New springs and struts - just checkin'

Tannin

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
209
Location
Huon Valley Tasmania
Car Year
2007
Car Model
Forester
Transmission
Manual
Following on from this thread, I will soon be replacing various suspension bits in my faithful MY05 Forester. (Well, the bloke down the road who has been mending my cars since Mazda rotary days in the mid-1980s will, him or one of his lads.)

I don't want to do anything that will be awkward insurance-wise. In fact I'd prefer not to have a "lift" at all, I just want the car to ride higher. The way I'm looking at it, heavy-duty springs are just a slightly improved routine replacement for the worn out ones; where a lift kit would be a different matter.

The plan:
  • Replace the rear springs with heavy-duty units, probably Kings.
  • (Probably) Replace the front springs as well - though the factory ones seem OK still.
  • New struts all-round.
  • Replace any other worn suspension and/or steering components that seem to need it. (That will be up to the mechanic to judge. I wouldn't know a ball joint from a jock strap)
  • Sump guard? (See below)



The car:
  • MY05 Forester: base model, manual
  • Age: 9 years; 265,000 kilometres on the clock
  • Appearance: the rear suspension has been a bit on the low side practically since new. Well, as long as I can remember, anyway. I always have a lot of stuff in the back. Now it is lower than ever.
  • Drives: sloppy as blackberry. (Or possibly some other thing starting with "b", sounds like "blackberry".) But was fine up until quite recently - last 5 or 10,000 k, I think. Now it is horrible. Corners like an old Volkswagon Beetle.
  • The suspension: 100% stock ex-factory. Never been touched in 260 thousand k, bar new tyres and the odd brake pad replacement. This base model has standard struts, not the self-leveling ones.

The usage:

  • Highway: lots.
  • Gravel road: lots
  • Bad gravel road: lots. (Corrugations, potholes, all the usual stuff. I don't like to let any of that worry me too much, just cruise on through it at a decent, often quickish, pace and the Subi will cope.)
  • Mud: seldom.
  • Sand: sometimes.
  • Deep sand: I've been mostly avoiding it these last few years. I don't actally enjoy hard driving, I just like to get to nice places. But it would be nice to be a bit more confident venturing down certain tracks without having to worry about getting stuck.
  • Genuine rough stuff needing 4WD crawling and lots of suspension travel. Seldom. But when we do want to get through a bad bit, it really, realy helps to have that ability there if needed!
  • The load: nearly always well loaded-up with equipment. Only one (sometimes two) humans, but a heap of gear in the back.

My main priority is the ability to stand up to long-distance cruising on rough outback gravel roads - hundreds of kilometres of bad corrugations in a day, potholes, all the usual stuff. I also want to get a good long service life out of these bits - let's say a hundred thousand plus. The old ones have been good for 250 thou after all.

I expect, more or less as of right, to get decent highway manners and the usual effortless Subaru handling on gravel.

I would also like to get (1) a bit more ground clearance for deep sand, badly rutted 4WD tracks, and river crossings. (I spend a lot of time in outback Queensland where it's pretty routine to have to ford streams.) Even a half-inch would be of use. Every little counts. And (2) serious off-road ability at least equal to what I have now for those short stretches of very rough stuff that needs high clearance and lots of wheel travel. More than equal would be better, of course.

I mentioned a sump guard earlier. I've never had one, well, not since I smashed up the silly factory plastic one 150,000 kilometres ago. Because the rear springs have always sagged, if I'm going to hit anything it's always been a matter of clouting the tow bar long before I make contact at the front end. But that won't apply now, so what's the go for a sump guard? I don't think I need anything too extreme - I've driven 260 thousand without one, after all. But it would be nice to have something there.

My present plan is to simply take the car down to Greg and tell him to fit heavy-duty springs and whatever struts he thinks, plus other suspension work as he sees fit. That should give me maybe an inch of extra lift (above stock). I'm not after anything wild, just practical.

Am I on the right track here?
 
Knowing your approach to driving and touring, I would recommend:

Raised king springs with a "SP" rated spring in the back: allows for heavier loads.

new struts: KYB aftermarket would suit you fine. AND

1 inch spacers / lift from Subtle.

It will not affect your handling to any large extent. It will give you stiffer springs, better shock absorption and some extra lift.

When you get the struts replaced, keep your old struts because there is an emerging demand for OEM struts for modification. Someone here will take them off your hands.

You will not regret the change. BTW had a scout around your site recently: some nice stories behind some of those pics I'm sure.
 
I hear what you are saying, lads, but what's the go with insurance?
 
Shouldn't be a problem. I simply told my insurer and they listed the modifications on my policy. Same goes for my current vehicle: all modifications are listed. Have had insurance claims and there hasn't been any issue.
 
