Offroad Driving Tips

There is also a fuse you can pull on some models; same circuit as handbrake so the handbrake light stays on but is a good reminder that ABS is disabled.
 
Here's a little tip I learned of an old bloke a couple of months ago, if you have an open or even a viscous diff and are in a sticky position......Bogged......Pull your hand brake on a little so it loads up both back wheels, this should even out the pressure on the drive shafts and help you get out a bit easier.

Using the handbrake or footbrake (so called 'driving through the brakes') to prevent cross-axle wheelspin is an old wives tale and does not work for any differential type except helical or 'torque-sensing' units.

To 'even out' the torque in the driveshafts by braking will help in the case of torque-sensing diffs as they are designed with a specific torque ratio (for example 4:1) which will force enough torque to the driveshaft of the wheel with traction to move the vehicle provided enough torque is applied (by braking) to the driveshaft of the spinning wheel.

However, with other types of differential, you will achieve nothing by braking as just as much braking force is being applied to the wheel with traction as to the spinning wheel and non-torque-sensing differentials have no torque-biassing ability to overcome this. In fact, in the case of a viscous limited slip diff, braking will hinder its usefulness as it relies on significant difference in the rotation speed of the two driveshafts in order to send torque to the wheel with traction. (That said, the viscous limited slip diffs as fitted to the rear of some Subarus are barely effective anyway...)

The braking applied by electronic traction control systems differs fundamentally from that applied by the hand or foot brake in that it can be applied selectively to individual wheels. This is extremely useful because it means (helpful) braking can be applied to spinning wheels without (unhelpful) braking being applied to wheels with traction.
 
Sorry to disagree, but I can say with absolute certainty that driving through the brakes with an auto on steep, slippery descents is absolutely the way to go. Not only does it aid traction but also provides steering stability / direction and is by far the safest way to handle those conditions.
 
Descending may be different to other circumstances, in that momentum will be maintained due to gravity, even if one wheel loses traction.
This is distinctly different to situations in mud / water crossings or when climbing, where loss of traction = loss of any forward movement.
 
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Sorry to disagree, but I can say with absolute certainty that driving through the brakes with an auto on steep, slippery descents is absolutely the way to go. Not only does it aid traction but also provides steering stability / direction and is by far the safest way to handle those conditions.

Hi Kevin - Happy to agree with you that driving through the brakes is useful for descents in autos.

In saying it is not useful on the other hand, I'm referring to the technique's use to prevent cross axle wheelspin when traversing obstacles which is the context in which the topic was originally raised and also what I specified in my first sentence.

Using the handbrake or footbrake (so called 'driving through the brakes') to prevent cross-axle wheelspin is an old wives tale and does not work for any differential type except helical or 'torque-sensing' units.
 
I did some off roading recently and I was glad I had my little gerber shovel, to dig my way out of a stuck spot... (had to dig a path)

I dont have any other tips to give atm, ive only back country drove a little bit.

Does anyone have know how on shifting (auto)?
 
^ that's correct. It is recommended that you do not wrap your thumbs around the steering wheel because, if you do experience backlash, the spokes could break your thumbs.

Or worse than a break the spokes can hyper extend your thumbs. Very painful and longer recover time for sure. This rule applies in icy conditions too.
 
My 2c for sand driving after driving around fraser island, inskip point, etc and now Western Australia. please note lift and tyre combo effect the cars ability a lot so verying level of right foot comitment is required to float across the top. examples are from what i've driven/owned.

Stock L series manual:
- 2nd low range was good for sandy tracks, on/off beach access
- needs a level of comitment (right foot) you generally have one shot at it because once she starts to go down your history
- don't down shift to 1st if it's starting to bog down in 2nd STOP otherwise u'll just dig a deeper hole! (I've tried)

Stock sf forester manual:
- 1st low range for on/off beach acess tracks (2nd is too high, tried that)
- get bash plate otherwise it WILL get torn off on the fist deeper sand track (was my mates car)
- same comitment as L series required

outback auto (bash plate, spring lift and center diff lock)
- turn c.diff lock on
- select D and putt along
- if she starts to bog down, select reverse and have another attempt with a bit more pace.

General tips:
- before stoping try and look for some firm level sand to stop on
- as mentioned try to roll to a stop with all wheels facing straight
- if stoped in softer sand you may need to reverse a little so you can start forwards on some firmer sand
- if you've attempted a soft section/track and the car begins to loose momentum/bog down, stop! depending on softness/car you may be able to revers out, if not the hole will be smaller to get out of
- if there is multiple tracks, say on/off the beach, there is no problem getting out and having a quick look, and pick one that suits your subies wheel track (followed a bus once in the L series, didn't get far!)
- select a gear and stick to it, i've listed what i found worked for me 97% of the time, i havn't driven up big dunes mind you. other 4x4's it can work for but i find once a STOCK subie is bogging down, to continue forwards bears little fruit
- if driving a sandy rutted track with a bend, you'll need to keep momentum but a quick backing off will let the car follow the track instead of plowing wide. takes some practice because it can get u stuck!
- to add to the above, greater throttle control and less steering can bring a smoother ride/ finess
- if you get stuck, rubber floor mats/ cargo liner, home front door mat (the ones with big holes) can give you some firm ground to start on once you've dug yourself out. (cheaper than maxtracks)
- if stuck use a push, it's amazing what a few blokes on the back or front of a car can do (may have to upload video of 20 odd blokes using a snatch strap to pull a 3ton truck up a muddy slope in fiji)

