Gidday Folks

Guess I should start a journal. Seems a goodly system of keeping this stuff organised ... :poke: :lol:.

Anyway, I have fitted the OEM roof bars and Rola basket to Roo2 in the last couple of days.


E-30_JAK_2012-_4037410_Ew.jpg



Took it for a spin into town today on the Nepean Highway.

From about 70 km/h, it started to purr.

By about 80 km/h, the purr had become a more of a roar ... :( :(.

This will drive me NUTS, in short order ... Fortunately, it is my intention to fit the basket to the lid on my rebuilt trailer, where it should be out of the wind, and the noise should be well behind me ....

Will keep you posted about all this ... :iconwink: ;) :raspberry:
 
Gidday SJM

Are those figures typical of a foz of that vintage? It seems incredibly high to me. I am averaging in the mid 7's. The average over the lifetime of the vehicle (8 months, and about 23000 km) is 8.2 as reported by the B trip meter which has never been reset. I do a lot of highway driving, a lot of peak-hour city driving, and a fair bit of rocky offroading.

I really have no idea, mate.

I would LOVE to be getting your mileage!!

Roo1 usually returned around 7.5 to 8 on the highway, but suffered if a lot of running with the air-con on.

On a recent trip to Brisbane and back, I got 8.97/100 kms from Roo1 (used 386.5 L for 4,307 kms). However that was with the car fully loaded, the air-con on full most of the way, and sitting on 120 to 130 km/h. It also hadn't had a new set of plugs for around 100,000 kms ... Bad cross wind on the way up, and came back the slow, winding, hilly way until past Tenterfield. [EDIT] changed L/100 kms, as used the wrong start mileage figure ... [end edit]

Usually I got around 9.5 to 10.5 around town, depending on traffic and air-con.

ANY suggestions for what could need doing to Roo2 to improve my fuel economy gratefully accepted ...
 
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Are those figures typical of a foz of that vintage?
They sound a little high if it's compared to mine (MY05 XT)
An overall average on mine would be about 11-11.5 L /100 km's

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Gidday Mr T

They sound a little high if it's compared to mine (MY05 XT)
An overall average on mine would be about 11-11.5 L /100 km's

Regards
Mr Turbo

Suggestions as to where to look?

The plugs will be replaced at the next service, but that's around 10,000 kms away. If they, or something else, need to be done immediately, I am all ears ... :iconwink:

I love the car, but the fuel consumption around town is nearly as bad as our Camry (auto, weighs about 150 kgs less than the Fox, with a smaller engine, and considerably less grunt ... It gets around 12.5 to 13.5 around town. MUCH better on the open road - around 8.5).
 
One thing to remember is that you're driving an auto, whereas I'm driving a manual :iconwink: Correct me if I'm wrong, but the manual should be a little better (economy wise) than an auto I would think :)

I'm also getting new plugs soon too. Probably in about 3 or 4 months time I'd say.
It will be interesting to see what the difference will be once they've been changed :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
One thing to remember is that you're driving an auto, whereas I'm driving a manual :iconwink: Correct me if I'm wrong, but the manual should be a little better (economy wise) than an auto I would think :)


Ah. Well now. Not exactly. Roo2 is very much a manual. 5MT, dual range.

I'm also getting new plugs soon too. Probably in about 3 or 4 months time I'd say.
It will be interesting to see what the difference will be once they've been changed :)

Regards
Mr Turbo

I am wondering if there is something obvious that could be causing my fuel consumption to be as high as this?

While I occasionally sink the slipper into it, generally since getting Roo2 my driving has become more gentle, mainly because the gearing and torque are so much better than Roo1. I just tend to be smoother and gentler about it. Mostly keep between about 1500-3500 rpm. With Roo1, I often took it to 5500+, particularly in first and second.
 
I am wondering if there is something obvious that could be causing my fuel consumption to be as high as this?

The right foot? lol :raz:

I think keeping between about 1500-3500 rpm is a little, low, I'd aim for 2000-3300rpm, you will use more fuel at 1500 as its below its power band.

I'd also get your PCV valve and O2 sensor checked. I did mine a few months ago and my economy has dropped from mid 11s to just under 10L/100kms
 
Gidday NL

The right foot? lol :raz:

:ebiggrin:

I think keeping between about 1500-3500 rpm is a little, low, I'd aim for 2000-3300rpm, you will use more fuel at 1500 as its below its power band.


