What have you done to your car today?

temmah said:
Can you take some pics?

I installed a 160AH 12V AGM battery recently, but im starting to think i should have gone the Lithium route.
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It's a pretty simple system battery in the spare wheel well, but a Lithium battery only weighs about 12-13kg compared to the 40-50kg a 160AH one would. You do need to make sure you have a Lithium compatible charger though.
 
@SquiresSquire which CTEK model do you have; mine is a 250S and I think I have to change it if I go lithium?
 
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@Kevin the 250SE is the Lithium compatible one, it's the exact same size, just has a Temp Sender for the Lithium battery (to stop charging if the battery gets hot) and support for a smart alternators. It will also work with a normal AGM/Lead Acid battery as you can change the mode the charger runs in
 
@SquiresSquire the 250S also has the temperature sender but I think there is extra "smarts" in the 250SE in relation to charge capacity for lithium; I'll need to research further when / if I go lithium.
 
Kevin said:
@SquiresSquire the 250S also has the temperature sender but I think there is extra "smarts" in the 250SE in relation to charge capacity for lithium; I'll need to research further when / if I go lithium.
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Yep there is more smarts (hence the ability to change the mode from AGM/Lead to Lithium). Lithium is definitely the way to go for new battery setups though, much more usable power, and much lighter
 
On the topic of charging, I saw/watched/heard something the other day about alternators and lithium batteries, particularly that some alternators weren't good for lithium batteries..
Has anyone else heard anything of this? I presume the use of the correct sort of DC/DC charger would negate any power weirdness wouldn't it?
 
That's correct, the DCDC Charger handles the charging algorithim, plus most modern lithium batteries have their own internal management systems
 
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Subaxtreme sent through some progress pics of my new bar. They accidentally made and sent a Early SG one, which doesn't fit too well with the 40mm longer late SG mounts :lol1:

Went off for Sanding and paint prep yesterday, before being shipped up to me for my Smash repairer to paint and fit

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I re-cleaned my left-hand headlamp last weekend. Mine was part of a batch with inadequate butyl sealing. I didn't clean the headlights as effectively before. I also did not overkill my sealant application just like before.

Before:
dlzo3z1.jpg


Bulbs and ballast:
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After:
Iq9PFpW.jpg


Mounted:
PbFnMjp.jpg


There is some blemishing on the reflector but that is acceptable because of the amount of water it had when I purchased it.

I still used TurtleWax's silicone sealant for the outside as my January application on the right-hand headlamp is still intact as. In fact, when I was cleaning my left-hand lense, after all the brushing and scrubbing, the sealant was still there. It was only during the plastic polishing when I removed the sealant completely.
 
Changed the solenoid on the starter motor as it's been a bit iffy for a while and it pretty much gave up the ghost yesterday.
Was just going to swap the starter motor with the one from my parts car, but of course that's an automatic and they're different.
At least the solenoids are the same. :)
 
This may be useful information. I found that removing
the solenoid from the starter motor
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Requires the use of an impact driver and the right size bit. I managed to destroy 3 out of the 4 heads removing the solenoids from the starter motors.
A quick cut with the Dremel and then attacking them again with a flat head bit got them out. :)
 
I mocked up an EJ AWD gearbox and engine in a parts brumby to look at gearbox to trans tunnel clearance as I’ve heard it’s not good.

On the contrary, it fits very well and the empty gearbox and centre diff cases managed to naturally sit where it needs to be with only the engine mounts doing the work :D

Now to fab up a suitable custom gearbox crossmember to fit that H setup into the MY. Then it’ll be time to have a tailshaft made up. That’s going to hurt the wallet...

I’m still chasing a male drive shaft inner cup and two C clips as per here. I’m hoping someone can help me out.

Cheers

Bennie
 
I replaced my D2R HIDs with Lunex bulbs from the UK.

Before:
kWubPtd.jpg

Sorry, this photo was taken behind the steering wheel.

After:
E2LWcYQ.jpg

The photos are on an uphill to highlight the difference in light volume. I will retake the photo in 3 weeks as the bulbs will still be priming themselves up. Manual settings: MFT F/1.7 SS:1/50 ISO:3200

High beams:
6NMOhve.jpg


I will be doing the HIR1 upgrade soon.

Yesterday, my 15 year-old Panasonic head unit died so I had to purchase a new one. This one is a Sony and is on special at SCA.

Wiring before:
rThWVWJ.jpg


The harnesses are soldered. I could have bought a Subaru to Sony pre-made harness but soldering is somewhat satisfying.
9g0vbKZ.jpg


Heat shrink tubing:
19MNfxL.jpg


The wiring is neater now.
mCzw9qW.jpg


Already connected - I just had to adjust the brackets so the HU is more flush.
TCUcuBY.jpg


Completed - Sony head units look stock.
JEsLyKf.jpg
 
Put a mains charger on the battery on Roo2 ...

Had to jump start it yesterday.

Seems that the 5 minute runs to the shops aren't sufficient to keep the battery charged :(.
 
After charging overnight, started fine. Voltage after charging was ~13.29V.

Unfortunately, the next day it had dropped to ~10.3V. So looks like it's rooted :(. The built in battery condition indicator is also showing black, not green ...

However, around 10 years isn't bad at all! This battery spent a couple of years in the Camry before we traded it in on RonnyRoo in early 2012. Swapped the no name battery out of Roo2 before the Camry went to the knackery. That Bosch battery has now been in Roo2 for just over 8 years, so 10+ years use in total.

Roo2 needs a service, so will just keep it on the trickle charger overnight until it can be booked in.

Needless to say, another Bosch battery will be going into it ...
 
Just after I bought my Forester in 2002, the oem battery died and I replaced it with a oem Yaesu that only held 4 years....so I decided to buy the cheapest no name battery and it held 12 years !
 
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