Air Conditioning Tips

^ According to HyChill's web site, there are specific requirements to be met and procedures followed when with re-gassing with their product/s.

How many people read the instructions ... ? :poke: :iconwink:
 
Instructions are great when they work :lol: & if you can understand them, if you know what I mean :poke:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Well with all the heat the A/C in the foz has packed it in. Doesn't really get cold now.
Compressor still works so I need a new condenser, drier and TX valve. Can fit myself at work and get away with it for about $350 while it'd cost about $1200 retail.
 
That's a real bugger, Taz. Sorry to hear it, mate :(.

Is your system R12 or R134a?

Time to try out HyChill for yourself maybe?
 
It's R134a. Most vehicles since the early 90s are R134a.
I donth really wanna replace the whole system in 5years time so I'll stick to R134a. We've stopped stocking HyChill so I have no choice.
 
Ratbag said:
If thinking about re-gassing, or your air-conditioning system needs it, consider this stuff -

HyChill refrigerant, which apparently works far better with systems that were originally designed for R12 refrigerant than does R134a.

It also happens to work better than R134a in systems that are designed for R134a ... Like about 30% better!! Lookie here:

https://www.hychill.com.au/
Click to expand...

I've got it in my Subi - yet to really test it as I'm now working on some cooling issues :(

Dad's got it in his '96 rangie and he's also a convert - works a treat.

Best bit about it is that it's much more efficient and environmentally friendly than R12 and R134a by a long shot

taza said:
^ Seen a few scary and expensive situations at work with HyChill. Wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole. I highly wouldn't recommend it!
It is my job as an auto sparky to specialize in automotive refrigeration :iconwink:

Currently R134A has been around for 20 odd years in the automotive industry and works completely fine given your air conditioning system is healthy so I trust that.

I'm looking into retro-fitting A/C into the brumby...
Click to expand...

R134A has most likely contributed to the green house gases much more than R12 has - we "patched" the R12 that depleted the Ozone layer with something that's more damaging in another area.

vincentvega said:
"^ Seen a few scary and expensive situations at work with HyChill. Wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole. I highly wouldn't recommend it!
It is my job as an auto sparky to specialize in automotive refrigeration :iconwink:"

Like what? Or did a mate of a mate tell you this one..
Click to expand...

My thoughts too. There are some great stories going around about how dangerous Hychill is - but like any high pressure refrigerant it's all dangerous!

taza said:
Well with all the heat the A/C in the foz has packed it in. Doesn't really get cold now.
Compressor still works so I need a new condenser, drier and TX valve. Can fit myself at work and get away with it for about $350 while it'd cost about $1200 retail.
Click to expand...

You should know that Subi's don't have a TX valve. Good luck finding it. Apparenty it's a ford thing.

You shouldn't need a new dryer, but at the cost of a new dryer it's worth the money spend. I don't see how you'd need a new condenser, find the leak and fix it. And while you're at it go to Bursons or Conventrys (or what ever it is over there) and get a can of Hychill - then refill your system for cheap. You'll love it as your compressor won't work as hard to chill the air as it has to with R134a.

Cheers

Bennie
 
taza said:
Well with all the heat the A/C in the foz has packed it in. Doesn't really get cold now.
Compressor still works so I need a new condenser, drier and TX valve. Can fit myself at work and get away with it for about $350 while it'd cost about $1200 retail.
Click to expand...

After 10 yrs 8mths of almost constant use the A/C in my 2003 XS Forester had to be set to 20°C to get it to cool down the cab a bit.

Last week at it's 237,500 km Service I had the A/C evacuated and refilled, whoopee do, it back to being like new again.

Into the bargain the old girl got a clean bill of health with the exception of the rear brake pads, they need to be replaced within the next 5,000 kms according to the mechanic. :biggrin: :biggrin:
 
El_Freddo said:
. And while you're at it go to Bursons or Conventrys (or what ever it is over there) and get a can of Hychill - then refill your system for cheap.
Click to expand...

I'm interested - so can you get this in small quantities? (the Hychill site says 9KG - enough for 27 cars!)
 
Looks like we are up for a new a/c compressor in our Series II SF Forester. We have a Series I SF Forester as a parts car and were wondering if we could use the a/c compressor from that in our Series II SF Forester. It looks like the compressor in the Series II has 2 less wires coming from the compressor. The compressor in the Series I has 3 wires, the Series II only has 1 wire - would this be an issue?
 
Yes you can. The 3rd wire is prob a heat switch. Not needed if your series 2 doesn't have it. Just change the plugs or get the auto sparky to do.
Is your compressor noisy or siezed?
 
We took it to a mechanic and they said that the Compressor is stuffed. The a/c kept going hot so we cleaned the in cabin filters but that didn't do anything so we took it to a mechanic to have it regassed and the mechanic said the compressor was on its way out but regassed it anyway, he also completely removed the in cabin filters as they were dirty again from our last offroad trip. The a/c was still going hot so we took it back and the guy said that the compressor was stuffed.
 
If its not noisy or seized its not the compressor. That will not cause it to go hot. Could be a blocked TX vakve which is in the evaporators in Subarus. Ive had to do the one in my 2001 forester. Pressures were getting too high and the compressor would cut out.
The heat switch could be causing it to cut out but that can be bypassed. Not all models habe them and they aren't needed.
I don't mean to be rude about such said mechanic but I recommend you go to an auto sparky that does aircon. Most mechanics know the basics and don't specialise in electrics or aircon.
Does it go hot when driving or only when stopped idling? Cool or completely warm as if its turned off? If you have the bonnet up you will see the magnetic clutch on the front of the compressor cut in and out as the thermo stat cuts it in and out. When it goes warm is the clutch engaged and spinning?
 
It does it while driving, it goes completely warm as if it has been turned off and seems to make it really humid.

There is a noise but not sure if it is the alternator or the compressor.
 
Kevin said:
I'm interested - so can you get this in small quantities? (the Hychill site says 9KG - enough for 27 cars!)
Click to expand...

Sorry for the late reply! I believe you can get in an aerosol like can - but I've never purchased it myself. I got Ruby Scoo's done at a mate's place.

I now need to do Redback's AC and possibly replace the compressor :(

Cheers

Bennie
 
I would highly not recommend hychill.. we used it for abit and found it to eat pipes in older systems. It can cause funny pressures and do weird things to certain systems. Plus its highly flammable!!

If you need a new compressor Elfreddo I found a place in the US that does them for a Brat/Brumby at a very good price. From what I can tell in the pics the pad and charging fittings are the same.
 
The Air Compressor has been replaced, just got to take the car for a longer drive now to make sure that it has fixed the problem, thank you for your help :)
 
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