The Red XS

I wasn't going to do a build thread as I didn't think I needed major modifications. But looking back all the minor tweaks over the years have built up. Actually, it has still been less then two years. So here we go...

When I got my Forrie it was the only SG series II that I could afford on my uni student budget and despite a few minor problems (lack of oil and radiator fluid) it was still so much nicer than any of the series I's that I test drove. This was my first car and has still been my only car. I originally got it because I wanted a 4wd that was still nice to drive.

After reading through the forum my first mod was my DIY mark I bashplate which I installed before doing any offroading.

1_zps49d73d5a.jpg


Did a few surf trips and a few trips with forum members. Meeting a lot of great people on here, some of them with an insane amount of very helpful knowledge. The forester proved to be a very capable car off road even in its pretty much stock form. I wasn't going to do any mods as I didn't think I needed them, how ever my bash plate was slowly turning into a bashed plate as I was doing a fair bit of scraping.

So then came the lift. Opted for 1" strut top spacers, mostly because they were cheap, but also because i wanted to keep the half decent articulation of the standard springs. If anything, I'd want softer suspension, as I travel light, with further travel, but there don't seem to be any cheap options for that.

Untitled4_zps59b0dddf.jpg


Car looks way better with the lift in! Proportions really suited the car, this is how Subaru should have sold them as stock. At least the newer models come with decent ground clearance.:)

Now, most the tracks I do are with minimal scraping, occasionally I wish I put a 2" lift in, but I haven't really "needed" it. Since was doing less scraping the DIY mark II bashplate came along.
https://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=5671

10_zps85747e32.jpg


Another DIY job was the easily removable window mounted CB ariel.
1_zps4026c614.jpg


Car was doing and looking great. Got the Red XS up one of the tallest sand dunes in Australia first attempt, while Land Cruisers and Patrols were running out of power 1/8th of the way up. But the next thing to fix was the approach angles. I only saw the plastic bumpers limitations as a guideline, hence the scrapes and holes in it. A SubaXtreme bull bar came up for sale locally for a decent price and was in my colour! This was far too good an opportunity to miss.

To be continued...
 
Some nice pics, that would have been a great holiday in a really awesome location! Looks pretty remote though, you said you were the only one on the beach after you helped the bogged 4wd out. Were you worried about getting stuck?

Sounds like the new low range did the job! Makes such a difference!
 
Definitely had to be cautious. Once I was on my own I parked up on top of the cliff where the car is in the photo and walked down. It would be nice to go back again and venture into the dunes with another vehicle, but on the day it was just sight seeing.
 
Some pictures from my latest trip.
IMGP6540_zpssnnqhjcp.jpg


The standard Forester wheel lift.
IMGP6534_zpshu8tyykc.jpg


Front swaybar is disconnected, rear is still connected.
IMGP6604_zpsbxfgfcar.jpg


Using the extra clearance of the bulbar. Somehow I didn't bottom out once that day.
IMGP6601_zps2pmhhts9.jpg


IMGP6623_zpsnncyyg36.jpg


King of the rock.
IMGP6629_zpsjvffdfjg.jpg
 
Nice pictures of your adventures, looks like a great part of the country to be having a drive around.
 
Build Updates

Sump Brace
My bash plate was designed for more sand tracks and softer offroading, now that I've been getting more serious I didn't really trust it for a hard rock hit. Instead of starting from scratch with a steel plate I just made up a steel frame that sits inbetween the bash plate and sump. Acts more a a bash plate reinforcement. I can still access the oil drain with the bar in place, so I only have to remove the light weight aluminum plate. Plus it has stronger mounting points then the radiator support.
HnunkxNl.jpg


There is actually enough of a gap between exhaust and bar, just looks close in pic.


Radiator Protector
Had some bad stone dents in the condenser. I think the bullbar leaves in more vulnerable then the stock bumper. So I added some stainless mesh like they use to protect motorcycle radiators. I clipped on some edge trim as the edges were sharp and scratchy. Entire thing is fairly rigid and sits in happily with cable ties.
VvjUuwZl.jpg
cGlO9HOl.jpg



Strut Braces
Opening the boot while on uneven ground had actually been getting worse. I'm not sure if things fatiguing or if the longer shocks are putting more leverage through the chassis. But figured it was worth giving a rear strut brace ago and also got a front one since I can't really tell how much the front of the car flexes. The front bar actually made a noticeable difference to handling which I wasn't really expecting. Initial turn in feels much more sudden. Must have had a concerning amount of chassis flex before... I can't pick a difference in handling with the rear strut bar, but it's not a race car. Main reason was to take load of the chassis offroad.
ZI3HCJvl.jpg


Dual Battery
You can see the big cables running near the front strut bar. I fitted a 55aHr AGM battery sitting on it's side under the front passenger seat. Battery sits snug in a diy wood box and is strapped in. The switch manually connects the batteries to the cables that were the old terminals so that I can use each battery to do everything on the car, including start the car. Can have the batteries isolated or connected to both for charging. Just need to avoid switching to OFF to avoid resetting everything.

