a budget offroad gearbox build and BIG tyres.

You have to be careful with a few of these details. The original Gen1 liberty dual range gearbox uses the same 3 bolt input shaft as the L series.

The L series low range synchro hub has longer splines compared to the EJ input shaft.

There's no such thing as a phase one or two pinion shaft. All EJ pinion shafts are interchangeable for the 5 speed gearboxes.

The phase two SG dual range gearbox I've got in bits has the gear selector retainer decent balls externally accessible same way the phase one is.

Speedo drive gear, internal bearings, selector rods are the same. Phase 2 reverse has a synchro mounted behind the 5th gear.

Phase one or two centre diff will work with either gearbox but MUST be used with its corresponding housing. I've been told the phase one centre diff is less prone to damage from uneven tyre wear or tyre pressures.

Phase Two gearbox can be used with a "phase one" engine, a stud needs to be put in for the lower starter motor's mount. Phase two is hydraulic clutch setup, early phase one is cable operated only.

Phase two gearbox casing has more external bracing/thicker walls. To me this is a stronger case.

Cheers

Bennie
 
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^ Geez, you are an absolute gold mine of this kind of info, Bennie! :biggrin:

Keep up the good work.

This sort of fundamental info really needs to be in a sticky thread of its own as well. Too easy for it to get "lost" here.
I'll look at copying it to one later today.

Could you give me a good descriptive title for the new thread, please? e.g. "Differences between XX and YY Gearboxes", or some such?
 
El_Freddo said:
You have to be careful with a few of these details.
Click to expand...
Yes I quite agree, one of the main reasons I put not confirmed after many of them as I have not seen evidence and many of the references have been very obscure.

El_Freddo said:
Phase one or two centre diff will work with either gearbox but MUST be used with its corresponding housing. I've been told the phase one centre diff is less prone to damage from uneven tyre wear or tyre pressures.
Click to expand...

Housing and transfer gears. Although it is only the very rear section of the housing of the transfer case that is critical, the main transfer case housing that holds the gear selection arm is interchangeable AFAIK

Very interesting about the phase one diffs being less prone to damage as the viscous unit in the phase one is between front and rear output where as the phase 2 is between the rear output and the diff body thus the phase one viscous unit experiences twice the rotational speed difference as the phase one when slippage occurs which, I would have thought would make it both more effective and more likely to wear out. The same change was made between the original Subaru rear VLSD (left - right axle speed comparison) and the more recent type that is use in SG foresters etc (Passenger side axle - diff body speed comparison).
 
Found out this arvo that the woodruff key in the phase two is larger than the phase one for the bottom (pinion drive) shaft in the 5th gear.

I also don't know how others (that I've heard of on the webs) claim to change their fifth ratio with the gearbox in the car - I had a hand turn hydraulic press to pull the lower fifth gear from the shaft. With the limited room under a vehicle, then the selector shafts also in the area around the gear it seems virtually impossible!

This swap certainly didn't turnout to be an "undo this and that, swap this and that then tighten" situation!

Now to visit a machine shop to get this sorted if possible.

So phase one and two fifth gear ratios are NOT A DIRECT swap due to the size of the keyway.

Cheers

Bennie
 
After waiting for more than 4 weeks the parts for the 1.59 low gear arrived from Japan!!
Upcoming saturday i gonna pick up the tranny and the weekend after that i hope to mount this tranny together with an other ej20 engine.

I tried to fit a 30 inch tire on my suby. On a stock steel rim it hits the bottom of the SG spring perch. If i want to mount this tire it wil has to come 4 centimers outwards. I have to try out if it will rub against the body when then suspension is compressed. I have the idea that 30 is a bit to much and that without cutting the fenderwells or ad more lift 225-75-15 is the maximum size at the moment.
 
casperfromholland said:
After waiting for more than 4 weeks the parts for the 1.59 low gear arrived from Japan!!
Upcoming saturday i gonna pick up the tranny and the weekend after that i hope to mount this tranny together with an other ej20 engine.
Click to expand...

