What have you done to your car today?

If they did an alignment (and they should have) they should have given you a print out.

Positive camber is asking for terrible handling.
 
Thats a fair bit of lift :lildevil:

Wheels leaning out at the top (positive camber) will give bad handling & wear the outside of the tyres really fast. You may need to get aftermarket camber bolts:
Whiteline KCA414 Camber bolts
Eibach have also been recommended to one member on here...

Another thought is some tyre places have no idea about wheel alignments. I had one place tell me there's no rear camber adjustment on a Subaru! :huh::shake:

It may pay to chase around for a decent wheel aligner. Ask em plenty of questions to sort out the idiots!

Hope you got the details of whoever backed into you....
 
No, didn't see it happen and they didn't leave their details. Bloody annoying!
I will definitely get a second wheel alignment. Don't want to ruin a set of tyres. Nachluva I think your right, camber bolts are needed to correct this.
 
I had about 1.8in of lift and needed two sets on camber bolts. Varies a bit from car to car, but at the height you've got... pretty sure you need them too.
 
Gidday ST

Is there? I probably should know that!

AFAIK, there is caster and camber adjustment on the front, but only camber on the rear.

There is toe-in/toe-out all round on the Foresters. At least there is on Roo2 ...

Also AFAIK some makes/models of cars do not have toe-in/toe-out adjustment on the rear, and some have no caster or camber adjustments there either.
 
Fitted a pair of IPF 900XS driving light this morning. A spot and a wide beam. At least being winter I won't have to wait much longer for it to get dark today to try them out.
 
^ Just read the Haynes manual section, and it states that there is no caster or camber adjustment on the rear (all models), only toe-in/toe-out.
 
Where is the tow adjustment is it on the rear control arm?
 
Yes.

By " ... a cam bolt on the inner end of the rearmost control arm or link."
 
toe adjustment on the rear is on the inner bolt of the rear lower trailing arm. It actually does a little camber and caster too.
 
Hi all, fitted a new wheel bearing to front passenger wheel, fitted new slotted front rotors, fixed a slow leaking tyre & topped up engine oil, all in all a productive day!
 
Put some standard height king springs in rear last night. Solved my saggy donkey problem. 2 hours to remove, replace the springs and reinstall the struts (rear only). Used hand tools and a cordless drill to spin off the wheel nuts and to tighten/un-tighten the spring compressors.

A tip is to jack up the hub and put the spring compressors on the springs all you have to do is hand tighten and they will take up enough tension so that when you remove the load the strut top is loose. Saved a bit of time on the second strut.

Also did my own wheel alignment using strings - much easier than I thought is would be. About an 1:30 start to finish including one front and one rear toe adjustment - the rest was ok in fact is was all ok it was that the side to side was a bit off.

There isn't much difference in feel from the springs when driving but it does take a bit more to make then compress -ie heavier load. Good mod for a daily driver that has an occasional off road/camping trip helps with the load for camping but hasn't significantly effected ride quality
 
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Installing cargo compartments around the box soon.
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Lights and tire carrier installed and . Saving fot tires an rims and lift now.
 
A tip is to jack up the hub and put the spring compressors on the springs all you have to do is hand tighten and they will take up enough tension so that when you remove the load the strut top is loose. Saved a bit of time on the second strut.

thanks for the hot tip!

not my subie but i did install my ARB bar and all my under body protection on the zook this weekend
 
Fitted a spotty/rego plate holder on the front, used some 100mm screws to attach it through the front bumper into the ali box section behind.
Doesn't affect airbags does it?!
 
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