beach? Is this gonna beep at me the whole time like my seat belt warning?
3. On my XT low profiles, I should be heading down to 18psi. What psi allows for some more wild driving in the soft stuff, without the chance of losing the tyre off the rim?
 
1. yes
2. Yes and no.
3. at least down to 18 but with low profile I wouldn't go lower than 14 unless really stuck. I would not be doing any wild driving with low profile tyres on sand and especially if you are a novice on sand :iconwink:

Have fun but be careful!

Have a read here too: https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f102/tips-driving-sand-18231/
 
Thanks Kevin,

So are the stock XT geo 17's even more susceptible to rolling off the rim than say the dueller 16's?

Didnt someone mention there is an inner bead that is built into the tyre or something to prevent modern day tubeless tyres from doing exactly that? Or is that more for if your very slowly rolling, rather than moving at 30-40km/hr and swerving.
 
Gidday Ricker

Ricker said:
Thanks Kevin,

So are the stock XT geo 17's even more susceptible to rolling off the rim than say the dueller 16's?
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Duellers are a heavier sidewall tyre (IIRC ... ). A heavier sidewall tyre is always going to be less susceptible to turning on the rim than a softer sidewall tyre. Also less susceptible to rolling off the rim, but see below.


Didnt someone mention there is an inner bead that is built into the tyre or something to prevent modern day tubeless tyres from doing exactly that?
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The thing you are talking about is built into the rim, not so much the tyre. However, all modern tyres have a stronger bead than was common in my youth.

All rims made since about 1960 are called "double sided safety rims", and have a hump between the edge of the rim and the centre on both inside and outside inner parts of the rim that are the right width to hold the tyre beads in place on each side of the rim, even when fully deflated.

These rims are NOT designed to hold the tyre in place when silly loads are being placed on it (swerving on sand, for example :iconwink: ... ).
They are designed to allow you to safely stop the vehicle in the case of a tyre suddenly going completely flat (rare these days, IME), and also to prevent the tyre being flung off the rim at speed in this case.

Ever wondered why all modern tyre fitting shops use hydraulic tyre levers?
Try removing or fitting a modern tyre manually and you will quickly discover why!
Tyre beads are very strong.

Serious off-road vehicles use steel split rims, which allow for relatively easy removal and refitting of tyres in the field. It can still be very difficult to break the tyre bead to rim seal if the tyre has been on the rim for a long time ... VERY difficult ...

Or is that more for if your very slowly rolling, rather than moving at 30-40km/hr and swerving.
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Yes. See above ... :rotfl:
 
Never be afraid to get out and walk where you are about to drive.

Carry a folding shovel (or a real one). This can also be used to judge depth of that innocent looking puddle that is just oh so tempting.

Learn how to use 3,2,1 properly.

A can of wd-40 if your wires get wet.

If it is truly a dusty drive, a spare air cleaner

Have a co pilot that can help you around obsticles.

Try to drive with a group.

Don't go at night if alone.

Practice traction control. On an auto you can lightly drag the brakes to transfer power between wheels. This makes up for a lack of any lsd on the car.

Spare cell phone battery (sorry Iphone folks your on your own).

A brain. The car is replacable and you are not.
 
And never be embarrassed to walk away either :cool:
I've done it & lived to 4WD another day :)

Better to do that than be totally FUBAR :iconwink:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Too right, Mr T

mr turbo said:
And never be embarrassed to walk away either :cool:
I've done it & lived to 4WD another day :)

Better to do that than be totally FUBAR :iconwink:

Regards
Mr Turbo
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If we had the chance, I would never have tackled the Phasmid Track.

IF we had walked it first, we would never even have thought about "driving" it.

We were just flaming lucky that no one was hurt. There was one moment when Phiz & I were trying to help NL get traction uphill, and I slipped and fell. But for Phiz, and bloody good luck, I could have been under NL's car.

Wouldn't have done much for me ... :(

Nor for NL, I suspect ... :( :( :cry: :shake:
 
Here's a funny question. I often drive down the same loose and curvy dirt road. I'm never worried about bottoming out, but traction is a real concern, I'm on stock tires and the dirt is quite gravelly and generally the worst in the corners. I've noticed a few times, when giving it a fair bit of gas around these corners (for fun), the front end seems to loose traction, and the back wheels just push the car in a straight line. I've fixed the issue each time by letting off the gas and things straighten out.

I'm sure this is driver error, and I've stopped doing this for the most part, as I don't want to end up in the ditch, wrong lane or worse. I'm quite curious to know what's going on when this happens though. Is it a matter of the front wheels loosing traction, and the rear pushing through? I've noticed the same kind of behaviour starting from a stop in slippery snow, where the car seemed to get traction, but little steering input/ability. (The best was one time I thought was stuck turning around on a snowy dirt road, when the forester did get traction it *really* pushed forward!)

This is my first AWD car - my old FWD cars behaved quite differently. I realize I was being silly in the corners, but I'm just wondering if other people have encountered this, and what the "right" way to take a corner a bit faster would be.
 
Sounds like "oversteer" which is common. What is happening I think is that the front wheels are turned too much and, coupled with acceleration which is unweighting the front wheels, you are simply sliding in the direction of the momentum of the vehicle, i.e. straight ahead. Try a little brake just before you hit the corner to transfer some weight to the front, then accelerate through the bend - it takes some practice to get the balance right.

I'm sure Rally and the other members who are well experienced at high speed dirt will have a few tips.
 
Kevin said:
I'm sure Rally and the other members who are well experienced at high speed dirt will have a few tips.
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:lildevil:

bobbotron, I've found that too. This is my 1st AWD. Sometimes, I've nailed tha corner and been amazed how well its driven out with so much grip and stability. Other times, not...
Still not really sure what I'm doing differently. I think a big part of it is as Kevin says, brake before to get some weight over the front wheels. Would like Rally's input, as well as others.
 
i think what you are experiencing is understeer rather then oversteer. this is common in front wheel drive based cars, were the front wheels will be turned but the car will keep driving straight.
my tips would be to enter the corner off the power, this will trasfer more wieght over the front. then if you want to have a bit of put you foot down about half way through and the back end should come around.
otherwise try the ol flick for the entry of the corner, although this is more of a race style then on public roads.
 
Yes, that would be understeer. Lifting off will tighten it all up, but be careful as you may get more than you want and then you will realise overtseer can be more frightening than understeer. My avatar has my car with oversteer. Reduce your entry speed and/or pick up the throttle a bit later and less aggressively. Understeer is not limited to FWD or AWD cars. In fact, it is built in a bit in almost all cars from the factory.
 
Yep under steer. I've found the easiest way to oversteer is to turn into the corner while still hard on the brakes. My car begins to oversteer and then I can carry it through the corner under power.

Any attempt at power over has usually netted me under steer.

The handbrake is good for cheap thrills.

None of this on public roads of course.
 
I would either find a paddock with nothing to hit or trip over and try things yourself at moderate speed, or better still get some expert tuition. The Forrie's handbrake activates the rear wheels. Do not apply power with the handbrake on in a standard Forrie- or most other Subarus. I have some videos I am trying to find which may assist.
 
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