Taza's Forester engine options

The 4 bolt to 8 bolt thing is I am told not an issue. I have even helped a mate do such a conversion on a GT Forester and no problems. But if it were me I'd like to have all the bolts in there.
 
4 - 8 bolt isn't the problem, it's the intake manifold bolt pattern that changed at the same time and if he wants to use his inlet manifold on a pre 99 2.5 motor which could possibly save many headaches it may not fit, that's what needs to be checked, buying a Foz n/a front cut or wreck would be by far the easiest option as the wiring for an Outback is completely different and a nightmare to combine the two harnesses.........did it when we put the STI gear in my Liberty, took a very experienced auto sparky and an equally experienced Subi mechanic the best part of a day sorting out what went where and getting it back in the car
 
The early h6 with single exhaust port per head can be converted with h6 factory ecu, virtually like every other retrofit. Its only the later engine with the variable cam timing and 6 exhaust ports that needs an after market ecu. Venom is the earlier simple one, dulagarl is the later one. in reality the earlier one is onl uh marginallh more dificult than any other engine conversion that requires the loom spliced with the engines matching ecu.
 
taza said:
While I can get this one for $200 inc wiring and replace the one specific valve and the heads, it's then good to go :D
I could have this one running for the price of that one :iconwink:
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I think it's time that you checked out the frankenmotor on the USMB. PLENTY of info about that high compression engine in there. Most commonly done with a set of EJ22 heads but I'm sure the EJ20 heads will work just the same.

Superu_legacy said:
if the EJ25 heads were stuffed, you could do the EJ20 on the block and get yourself a compression boost. It's feasible and awesome, but would put you in a different category for auto repair/ mods/ knowledge/ and maintenance.
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Like I said, plenty of info to read up on - this is not a modification for the light hearted. You need to understand what it is to look after it properly/repair it if the need ever arrives.

In my mind you've got 4 options:

1) EJ20 replacement engine

2) EJ22 long block retro fitted and run with the stock EJ20 ECU and wiring - some intake manifold mods might be needed if the EJ20 intake doesn't fit the EJ22.

3) EJ25 conversion - either a full wiring loom conversion or to stand out with something different with the frankenmotor using the bits you've got.

4) H6 conversion - again not for the light hearted.

Cheers

Bennie
 
El_Freddo said:
I think it's time that you checked out the frankenmotor on the USMB. PLENTY of info about that high compression engine in there. Most commonly done with a set of EJ22 heads but I'm sure the EJ20 heads will work just the same.
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I'm looking into this. After talking to a mechanic(a real mechanic) all day about it while on a club trip (yes he owns a Subie but has had all sorts of cars) it could be a viable option.



Like I said, plenty of info to read up on - this is not a modification for the light hearted. You need to understand what it is to look after it properly/repair it if the need ever arrives.

In my mind you've got 4 options:

1) EJ20 replacement engine

2) EJ22 long block retro fitted and run with the stock EJ20 ECU and wiring - some intake manifold mods might be needed if the EJ20 intake doesn't fit the EJ22.

3) EJ25 conversion - either a full wiring loom conversion or to stand out with something different with the frankenmotor using the bits you've got.

4) H6 conversion - again not for the light hearted.
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The way I'm looking at it now is;

1. EJ20 replacement engine
2. EJ25 complete swap
3. EJ25 long block to replace my EJ20 long block and keep stock wiring, manifolds, etc. Using EJ20 heads if possible.

I want to look into option 3. The mechanic (Waggaclint on here) thinks that the manifold and sensors should bolt straight on from my EJ20 to the 25 LB. But again isn't 100% positive so I need to look into this. If this will work it means little down time on the car not having to do the wiring and would give me more power than the EJ20 :cool:

How does that sound Bennie?

H6 is too expensive(aftermarket ecu needed and much custom work) and with a full engine swap(EJ25 swap) it could be weeks with downtime on the Foz and with the L forsale to pay for this to happen I won't have that :(
It's gonna be missed but has to go..
Plus a franken motor is different which is what I want and would probably have enough power all round to stop me complaining and do the tasks I need.
 
taza said:
The way I'm looking at it now is;

1. EJ20 replacement engine
2. EJ25 complete swap
3. EJ25 long block to replace my EJ20 long block and keep stock wiring, manifolds, etc. Using EJ20 heads if possible.

I want to look into option 3. The mechanic (Waggaclint on here) thinks that the manifold and sensors should bolt straight on from my EJ20 to the 25 LB. But again isn't 100% positive so I need to look into this. If this will work it means little down time on the car not having to do the wiring and would give me more power than the EJ20 :cool:

How does that sound Bennie?
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It sounds pretty good I reckon. Only problem is working out the intake manifold fit to really reduce the down time if it fits.

Cheers

Bennie
 
My mate has a virtually new 2.5 short block for sale, it's the 8 bolt pattern but that should make no difference, just not sure if your computer would cope with a 2.5 and your heads and intake but it would be a good way to go if it worked.......he's also got a complete late low K H6 with complete wiring harness and computer for $1,500 lol.
 