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It's the legal limit in all states of Australia so you'll be fine.
As Dulagarl said let your insurance company know and you'll be right. ....
 
Knowing your approach to driving and touring, I would recommend:
Raised king springs with a "SP" rated spring in the back: allows for heavier loads.
new struts: KYB aftermarket would suit you fine. AND
1 inch spacers / lift from Subtle.
It will not affect your handling to any large extent. It will give you stiffer springs, better shock absorption and some extra lift.
When you get the struts replaced, keep your old struts because there is an emerging demand for OEM struts for modification. Someone here will take them off your hands.
You will not regret the change. BTW had a scout around your site recently: some nice stories behind some of those pics I'm sure.

I found this thread toady (thought I had it sorted, but no!) and I'm in the same boat with a 05 XT. The rear is shagged out and I want it to sit better, especially with the ISI bike carrier attached. In the current Kings catalogue
I see they list SP's for front raised (KSFR-32SP). For the rear they just list lower, standard and raised, no mention of SP? Are you using raised rear (KSRR-43) with the SP raised fronts, or standard with subtle spacer blocks?

Main reason I ask is when I put kings on the pajero a few years ago people were reporting wildly different lift heights using various combos of kings and king hd's (depending on bullbars, dual tanks etc). My experience was the raised springs all round gave an even 2" lift.

Can you expect a 2" lift using kings raised version on the forester?
 
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I'm going to do my brakes and replace the shocks on my MY05 forester and yesterday was doing the rounds up at Bega to check what they want for parts and labour.
My pads are the original ones and done 145,000klms and i fgure that is enough so will replace them. My shocks were replaced at 50,000klms with KYBs' and so are now 95,000klms old and that is well past their use by date.
At the AutoPro shop they quoted me $235 EACH for KYB ExcelG shocks, which are really the only option you will have as after market shocks. I think KYB make the OEM shocks for Subaru anyway.
I found this...
https://www.gibbosauto.com/shop.php?action=search&type=search&searchTerm=33434
These are the 4 shocks you need. 334342...3..4..5 (last number)
https://www.kyb.com.au/shock-absorbers-part-finder?PageMode=Results&Make=SUBARU&Model=FORESTER&ModelNo=%28GEN%3A2%29+SG%2C+2.5L+4WD+S%2FWagon+X+%26+XS%2C+Excl.+XS+Rear+Self+Leveling+Susp.+Note%3A+Rear+Self+Levelling+units+can+be+identified+by+the+remote+Piggy-Back+canister.+%28Excl.+O.E.+P%2FN%3A+20360SA030%29&DateFrom=07%2F2002&DateTo=06%2F2005
I also went to the Subaru dealer who quoted me...F..$169 each R $173 each.
Something for you to consider is that the KYB shocks are valved at 20% harder than the OEM shocks, i know this because i spoke to the KYB bloke when i originally changed them, and it is to allow for suspension wear.
If you are going to change your springs and do a lot of offroad stuff it might be worthwhile to consider the OEM shocks. They might not last as long but could give you a better ride over the rough stuff.
I replaced the springs in mine with Industrial Springs 50mm lift 25% heavier springs. In reality it was a 25mm lift and really fixed the back up as far as towing goes. The ride is a touch hard but i do run Yokohama ATS tyres so they are a touch hard anyway.
The difference between my springs and the King springs,which would make my ride harder, is that the Kings are progressive springs and mine are linear springs (as are OEM) so i don't get the initial softness before they load up. I'd probably go the Kings if i did it again.
Today i also sent Bendix an email re pads as they listed in their replacement pads a 4WD version for the front but not the rear.
Bloody good service here as the fellow rang me back within an hour and i had a chat with him and explained the sort of driving i do and the fact that i tow a boat at times and he suggested i go with the 4WD for the front and the General CT version on the rear.
https://www.bendix.com.au/catalogue/9814#
No problems re 'mix & match' and this was his suggeestion. He said i will get better pedal feel and better braking all round.
Someone with more knowledege than me could probably advise re the pads but i understand it is a big mistake to go with an overkill in the pad department. They just won't work and can play havoc with disc life.
I'm going to take the Bendix guys advise.
The Subaru dealer quoted me $195 to chage pads all round....no fluid flush....just change the pads.
Subaru quote for changing shocks...$212 front...$240 rear.
The ARB guy quoted me $150 an end to change shocks and ...i think...$75 per end for pad change. $70 each for disc machining if needed.
I'm just about to post in this section about changing the front pads as i will see if i can do it myself.
 
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The Subaru dealer quoted me $195 to chage pads all round....no fluid flush....just change the pads.
Subaru quote for changing shocks...$212 front...$240 rear.
The ARB guy quoted me $150 an end to change shocks and ...i think...$75 per end for pad change. $70 each for disc machining if needed.
I'm just about to post in this section about changing the front pads as i will see if i can do it myself.
You should not pay for more than $30 each for disc machining.
 