Cool, keep us updated !
 
Bit frustrated right now. Not say a bit angry.. :madred:

what happened.? When i pulled the old engine and the tranny, i hurt my back and couldn't work on my fozzy for a month. The last 2day's we mounted the other engine and transmission.
And now i have 2 issues. The engine starts but doesn't run, an electrical gremlin. The engine is from a legacy and there are some differences in wirering. But i will solve that. The second issue is a bit nastier. I mounted the gearleaver and i have all the 5 gears so that's oke.
The challenge is that I only have high gearing no low gearing. The lever on the tranny is stuck. :eviltoyou:

On monday, I gonna call my tranny guru who build this tranny and trying to be polite, telling him that i'm a bid disapointed....
 
That's not good mate.

As Nachaluva said - check the low range linkages. Hopefully it's an easy fix in that department.

As for the engine running issue - two things:

1) can you fit your original intake manifold and sensors to the new engine? This will eliminate wiring issues

2) the cam gear may need to be swapped to your original engine's one. If this engine is from another model year/different capacity it is highly likely that the cam gear's timing marks are different for the sensor pickup tabs. Swapping to original cam gear/wheels should solve your no run after initial start issue.

More work :( But we'll get you there so you look like this :biggrin:

Cheers

Bennie
 
Yeah first disconnect everything from the dual range lever (are you using a cable to move the lever like the OEM does?). Once disconnected see if there is any play in the arm going into the gearbox and if you can change between high and low by moving it (it does take a bit of force to do it, but a very short shifter on the top of the arm should be able to do it easily). I am assuming you didn't try it before installing the gearbox?
 
Engine gives no spark at the plugs. The "new" engine is a ej20 from a 2000 legacy. I used the inlet manifold & wirering from my old ej 20. The only difference is that the legacy engine has a sensor on the left cillinderhead (european drivers side) which my fozzy hasn't. So that one isn't used. Could that be the cause?

the lever and cable from h/l works smooth when the cable is disconnected and the cable is OEM
Is there a difference in the cable from a 4 hole (phase 1) tranny and a 8 hole (phase 2) tranny?
 
It seems that there is a difference between the timingbelt sprockets which are mounted on the cranckshaft. For 99% sure that should be the culprit of not having a spark. Tomorrow i gonna take off the timing belt to be sure.
 
Believe it or not my gearbox guru broke his wrist and was not being able to repair my box. I went to his shop and did it my self, with him telling me what to do. Very educational, i have done a lot on cars but this was the first time that i worked on a gearbox. I mounted the box back in my fozzy today, it's not finished yet, have solve the ignition problem first.
 
Yep it'll be the crankshaft sprocket causing the no spark issue.
No you don't need to plug in the camshaft sensor on passrnger side head.
 
Bad news about your guru but great that he was able to guide you through it. I bet you enjoyed pulling the box apart. I hear its like Legos :rotfl:
 
Yes NL it was fun doing this. Very Interesting! But to be honest i don't think that i can build a gearbox my self now, it's quite difficult. :iconwink:

Wow Dedman my English isn't good enough to write that down! It had to do with a sprocket of which the center is keeping inplace by 3 small splines, and 2 C shaped springs. One of those springs came loose fell down in the box and got the shape of a paperclip. Sorry i can't explain it any better.. :shrug:

An other question. The sensor for the speedometer has normaly 3 wires in a 8 lug gearbox. Now with the "new" 4 lug box i have a sensor with 2 wires. Is it possible to connect those 2 wires to my 3 wire wireharness? Or should i replace the sensor for a 3 wire one. Which i will have to buy because i don't get the 3 wire sensor out of my old 8 lug box.

I must say that it take waaaay much work then i expected..

Btw engine is running! Quite proud of my self :lol::cool::raz:
 
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