Rally's MY04 Forrie- Poverty Pack special

Purchased second hand. Rear diff and instrument cluster replaced under warranty. First change was to fit CB UHF GME radio. Car has externally mounted windscreen aerial bracket. Just purchased set of new KYB shock absorbers- the originals have had it- will install when they arrive. Next step is to replace standard steel rims with MY99 WRX rims. Then sump guard and driving lights.
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Thinking about it. 4.444 diff ratios might be a good option for you. one it will help with the power problems. Will also give slightly better low range.
 
Nope. I have a mate who has a number of rally rims and tyres I can use. I have been service crew on his car previously. (There is a reason why Rally is my username). Might even end up buying 6 of them. Only drawback is they are noisy. But at least I have a better chance of getting home. Next trip is end of the month, should have the tyres by then.
 
At the expense of cruising though. This car is being built for long distance travelling, so I want it to cruise nicely. A better low range would be better for me I think than a shorter final drive. Thanks for your input, I do appreciate it.
 
I believe you can swap the 5th gear ratio to the GT forester ratio and you will retain basically the same gearing in 5th.

Also i remember swapping the 2.92 FD out of my old V6 commodore to a 3.45 FD from an SS commodore. Was the best thing i ever did for the car, Had better fuel econ every where honestly and drove better.

We are talking about a less then 10% change so if you do 2500rpm at 110km it wont even be 2750rpm be like 2700. Sometime as was the case for me these changes can improve econ as it puts your engine it a power band where it is happier.

I remember my commodore did about 1750-1800rpm in 6th at 110km chaning to the 3.45 FD meant that it was just over 2000rpm and econ improved as it was more in it's torque band.

Just a thought.
 
I think L series low or even forester low with the diffs you have now would be adequate. Also L series low wont fit with 4.44's without serious shaving down result in weakening.

IMO people downplay the affect of power (more so torque). We went on an offroad trip with me driving a borrowed GT Foz with HTs, there were two lifted SGs with ATs and Tazas foz. This was in beach/dunes.

The GT had by far the easiest time of it.

For rock crawling IMO the 2.5 with 1.19 is just better than a 2.0 with SF low range. Its all about balance otherwise as Rally said one big upgrade will just highlight the weakness of other aspects of the car.

2.5 with 4.44 and SF low, or 2.5 with stock diff and L series low seem the perfect combination. Supercharge the 2.5 and you have a very hard to beat subi offroader that will be better than most stock- lightly modded 4x4s on sand and better than pretty much any 4x4 on the rocks.

EDIT: Thinking about it, all this talk of what beats what is losing what offroading subis is all about. Its about fun!
 
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Second battery installed, along with the controller for it and the solar. Battery is mounted in rear passenger side footwell immediately behind front passengers seat. Controller is mounted under front passenger seat. Junction box is mounted on the side of the battery box, to run fridge and external light, and for plugging solar into. All pretty straight forward- Subaru even leave a clip alongside the front door sill for the wiring to secure it!
 
What sort of second battery did you go for? There's so many new types now... some are very sensitive to charging voltage...
 
Yep pics please. I mounted mine in the boot with a removable tray. I have fixed an anderson plug next to my cigarette lighter in the boot for it too. I like the behind the seat idea though.
 
Come on, Rally.

You know the drill ... :iconwink:

:mob: :ttiwop

specially for those of us contemplating doing something like this ourselves ...

Plus:

Working drawings;

Part numbers;

Suppliers;

Costs;

... :lol: :cool:
 
AGM 100Ah battery. Pics when I can. Drawings? What drawings? Controller is a CTEK 250S Dual
 
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I ran 14mm2 cable from the cranking battery, through a 60A circuit breaker through the firewall and along the door sill to a second 60A circuit breaker. This would be a fail safe to prevent current running from the second battery should the cable short out. It would then run to the controller, and from there on to the second battery via an Anderson plug. The controller also has an input from the solar panel via one of three plugs mounted alongside the battery. An Anderson plug also connects at the other end of the solar panel. The second battery powers the other 2 outlets, one of which is for the fridge, the other for external lighting.







 
Thanks for all that, Rally. Much appreciated :ebiggrin:.

Certainly gives me some ideas on how to proceed.
 
Very nice :cool:

The CTek looks excellent & those portable solar panels are a great idea.

Behind the passenger seat is great for weight balance but is a bit limiting for rear passengers. How easily removed is it if necessary?

Great install Rally :monkeydance:
 
I don't think I've had many rear seat passengers- for me it is not a concern. Probably take about 5-10 mins to remove- a tad longer to re-install.
 
Thanks for the pics Rally :raz:

As they say, a picture tells a thousand words :)

Well done mate :ebiggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
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