I don't think that's likely to be it. At 1500, the 2.5 is within about 15-20% of its maximum torque figure. By around 1800, it is more or less at it.

I'd also get your PCV valve and O2 sensor checked. I did mine a few months ago and my economy has dropped from mid 11s to just under 10L/100kms

That sounds as if it might be more like it.
I also suspect that the plugs might need a good seeing to as well.

Roo2 certainly doesn't feel as if it is struggling in any way, at any speed. Seems to be an extremely willing performer. In fact, it goes like the clappers at need. IOW, there don't seem to be any sort of symptoms of the engine operating less than optimally.
However, as I said before, I really don't have any sort of experience with this vehicle/engine to guide me either ... :confused: :shrug:
 
Recovery gear ... straps & shackles

Gidday All

Went down to SCA (Super Cheap Autos) today and bought the rest of my recovery gear, all 'Ridge Ryder' branded:
  • 2 x 3.2 tonne WLL bow shackles for the front tie down points (19 mm pin)
  • 4,000 kg SWL (8,000 kg MBS) Load distribution strap ("equalizer strap")
  • 2,500 kg SWL (5,000 kg MBS) Snatch strap ("4WD recovery strap")
  • 3,250 kg SWL (6,500 kg MBS) Tree trunk protector strap
Methinks this should all be OK.
The shackle on my winch has a (marked) 1.6 tonne SWL ... but a (2,500 - WRONG) 2,400 kgs rolling WLL.

All up cost $137 - nothing was on special, but the guy gave me 10% off shelf prices :). Very nice of him :ebiggrin:.
 
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Gidday Barry

My kit is all SCA as well Ratbag, when I read reviews on snatch straps they were well regarded.

Do yours have similar ratings to the ones I have chosen?

Guy in the shop also thought that using heavier rated straps was likely to rip the front off the Forester. May be useful if I need to help a fully-loaded 3.5 tonne Landcruiser out of a bog :rotfl:
 
gday ratbag.
simular package to mine except i got my shackled off ebay the brand is black rat. i also didn't buy a tree trunk protector, just the equalizer strap and the snatch strap. and for the rear i brought a rear tow hitch that slides into the tow bar.

does this mean you will be taking the forester offroad more often? :iconwink:
 
any more news on your fuel economy?
in our 04 forester which is auto, iam getting better fuel economy then that. i dont ever realy use anymore then 10l per 100km. it usually sits around thr 9-9.5 to and from uni, on the freeway home around the 8l per 100km.
i would assume being a well looked after vehicle the service intervals would be up to scratch with filters etc?
 
Gidday Thunder

gday ratbag.
simular package to mine except i got my shackled off ebay the brand is black rat. i also didn't buy a tree trunk protector, just the equalizer strap and the snatch strap. and for the rear i brought a rear tow hitch that slides into the tow bar.

I will use the square box thingy pin for the rear attachment point.

does this mean you will be taking the forester offroad more often? :iconwink:

Not really. The main reason for buying this gear is that if I get stuck, and some good samaritan wants to help me extricate myself, it is not necessarily the fact that they will have suitable recovery gear with them.

A unique "feature" of our vehicles is that they do not have a front sub-frame or strong anchor point up until the MY08 and later models with the recovery eye bolt provision. We have to use the tie down points (which look pretty flaming strong to me; but then, I'm not an engineer).
Therefore a load distribution strap is essential to avoid the slightly "stretch-limo" effect on one side ... And bow shackles to attach this to the tie down points. The rest is pretty standard fare.
 
G'day again Thunder

any more news on your fuel economy?
in our 04 forester which is auto, iam getting better fuel economy then that. i dont ever realy use anymore then 10l per 100km. it usually sits around thr 9-9.5 to and from uni, on the freeway home around the 8l per 100km.
i would assume being a well looked after vehicle the service intervals would be up to scratch with filters etc?

Nah. Still much the same.

I need to back all the plugs out and check and gap them. AND make certain they are the right heat range. To do that, I need my shoulders to get better than they are ... :(.

What is surprising to me is that the performance of the vehicle is excellent. So this pretty well rules out an overly "tight" engine; worn rings; poor valve seating; etc, etc.

Really is a bit odd :confused:.
 