9iWNQDwl.jpg
815AJfel.jpg



Suspension
When running the 2.65Kg/mm front and 2.2Kg/mm rear springs the car was a bit off-balanced going over bumps. Rears just felt too stiff. So I swapped in 1.8Kg/mm springs into the rear and car feels much better.



I also fitted Ariete 07995 motocycle gaiters for shock protection. The bottom is a tight fit on the housing and the top is wedged between the bumpstop and tophat plus the outer diameter fits nicely inside the spring. It's really like they were made specifically for my coilovers!

UZdfRGil.jpg


Also got new front tophats as the bearings had gone in the old tophats so bad noises were happening during steering.

So fixed a few small issues when pulling the coilovers apart, but the Hotbits shocks themselves are still going very well! Recently redid the West Cape Howe trip and hills that previously took several attempts have become relatively easy. Unfortunately they closed the specific track that tried to eat my car, so I couldn't retry that one. It looked like others had issues too. Even with the stiffer rear springs the general offroad ride was still way better then stock.

Current suspension specs are 210mm stroke front, 300mm stroke rear Hotbits. 150lb/in (2.65Kg/mm) front, 100lb/in (1.8Kg/mm) rear 16" Eibach barrel springs. Ariete 07995 gaiters. 3" trailing arm spacers. 2" rear diff drop. No front diff drop. Car sits with 58mm lift front and 75mm lift rear. In the last year I've done one of the rear CV boot, was an original as far as I could tell. And put a stick through a front outer. Front inners weren't that old before I got the Hotbits. The other rear inner looks ancient, but is still going strong. So CV wear isn't too extreme.
 
Good mods ! I can now clearly see that the front A-arms are different to the previous Forester models, probably the reason for less front travel/droop.
 
Sump Brace
My bash plate was designed for more sand tracks and softer offroading, now that I've been getting more serious I didn't really trust it for a hard rock hit. Instead of starting from scratch with a steel plate I just made up a steel frame that sits inbetween the bash plate and sump. Acts more a a bash plate reinforcement. I can still access the oil drain with the bar in place, so I only have to remove the light weight aluminum plate. Plus it has stronger mounting points then the radiator support.
HnunkxNl.jpg


There is actually enough of a gap between exhaust and bar, just looks close in pic.


Radiator Protector
Had some bad stone dents in the condenser. I think the bullbar leaves in more vulnerable then the stock bumper. So I added some stainless mesh like they use to protect motorcycle radiators. I clipped on some edge trim as the edges were sharp and scratchy. Entire thing is fairly rigid and sits in happily with cable ties.
VvjUuwZl.jpg
cGlO9HOl.jpg



Strut Braces
Opening the boot while on uneven ground had actually been getting worse. I'm not sure if things fatiguing or if the longer shocks are putting more leverage through the chassis. But figured it was worth giving a rear strut brace ago and also got a front one since I can't really tell how much the front of the car flexes. The front bar actually made a noticeable difference to handling which I wasn't really expecting. Initial turn in feels much more sudden. Must have had a concerning amount of chassis flex before... I can't pick a difference in handling with the rear strut bar, but it's not a race car. Main reason was to take load of the chassis offroad.
ZI3HCJvl.jpg


Dual Battery
You can see the big cables running near the front strut bar. I fitted a 55aHr AGM battery sitting on it's side under the front passenger seat. Battery sits snug in a diy wood box and is strapped in. The switch manually connects the batteries to the cables that were the old terminals so that I can use each battery to do everything on the car, including start the car. Can have the batteries isolated or connected to both for charging. Just need to avoid switching to OFF to avoid resetting everything.

9iWNQDwl.jpg
815AJfel.jpg



Suspension
When running the 2.65Kg/mm front and 2.2Kg/mm rear springs the car was a bit off-balanced going over bumps. Rears just felt too stiff. So I swapped in 1.8Kg/mm springs into the rear and car feels much better.



I also fitted Ariete 07995 motocycle gaiters for shock protection. The bottom is a tight fit on the housing and the top is wedged between the bumpstop and tophat plus the outer diameter fits nicely inside the spring. It's really like they were made specifically for my coilovers!

UZdfRGil.jpg


Also got new front tophats as the bearings had gone in the old tophats so bad noises were happening during steering.

So fixed a few small issues when pulling the coilovers apart, but the Hotbits shocks themselves are still going very well! Recently redid the West Cape Howe trip and hills that previously took several attempts have become relatively easy. Unfortunately they closed the specific track that tried to eat my car, so I couldn't retry that one. It looked like others had issues too. Even with the stiffer rear springs the general offroad ride was still way better then stock.