Done some tests in my foz. Did a 0-110km/hr video today. Did it in 22 seconds counting. Checked against.vid of the exact same accelerations from July 2010 when I got the car. It did it unjust under 13 seconds...
I hate my car! Lol it's sooo slow :(
 
That is slow! Thats with your big tyres? I'd really be looking at 4.44 diffs, even when you get your EJ25 in. Speaking of which, any ideas when thats happening?
 
No not much from the big tyres. Mainly.because.the motor is tied and worn out. Pulling power it takes half a minute from 100 to accelerate to 115 kmhr.
It tops out at about 130kmhr too, when it gets there... Lol
Now you might understand why I use low range 90% of the time onroad and why I think an ej25 is like a v8 in.comparison :P
 
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Even a good running 2.0 would be like a rocket compared to your 2.0.
I use 205/75/15 grabber tires and my 2.0 SF has no problem with 160km/ph on cruise controle on the german autobahn, even with some slopes in south germany and the LPG conversion I use and 350.000km on the odo
Imho a 2.0 isn't fast by far. But it's more than sufficient.
 
casperfromholland said:
Even a good running 2.0 would be like a rocket compared to your 2.0.
I use 205/75/15 grabber tires and my 2.0 SF has no problem with 160km/ph on cruise controle on the german autobahn, even with some slopes in south germany and the LPG conversion I use and 350.000km on the odo
Imho a 2.0 isn't fast by far. But it's more than sufficient.
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I found even with the motor healthy it was ok, offroad(in sand) it still lacked power in comparison to an EJ25. You just have to work it much harder to do the same work..
But as it is now it's a pig. Hideous to drive, I just don't think about it and rarely take it far at the moment.. 160km/hr on cruise control??? really!, it'd be doing about 4300rpm! 350,000km is good. My 2nd motor(current one, was used with unknown condition and 230,000km) is slower than almost anything you'd ever drive.

stilson said:
I think Taza runs his engines on beach sand. ;D
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Well the old one ran without an air filter for awhile so your correct there.. :lol:

mr turbo said:
How's the hunt for your new engine going, any news yet ?
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I got one but can't get it till mid Jan... It's 1/4 of the price that all the wreckers wanted too and I know the condition/history of it :iconwink:
 
mr turbo said:
How's the hunt for your new engine going, any news yet ?
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taza said:
I got one but can't get it till mid Jan... It's 1/4 of the price that all the wreckers wanted too and I know the condition/history of it :iconwink:
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Bet you can't wait till the end (mid) Jan :ebiggrin: And knowing the history is even better :iconwink:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
mr turbo said:
Bet you can't wait till the end (mid) Jan :ebiggrin: And knowing the history is even better :iconwink:
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Yeah I'm really excited. In the mean time I've been working on other stuff on the car. Dual Battery System, Under bonnet air compressor mounted, HID spotties, Stereo, Tidying wiring, Accessory camping lights, etc...

I am rebuilding the heads on the motor and adding all new seals(and piston/oil rings) aswell.. That should make it near new.. I am just researching into a tune for the car now.
When the motor is in I will need the 2.0l computer to supply more fuel to the bigger 2.5l block. From what I've read on reliable tuning sitesm tuning a EJ25 N/A will give me around 130Kw and 245Nm of torque over the stock 115Kw and 223Nm. Then in comparison to my tied motor ~80-85Kw and ~165Nm. I also have some bolt on modifications to add a few extra hp too :iconwink:
Should give the car a heap of power :lildevil: Then I can go proper offroad :twisted: Haven't been properly in over 4 months..
 
G'day again Taz

taza said:
Yeah I'm really excited. In the mean time I've been working on other stuff on the car. Dual Battery System, Under bonnet air compressor mounted, HID spotties, Stereo, Tidying wiring, Accessory camping lights, etc...
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All good stuff, mate :cool:

When the motor is in I will need the 2.0l computer to supply more fuel to the bigger 2.5l block. From what I've read on reliable tuning sitesm tuning a EJ25 N/A will give me around 130Kw and 245Nm of torque over the stock 115Kw and 223Nm. Then in comparison to my tied motor ~80-85Kw and ~165Nm. I also have some bolt on modifications to add a few extra hp too :iconwink:
Should give the car a heap of power :lildevil: Then I can go proper offroad :twisted: Haven't been properly in over 4 months..
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What I think you will find is that it is not so much the extra torque that is beneficial to you, but the flatness of the torque curve compared with that of the 2.0L N/A donk.
The 2.0L hasn't got all that much more torque than my Impreza had, and the shape of the torque curve particularly is not all that different. Usable torque in the Impreza was really only between about 3500-6500 rpm.
Quite different from the 2.5L, which is usable from around 1500 rpm all the way to the rev limiting cutout point around 6200+ rpm.
 
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