I got the same snatch & distribution strap and 2x 3.2t + 4.7t Black Rat shackles from ebay. Using an old back pack and leather gloves. Total cost $125-

Still need to get a strap dampener (bag that goes on the snatch strap to slow it down if something breaks). The ones I've seen are pretty useless as they just slide along the strap as the cars move and get caught under the trailing car :(
 
Gidday NL

I got the same snatch & distribution strap and 2x 3.2t + 4.7t Black Rat shackles from ebay. Using an old back pack and leather gloves. Total cost $125-

I bought a tree-hugger as well ... I am VERY surprised you left this bit off ... :iconwink: :ebiggrin: :raspberry:.
Cost about $36 extra.

Still need to get a strap dampener (bag that goes on the snatch strap to slow it down if something breaks). The ones I've seen are pretty useless as they just slide along the strap as the cars move and get caught under the trailing car :(
I really cannot see how these are supposed to work?? In fact, they appear to be all but completely useless, AFAICT.

IMHO, the only way to ensure control of this potentially deadly situation is to have something like a longer 1/2 to 1" rope loosely attached along the snatch, or winch cable or rope. The fixings should allow the snatch to stretch, but not allow 'bunching' of the fixings to the whip control rope along its length - i.e. maintain their spacing at all times. It is not intended that this control line would ever be able to take any kind of vehicle load.

[EDIT] Actually, just worked out how to do this.

Making the control line:

  • Measure snatch strap at maximum stretch.
  • Cut appropriate rope to somewhat longer than this maximum stretch length.
  • 'Work' metal snap clips through the control line rope at intervals along its length.
USE:


  • Attach the snatch and load distribution strap to the two vehicles.
  • Attach the ends of the control line rope to each vehicle.
  • Attach control line clips to the snatch strap.
  • Snatch vehicle.
  • Remove control line from the snatch.
  • Stow snatch and control line back in vehicle.
[End edit]
 
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the bags actually work very well.
my kit is very simular to your nachulva except i think my shackels are 3.2t not 4.7, although i do have a an extra 4.7 for just in case.
i havnt done my spark plugs since i got the car they have been in there since about 100,000 so about 60 thousand now, but i have been getting the best fuel economy lately since i brought the car even with a dirty air filter.
hopefully you can sort out the fuel economy issue, but it could be your driving style, i usually change gear at 3,000rpm maybe 3,800 if i need to and dont let it get below about 1800rpm and i am getting around 8.5-9l per 100km around town to and from uni
 
Still need to get a strap dampener (bag that goes on the snatch strap to slow it down if something breaks)
Until you find a decent dampener, just keep an old jacket / jumper with you.
That will work too :iconwink:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Hey Ratbag,

Great journal so far! A very enjoyable read mate.

Nice beast.

With regard to fuel economy, I'm getting between 8.6 and 9.4 litres per 100km (depending on what I'm doing). That's in my manual 2007 Foz X.

Keep the journal going (add some pics if you can - everyone loves pics! :rotfl: )

Cheers!

Steve
 
I bought a tree-hugger as well ... I am VERY surprised you left this bit off ... :iconwink: :ebiggrin: :raspberry:.
Cost about $36 extra

No need...I am a tree hugger! :rotfl:

I just dont have a need for one as I dont have a winch

IMHO, the only way to ensure control of this potentially deadly situation is to have something like a longer 1/2 to 1" rope loosely attached along the snatch, or winch cable or rope. The fixings should allow the snatch to stretch, but not allow 'bunching' of the fixings to the whip control rope along its length - i.e. maintain their spacing at all times. It is not intended that this control line would ever be able to take any kind of vehicle load.

[EDIT] Actually, just worked out how to do this.

Making the control line:

  • Measure snatch strap at maximum stretch.
  • Cut appropriate rope to somewhat longer than this maximum stretch length.
  • 'Work' metal snap clips through the control line rope at intervals along its length.
USE:


  • Attach the snatch and load distribution strap to the two vehicles.
  • Attach the ends of the control line rope to each vehicle.
  • Attach control line clips to the snatch strap.
  • Snatch vehicle.
  • Remove control line from the snatch.
  • Stow snatch and control line back in vehicle.
[End edit]

trouble with this is if any fitting breaks, then the whole lot with extra metal snaps go flying thru the air.
If you use a separate attachment point then when something lets go, the tow vehicle keeps going and the control line comes under considerable tension. As its not a snatch it will certainly break, or tear off the other attachment points...and the lot goes flying.

Its a good bit of lateral thinking but remember, people have been snatching for many decades. This really is the best and really only way to do it.

The golden rule of snatching is use the minimum amount of equip as possible...less to go wrong.
 
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