Current suspension specs are 210mm stroke front, 300mm stroke rear Hotbits. 150lb/in (2.65Kg/mm) front, 100lb/in (1.8Kg/mm) rear 16" Eibach barrel springs. Ariete 07995 gaiters. 3" trailing arm spacers. 2" rear diff drop. No front diff drop. Car sits with 58mm lift front and 75mm lift rear. In the last year I've done one of the rear CV boot, was an original as far as I could tell. And put a stick through a front outer. Front inners weren't that old before I got the Hotbits. The other rear inner looks ancient, but is still going strong. So CV wear isn't too extreme.
hey josh do you know if its possible to do your front anti roll bar mod to my outback ?
 
This just keeps getting better! Love this build!! :monkeydance:

I can now clearly see that the front A-arms are different to the previous Forester models, probably the reason for less front travel/droop.

You might be looking at the front subframe which the SG has but the SF doesn't. I can't see the front lower control arms in these photos, afaik they're the same on the SF & SG
 
JFSF1: The subframe does run under the A arm, but they can't actually touch each other. It's possible that they changed bushing design or something like that to prevent the A arm from touching the subframe. Pushing down on the A arm while no shock is attatched feels like something rubber is stopping it, but I can't see what it is. But hard to say how much further it could drop before hitting the subframe. And I don't know how much more angle I want to give my CV's...


Picture is left front A arm looking forwards. So you see the back of the A arm. I'd have to take a wheel of for a better photo.

NquQsbhl.jpg



Wayne: It's probably possible, but I'd have to have a look under your car to say for sure. You doing Mtnroo Mundaring next Saturday?
 
JFSF1: The subframe does run under the A arm, but they can't actually touch each other. It's possible that they changed bushing design or something like that to prevent the A arm from touching the subframe. Pushing down on the A arm while no shock is attatched feels like something rubber is stopping it, but I can't see what it is. But hard to say how much further it could drop before hitting the subframe. And I don't know how much more angle I want to give my CV's...


Picture is left front A arm looking forwards. So you see the back of the A arm. I'd have to take a wheel of for a better photo.

NquQsbhl.jpg



Wayne: It's probably possible, but I'd have to have a look under your car to say for sure. You doing Mtnroo Mundaring next Saturday?
dont think so mate still wanting to get my bash plate repaired plus im still off with a bad shoulder so i cant be bumping around too much . will have to sort a meet out up if your free .. maybe after the all ford day ?
 
You spelt Subifest wrong.... Sure we'll sort something out.
 
I see, so that piece of metal is a subframe. Is it there to protect the A-arms ? And how is the A-arm bolted to the chassis at the rear ?
 
The subframe runs from the radiator support to under the front of the foot wells. I assume it's to add some chassis rigidity to the SG. It would have been better if there were bars going across the car. The subframe does run under the A arm mounts and under the swaybar mounts.


Subframe off car



1JFcVuml.jpg



Front subframe mount
ANyNoEMl.jpg



Rear end of subframe looking forward. You can see the rear A arm mount ontop of subframe.
lk0KsQbl.jpg
WnoYt8Ml.jpg



And then A arm from the front
Y6Jf9Rdl.jpg
jgyy8DRl.jpg
 
Thank you for the pics Red !

Now that the A-arms are the same as the '03-'05 SG's, what limits their droop if its not the subframes ? Have you tried to push them down with the struts/coilovers bolted to the hub but the tophat not bolted to the chassis ? I'm asking because I had to swap the SG A-arm balljoints, for the OEM SF balljoints, as they were limiting the A-arm angle.
 
I have tried pushing down on the A arms while the shock is unbolted. I'm not sure what it is that's stopping it. It feels like something rubber is stopping it, so I thought it was the pivots on the inner mounts. But thinking about it, it could be the ball joints. I'm not sure how much more angle before the subframe gets in the way, but at the moment it feels like a rubber something is stopping it, not a metal something.
 
New wheels!
Raceline 141S 15x7 +40mm offset PCD 5x100
kO3aYRal.jpg



Wrapped in 225/70R15 Toyo Open Country HT's. Should bag out brilliantly for soft beaches. Which ironically is one of the few terrains I haven't tackled in them yet.
f3t6ALfl.jpg



I had to shave a little off the front calipers.
opqGwGtl.jpg



The +40mm offset brings the wheels close to flush with the car body. I also added mudflaps to stop flicking stuff down the side of the car. I ripped the rears off first time offroad, but the fronts are hanging in there.
Gq06Xzgl.jpg



Last three weekends I've been finding the edge of their traction. Videos to come!
uJ0a3yrl.jpg
1daN8pwl.jpg

EIYauK1l.jpg
AF87jk0.jpg
 
Brand new wheels and already dirty, well done !
 
Back
Top