I emailed King Springs earlier this year and this is what I advised them

Make: Subaru
Model: Forester XS MY03
Month: 6/2002
Engine: petrol
Accessories: Towbar / alloy bullbar
Message: I am looking at replacing my struts with KYB (front 334342 /
334343 Rear 334344/334345) can you advise what increase in height I would get fitting KSFR32SP & KSRR43

This is the response:
You will se a lift of approximately 25-30mm over STD height.

Regards ,

Kris Tarrant

Sales and Technical Services
IT Manager
KING SPRINGWORKS PTY LTD
 
Can you expect a 2" lift using kings raised version on the forester?

king springs advertise them as a 30mm lift once settled i had about 30mm lift maybe a little less

I emailed King Springs earlier this year and .........
........ This is the response:
You will se a lift of approximately 25-30mm over STD height.

That sounds about right.
Mine ended up at around 35mm higher when they were fitted & settled at about 30mm :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
I was mucking around and did a search on Gumtree for Subaru Forester brake pads...not expecting to find anything really and low and behold up pops a fellow selling a set of Bendix 4WD pads bought for a MY03 Forester which he sold before he put the pads on. 2002 to 2008 have the same front pads so that was good. $30 (set of 4) plus $12.50 postage. I think the 4WD ones are around $90 for a set of 2 so i reckon thats not a bad price.:)
HOPEFULLY...they will turn up next week and i am going to have a go at fitting them myself. I've been watching YouTube,,,:lol::lol:.
My discs seem fine so i will try and get some Bendix brake grease/lube stuff and have a go.
 
I have ordered the Subtle strut spacers, should get here next week. Very fast, efficient service from Subtle. Kudos there. (Their e-commerce server belongs in 1998 but their human was right on the ball. :) )

My local bloke is going to order heavy-duty springs all round and struts to match. Should I have stuck with standard rather than heavy-duty springs and/or struts for the fronts? It might not be too late to change. I didn't specify a brand (that's his department!) but I imagine it will be Kings & KYB.

NachaLuva has put his hand up for the old struts. I'll be interested to see what he does with them!
 
By the way, what is the go with a bash plate? I've never had one (aside from the silly plastic thing they fiit at the factory which lasted about 20,000k) and didn't worry too much as anytime I it something it was always the tow bar mounting because of the arse-down suspension. With the car level again (albeit higher) I'm more likely to bash something expensive. Where do I get a bash plate?

(Sorry for going off-topic.)
 
Hmmm ... problem.

I've just been talking to Gary (my mechanic) and he's getting weird answers about the right springs and shockers to order. According to his supplier, the Kings heavy-duty springs for the MY05 Forester will provide a two inch lift!. Add in the one inch Subtle lift blocks as well (I already have these, arrived yesterday) and we have a pretty wild three inch lift, which won't be legal, or insurable, or terrible practical. Oh, and according to his supplier, the tall springs will be too tall for the shocks too. Schmozzle!

(One possible explanation is that maybe Gary mistakenly asked for Outback parts rather than Forester ones. Or maybe his supplier has it wrong. Dunno.)

Anyway, can some kind soul confirm for me which are the correct Kings part numbers for a mild lift (one inch maximum), or two inches if we also count the lift blocks.

Remember, my standard rear suspension sagged because I generally have a fair load in the back, so I want something that will take a bit more weight and remain level, plus add a little extra clearance, but I don't want to sacrifice ride and good-road handling (well, a little bit is OK, but only a little).

So: which particular springs?
Which particular shockers?

Thanks guys!
 
I'm not sure the shockers should be a problem. As far as i am aware you have no choice. The ones from KYB which are in the link i posted or the the ones from Subaru. That's it.
They are the same shock but the KYBs are a touch stiffer because they are valved a bit harder. You can ring KYB but i think it states this on their website anyway.
Again...i'm sure KYB are OEM suppliers to Subaru as they are to many other companies.
Generally...if you are doing a 50mm lift on say, a Hilux, you are supposed to replace the shocks with ones that are suitable for a 50mm lift and not OEM ones. In our case you have no choice.
I suggest you ring KYB or send them an email and just see what they have to say about how it would affect the shocks.
In the end....it won't matter as there is no choice.
 
I've just been talking to Gary (my mechanic) and he's getting weird answers about the right springs and shockers to order. According to his supplier, the Kings heavy-duty springs for the MY05 Forester will provide a two inch lift!.
That doesn't sound right to me, however I'm prepared to be proven wrong.

I say this because I had heavy duty/raised Kings (& still do) installed on my Forry (MY05) which was a 35mm lift (30mm once they settled)

Hope this helps.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
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