A New Trailer for the Ratbag ...

Gidday Folks

This has been an epic in the making!

[EDIT]

For a distillation of the design factors that I eventually came up with for my trailer and tent, see this post and the following post.

The fitting and commissioning of my camper trailer tent is in a separate thread, here.

[end edit]

My 7x4 trailer is just over 30 years old.
The tyres are also 30 y.o. ... 165x13.
The wheels are possibly 20 years older than that; probably Holden rims, I don't know.

About 10~13 years ago, I had the ladder frame replaced with 2x1" structural box. I also had the floor and half way up the sides replaced with 16 gauge galvanised steel.

The front has been converted to a drop front.

The spare wheel holder has mostly rusted through, and needs replacement.

The wheel bearings, axle, hubs and springs are in good serviceable condition.

The trailer tows straight and true at all speeds (up to over 130 km/h).

It really needs 3x new wheels and tyres, and an urgent replacement of the spare wheel holder bar.

After that, it needs some love and affection; some minor repairs that any competent handyman with a welder can do; some elbow grease with a wire brush and sand paper, and a repaint.

Beyond me, and even if it weren't, I cannot fit 16x6.5" Subaru wheels on it without replacing the axle; hubs; mud guards - you get the drift. Cost more for me to have someone else do all this than a new, purpose-built trailer!!

I have found someone this arvo who has helped me source proper hubs to fit my Subie steel wheels. Proper clearance. No extra over 'standard' hubs for the hubs, or the axle. This was a BIG hurdle!!

So. 6x4 box trailer with 18~20" sides, and a locking lid and 16x6.5" Subie wheels.

The company can do the whole job; including water/fuel jerry can holders; tool box; side mount spare wheel; side opening steel lid; gas bottle holder - including locking brackets all over the place.

Judging from the trailers under construction on the floor, they are not into making crap! Their "basic duty" trailer makes most "heavy duty" trailers I have looked at look lightly built ...

Have had a rough guesstimate. Will get a proper quote from them next week.

To be continued - as the story unfolds ...
 
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Click to expand...
Tying the wheels on ...

Gidday Folks

Couple of shots showing the security cable method of making it very hard to move my trailer. Patently obviously, the crappy lock is the weakest part of this. ANY decent bolt cutters, even small ones, would fall through the shackle of this lock. I will get a couple of heavy shackle padlocks for these.

Even very big bolt cutters will not significantly damage the cable.
Part of this system is to also deny potential trailer-borrowers from attaching a vehicle to the trailer. If they could do this, they could rock it back and forth until the lock or cable broke.

Note also the security lock wheel nut. These are the same pattern as the ones on Roo2. Again, any determined person can get these off.

Both of these security measures will only prevent casual, opportunistic thieves. They make it easier for the crooks to steal someone else's stuff, rather than mine ...

You can also see some of the rust "melanomas" that they have painted over the top of. What can one expect for $180 for the respray? I reckon they have done very good job, for the money.

E-30_JAK_2012-_5067497_Ew.jpg


E-30_JAK_2012-_5067501_Ew.jpg
 
Trailer looks great Ratbag!
 
Gidday Aware

aware said:
Trailer looks great Ratbag!
Click to expand...

Thanks, mate. Tribute to the work of Jimi, Mark and Kraus. They did a pretty good job of translating into reality what I wanted to achieve.

Ended up costing about half the price of a new one built to the same standards, including the hubs and wheel studs for Subaru wheels and tyres.
That latter was extremely important to me, and was the one thing none of the others really wanted to do. They all wanted to charge me a small fortune extra for the axle, hubs and wheel studs, even though they were no additional cost (compared with Holden/Falcon hubs and studs) when I bought them direct from the trailer parts manufacturer!

Sure looks a million bucks compared with what it was like :ebiggrin: :ebiggrin: :ebiggrin: .
 
Ratbag said:
...hubs and wheel studs for Subaru wheels and tyres. ...
no additional cost (compared with Holden/Falcon hubs and studs) when I bought them direct from the trailer parts manufacturer!
Click to expand...

Have been thinking of doing this up-grade for my camper trailer.
  • where did you get yours?
  • what bearings do the hubs take?
 
Gidday Barry

How's the keeping off the fags going, mate?

Barry said:
Have been thinking of doing this up-grade for my camper trailer.
  • where did you get yours?
Click to expand...
  • Melbourne trailer parts
    Wells Rd
    Chelsea Heights Victoria
    (03) 9772-2333
  • what bearings do the hubs take?
    Click to expand...

I think that they are "standard" size tapered roller bearings.
Same as their other hubs, anyway. A special hub is needed, as the Subaru rims have a slightly smaller hole than Holden/Falcon, and no one except MTP make hubs to fit them (other makers turn down 'standard' hubs to fit; thereby weakening them ... ).