:raz: Most of all, get out there have fun, and lern your cars abilities. :raz:

on dirt:
i found my vitara liked a few clicks of the hand brake on steep decents, low 1st and occasional use of the brake (no clutch)

if u stall on steep accent, select reverse, feet OFF brake and clutch and key start. will lurch breifly then decend controlled (NOT ROLL)
 
on dirt:
i found my vitara liked a few clicks of the hand brake on steep decents, low 1st and occasional use of the brake (no clutch)

One thing I'll mention in relation to this: test this somewhere safe before you try it. Each vehicle responds differently, and if you've got an ABS-equipped model it could result in loss of control depending on the conditions.

My Cherokee (when it was still stock) responded well to this; my Forester doesn't. Both had ABS, but the Forester loves to get on the ABS early; the Jeep didn't even notice I was doing this. I was using the handbrake trick this summer on some of the trails in Moab, and the best way I can describe the effect is that it made the ABS even more hyper-sensitive than it already was. Not something I wanted to find out on a steep downhill trail covered in gravel with a nice sharp bend at the bottom... :eek:
 
Gidday casm & Gero

on dirt:
i found my vitara liked a few clicks of the hand brake on steep decents, low 1st and occasional use of the brake (no clutch)


One thing I'll mention in relation to this: test this somewhere safe before you try it. Each vehicle responds differently, and if you've got an ABS-equipped model it could result in loss of control depending on the conditions.

Yeah. My Fox ABS brakes are suicidal on downhill, slippery loose surfaces ... :shake:.


My Cherokee (when it was still stock) responded well to this; my Forester doesn't. Both had ABS, but the Forester loves to get on the ABS early; the Jeep didn't even notice I was doing this. I was using the handbrake trick this summer on some of the trails in Moab, and the best way I can describe the effect is that it made the ABS even more hyper-sensitive than it already was. Not something I wanted to find out on a steep downhill trail covered in gravel with a nice sharp bend at the bottom... :eek:

With my Fox, I intend to have a "special" fuse for the ABS that I will keep in the top dash storage in a ziplock bag. One that has been "introduced" to the terminals of the battery ...

This saves the embarrassing situation under certain circumstances of "someone" finding that the ABS fuse is missing ...

Remember to swap back later.

I have found that one can prevent the ABS from activating by using normal impulse braking (tapping and releasing the brake pedal rapidly). This does not give the ABS time to release and then lock, losing any semblance of directional stability along the way.
 
If you fit a disabled fuse I would think you will get a warning light on the dash.
However, nothing to say it didn't blow at the time...
Also, the light is a reminder to fit a working fuse.
 
If you fit a disabled fuse I would think you will get a warning light on the dash.
However, nothing to say it didn't blow at the time...
Also, the light is a reminder to fit a working fuse.

Quite right, mate ... ;) :D
 
With my Fox, I intend to have a "special" fuse for the ABS that I will keep in the top dash storage in a ziplock bag. One that has been "introduced" to the terminals of the battery ...

If you fit a disabled fuse I would think you will get a warning light on the dash.
If I'm correct in saying so, you'll actually get 2x warning lights on the dash ;)
One will be for the ABS & the other one will be for the cruise control :iconwink:
Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong though :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Gidday Mr T

If I'm correct in saying so, you'll actually get 2x warning lights on the dash ;)
One will be for the ABS & the other one will be for the cruise control :iconwink:
Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong though :)

Regards
Mr Turbo

LOL!

Not likely to be using the cruise control in that situation either :rotfl: ...
 
One thing I'll mention in relation to this: test this somewhere safe before you try it. Each vehicle responds differently, and if you've got an ABS-equipped model it could result in loss of control depending on the conditions.

My Cherokee (when it was still stock) responded well to this; my Forester doesn't. Both had ABS, but the Forester loves to get on the ABS early; the Jeep didn't even notice I was doing this. I was using the handbrake trick this summer on some of the trails in Moab, and the best way I can describe the effect is that it made the ABS even more hyper-sensitive than it already was. Not something I wanted to find out on a steep downhill trail covered in gravel with a nice sharp bend at the bottom... :eek:

good to note casm, my vitara had no abs, interesting to hear how bad it interfears off road, haven't taken the outback on anything more than fire roads or sand neither required significant braking
 
Stock L series manual:
- 2nd low range was good for sandy tracks, on/off beach access
- needs a level of comitment (right foot) you generally have one shot at it because once she starts to go down your history
- don't down shift to 1st if it's starting to bog down in 2nd STOP otherwise u'll just dig a deeper hole! (I've tried)

This is great, thanks
 
and ----- another warning light for the handbrake
 
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