2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought
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how it looked in my yard next day
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changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's
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examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look
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so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper
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car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.
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checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back
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front grill plasti dipped to black
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how it looks in dark with some lights
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so trying to put all that on car.. not that simple as they much larger cats then oem ones. but took me about 2,5 hrs after work. and then test drive
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there us for now some weird new smell outside car maybe because they new cats still need to heat up some more.
but car drives better with new cats. well if engine was supose to have them it must be something there that ecu likes it . on 4th and 5th gears car drives and pulls better then before without cats
 
Seems like it needed some more backpressure
 
Yh i thought same as well for backpreasure.
Now still thinking put there oem heat armor maybe so it wouldnt be so visiable that it changed just recently. Im doing this for mot now and they for some stupid reason in my country they dont accept if cats are welded. No matter that they new they like cant be welded in ... whoever thought of that was not thinking straight i guess.
 
so yes at last i did it ... to see how bad those valve piston gaps are ...
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then had one problem there with one bolt , took some time ti remove that
and china made tools doest help there as well... still those only i could find in local shop at that time
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and yes those gaps are just bad ... they should be 20in 30ex ...
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now not sure what i wanna do from here just take engine to ppl and forget it they do job or remove all myself and write down all numbers and then find people who could just remove s ome meat from those pushers so i would get larger gaps.. and if nothing else is wrong there ...
i mean i did so much allready i might just go all the way and do more myself
 
The adjustments are made by using different thickness shims, not by grinding anything!

It's a bugger of a job, and if you get it wrong, you have to do it all over again.

DO NOT GET THE SHIMS MIXED UP!! You will have to measure them after disassembly, do some arithmetic, then fit the correct thickness shim for each valve. There are lots of opportunities for error. Trust me, I've done it on a shim tappet engine.
 
Well some grind here them.. with special machines not hand tools sure and not outside just inside grind.
And in real noone tell you how they do it anyway they take engine they do the job and thats it..
 
All these parts are case hardened. Grinding them will destroy the case hardening, so the ground parts will wear very rapidly.
 
I thought so too... but i asked how they do it ...they said well they can grind them ...now im not sure who to give my engine and can i trust them... hmm
 
There's always some crook who will be long gone when your engine destroys itself.

My Austin Kimberley had shim tappet adjustment. I had to do the process twice to get the gaps right. Mongrel of a job! While it was a six cylinder, it only had two valves per cylinder, not four.
 
Will be looking for people then who do it for years and others can recomend them... found couple allready... just hope piston are still ok and not burned off as i drove with those almost no gaps for some time allready..hoping for best
 
Hopefully, all will be well.

Probably needs valve reseating and grinding. The exhaust valves will have been running very hot.
 
enigne back and got back into car fast ... just need to tighten and reconnect all stuff now , so hopefully today it will start again
to put in back was just couple mins job rly by myself .. so easy .. it took more like ages to split it ..so now just need to remember where what bolts go ..haha but i allready tigthen engine to gearbox so its good there ...
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It drives much better much smooter until gearbox came out with soledoind D error again and ruined everything...but engine itself doesnt have any errors now, just i couldnt find plug for engine oil temp sensor.. so i have that error .. but rly i cant find plug for that sensors... weirdly...i have one free plug but it doesnt fit to that sensor... so yh ..where is my engine oil temp plug then... cant find it
 
wierd thing is i have one free socket black one that doesnt fit on anything there , and then that oil temp sensor need gray socket as i understood .. but then where is it ... hmm cant find any pics like of real cable where it comes from to that oil temp
but then as i put all together now i cant even put hand there its so tight full of cables and tubes ... i should look for it before i put all stuff on top i guess...
well if nothing else works i guess i will remove that cv axle and then try to look for that cable ... as from top i dont have any left gray socket or any other socket
and that gearbox solenoid .. omg so annoying ... it can work ok for week and then can be real bad for next day ... so who knows .. wish it let me test car properly now , maybe today i wont have that solenoid error... i will order it and change it ..
so its like no matter how much power engine have or how good it works .. one small gearbox solenoid can make your car just drive like sht
 
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Im not yet got it to change as weather got some colder its not popping up now for week or so..but if you push on that gearbox some more and it heats up more it pops out ... for now i have still bad co2 exhaust numbers... even with new universal cats... need to figure out that first. Maybe its some small leaks via welds...
 
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