The BIG problem is that you will also need to have a new axle, as the offset for Subaru rims is very different from Holden/Falcon rims.

I went for a 40 mm square axle (replaced a round one with a diameter of about 35~40 mm), so had to get new U-bolts, fish plates, as well. Not that these cost a lot.

If I were you, I would get a nearby trailer repair place to measure your trailer and rims and order the new axle and parts, as I took mine to MTP, and they got the measurements right, then specified the wrong length axle for the rim offset ... Doh!!

Make certain that they specify the correct size metric stud length, thread pitch and size. MTP managed to press Holden studs into my hubs. Then they had to press them out, and press Subaru studs in ...

Since MTP do not carry any stock of metric wheel nuts, you will have to pick up a handful at your local Subaru wrecker. I paid a dollar each for mine ...

Also, first catch your rims ... I bought a matching alloy rim ($195) to use as my car spare; bought two Forester steel rims from Brett (had two of the P7s mounted on them); and had one of the remaining P7s mounted on the (non-matching) steel rim from the car. It is now the trailer spare.

The axle, hubs, U-bolts, fish plates and wheel nuts cost a bit under $400 (actually, I also bought two new gates as well - $38 each, and it all cost under $400).
 
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Just some small bits of work done.

Cut some plastic plugs to fit the open ends of the various bits of box tube. The tube is metric ... Of course, the plugs only come in Imperial sizes! We only went metric in 1966! Holden and Falcon wheel nuts are STILL Imperial sizes and threads!

By cutting across both diagonals of the plugs, I gained sufficient decrease in size to be able to force the plugs into the tubes. Did this after I had sprayed the inside of all the tubes with RP77 to slow the metal moths down a bit.

Also got a can of Hammertone spray paint to touch up some of the minor bits that Jimi and the lads missed ...

We are in amongst the nightmare of having all our gutters replaced - the house is c. 1975 and architect designed, Merchant Builders for those who know the Melbourne building scene. Very nice house ... BUT the gutters were woefully inadequate (characteristic of most architect designed houses ... ), and concealed. The longest one was around 25 m long, with a downpipe at each end, and 140 x 90 mm. Now 250 x 150 mm ... None of the gutters are concealed any more. Open at the bottom (to gain the extra depth). Downpipes and storm water drain points also needed a bit of re-designing (by me ... ). The guttering layout is not simple, either.

Half the upstairs roof needed to be replaced, and will be extended to cover the quite large upstairs veranda (about 7.5 x 3.5 m).

All up cost will be nearly as much as we spent on Roo2!!

Glad that Jason is doing the work, not me ...

Am I a little OT? :lol: :rotfl:

Anyway, major maintenance work that needed to be done before I can go away anywhere ... (am allowed to ... :ebiggrin:).

Back to the trailer. I still need to fit some folding legs at the back, and centre the axle properly.
 
Ratbag said:
Am I a little OT? :lol: :rotfl:
Click to expand...
Just a little :poke: but hey, it's your thread so no drama's at all mate :lol::ebiggrin::lol:

Ratbag said:
Back to the trailer. I still need to fit some folding legs at the back, and centre the axle properly.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you have a bit or work ahead of you Ratbag :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Ratbag said:
Just some small bits of work done.

Cut some plastic plugs to fit the open ends of the various bits of box tube. The tube is metric ... Of course, the plugs only come in Imperial sizes! We only went metric in 1966! Holden and Falcon wheel nuts are STILL Imperial sizes and threads!
Click to expand...
Actually we went Decimal in Feb? 66 and we went Metric in June? 1974, I remember both well.;)
 
Gidday DG

d_generate said:
Actually we went Decimal in Feb? 66 and we went Metric in June? 1974, I remember both well.;)
Click to expand...

Fair enough :).

In "backward" Queensland, we learned the metric system when I was in primary school (mid-1950s ... ), so I am more than a little vague about when the rest of Oz may have done this, or when it was adopted at a Federal level ... :iconwink: :lol: :rotfl:
 
Some trailer pics with stickers

Finally had some fine weather a week or two ago, so put my ORS stickers on my 'new' trailer :).

E-30_JAK_2012-_8137797_Ew.jpg


E-30_JAK_2012-_8137798_Ew.jpg


E-30_JAK_2012-_8137796_Ew.jpg
 
Looks great Ratbag :ebiggrin:
Especially with the stickers, they really set it off :biggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Gidday ST & Mr T

stilson said:
Lookin good John!

Is than no plate plate hinged? Looks a bit prone to damage.
Click to expand...

Yes mate, it is. Nearly 90° in either direction.

mr turbo said:
Looks great Ratbag :ebiggrin:
Especially with the stickers, they really set it off :biggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo
Click to expand...

Thanks fellas.
Certainly improves the aerodynamics when travelling backwards at high speed ...

:poke:

:lol:

:rotfl:
 
Thanks everyone :biggrin:.

I must have missed these the first time around .... CRAFT disease?

Today I have (at last ... ) stuck weather sealing strip around the front & rear gates and the lid.

It is booked to get its registration plate at the end of next week.

What a performance! Make-work for public servants??
No wonder that it's taken me many months to actually get the appointment.

Told 4 different things by 5 different people over the last 4 months ...

Then had to get an "R" number, as the trailer was originally made well before compliance plates for trailers became mandatory in 1988.
I rang one person who said that the trailer would have to be inspected (at my expense ... ), even though the VicRoads web site states categorically that this is not necessary, and that the "R" number can be obtained for light trailers can be obtained by ringing VicRoads. This call took 22 minutes ... .
Hung up.
Waited 2 minutes until that person would be engaged on another query.
Rang back. Explained to the new person what the first person had told me. He agreed with me, and I had the "R" number within about 3 minutes ...

Finally, I had to write up a statutory declaration that the trailer is mine, and has been for 30+ years. It was originally registered in South Australia, but not necessary after I moved here shortly after purchase.
Fortunately, I had the necessary forms on my computers from my previous businesses.
Flaming VicRoads don't even realise that such a stat. dec. is part and parcel of their own form ("Light Trailer registration pack") - one has to sign that this is the case at the bottom of the front page of the form!!

Anyway, I hope it isn't too much of a shock for the poor thing - it hasn't been registered for 30+ years. The new drawbar makes it just over the limit for Victoria. It used to be just under the length limit ...

It also needs to be registered for any interstate use, which I plan to use it for.
 
Nice Trailer, Ratbag

Bags, I have followed this thread off and on for a while. This is a nice job, Sir.

I plan to steal a number of your ideas for a cheap trailer I own in the 4X6 size, from Home Depot (a big-box lumber chain store.) I'll start with the axle and wheels mod, because I am also planning a couple of real spare tires on steelies for La Tortuga, my Forester X mt. Hopefully, I can locate a wrecked Subie as a donor of all necessary wheels.

Thanks for the great photos. Lots of food for thought.

El Pedorro
 
Gidday El P (from one SOFA member to another ... :iconwink:)

Thank you, Kind Sir.

Main thing to keep in mind is what an ex-SAS friend said to me before I started - "Having the same size wheels and tyres on towed and towing vehicle is not optional ... ". It was good advice, and I had already decided on that before I spoke to him (he lives in another State).

BTW, nothing's patented ... :poke: :rotfl:

I can also post some photos of the sealing strip I have used if that's any help. I reckon it doesn't hurt to keep the inside reasonably dry ... In some of the torrential rain we have had, no more than a few drops have penetrated, even without the weather stripping. Being towed in such conditions is another thing altogether, however.

I am still planning to fit eye-bolts to the lid so that I fit some old-fashioned roof bars I have to the top of it. I can then put my roof basket on these (for my tent). I might also need to fit some detachable gas struts to help me lift the bloody thing open after doing this ... Or a rope; or something ...

After the trailer is registered (this coming Friday), I will need to take it for a good test run to check that I have sufficient wheel articulation before the tyre hits the inside of the guard at the rear/top of the tyre. I have only got around 20 mm clearance at the rear/top.

Even with the second axle, they made it around 37 mm too bloody short (1.5"). I will be seriously upset if I have to get yet another axle made for it. Only about $120 to $130, but still ...
 
Registration achieved at last ...

Gidday Folks

Well, after 31 years of not being registered, Roo2's tag-along is now the proud possessor of a real, live, paid for number plate! :poke: :biggrin:

I attended at VicRoads, and had the second pleasant experience of my life dealing with any form of RTA ... All went along fine, and I walked out with the number plate in my grubby little hands after only 30 minutes ... :) :ebiggrin:.

Does this mean that Roo2 now has a plated rear end?

Now I can legally test drive it to make sure the wheels don't bind - the axle is about 1.5" too short IMO. There is only about 20 mm clearance between the trailer body and the inside of the tyres at rest. I would have preferred this to be about 30 to 40 mm (15 to 20 mm more rear clearance on each side), and there is sufficient room under the mudguards without any part of the tyre or rim protruding past this line, even with the axle being 20 mm longer at each end.

Anyone want to contribute their thoughts on the amount of clearance I have? Is it sufficient?
 
Actually fitted the number plate on Friday night. Bloody near killed me in the heat, and drilling through the checker-plate steel holder. Shouldn't fall off in a hurry. It has 6 big rivets holding it on.

Managed to miss all my fingers with the drill ... ;)

Tied the dangling wires up out of the way.

Today I fitted the rego label and holder. Also sprayed some metal moth food on the parts where they had missed with the spray gun.

Geez, all this being legal is a shock to the system ... :lol:
 
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