EJ 4.11 with 1.59

Because they aren't Land Rovers, and they never will be. They are for a different purpose. I intend to use them for that different purpose.
 
The way I see it, a higher final drive ratio reduces strain on drivetrain where as a higher DR ratio increases strain on drivetrain.

I may be losing my sense of adventure but I'm tempted to settle for 1.447 with a 4.44 final drive an have an easier build and more robust gearbox to boot.
 
It has been proven that a 5sp EA82 box in low range can handle 300hp EJ and 33" Super Swampers.

Like I said, for me it is all about the long range highway driving that I choose to stick with the 4.11
 
I agree Stilson, If i ever have the time and money to fit a dual range box to my Diesel it will be fitted with 4.444 FD and 1.447 reduction gears. The overall gearing with 4.444 FD and 1.447 is nearly the same as 4.111 fd and 1.59 reduction gears. but the stress on the clutch and gearbox and diffs is so much less.

Fit a AWDS custom 5th gear ratio and you fuel econ on the freeway will be the same if not better as well.
 
You're right of course Phiz, I don't know how much custom gears are but they must be 10 times what you paid for your 1.59 at least.

You don't get much for $42 usually.

My DCCD box comes with 4.44 and my rear LSD came with 4.44 so they're not adding any cost. If I can find a good 1.447 box I can leave my low k 1.19 box unmolested.
 
Nice calculation Biesel !

Could you calculate the overall drive with 1,44 low range and 4,11 FD, should be something like 20ish ? Thanks !
 
Hi Phizinza, I have nearly finished the 1,59:1 conversion and it was "easy" thanks to your thread. Thank you very much for sharing :)
 
Gidday ST & All

stilson said:
You're right of course Phiz, I don't know how much custom gears are but they must be 10 times what you paid for your 1.59 at least.

You don't get much for $42 usually.
Click to expand...

In the early 1970s, I had a special set of final drive gears made for my Austin Kimberley. Increased the ratio from 16.9 mph/1000 revs to 22.5 mph/1000 revs (from approx 27 to 36 kmh/1000 revs in top).
FW Hercus Engineering in Adelaide made them. Cost $280 in 1974, IIRC.

That's a heap of money in today's terms - about $2,000+. These were helical cut sidewinder gears. Not under-engineered, either ... :iconwink:. FW Hercus reckoned they looked as if they came out of a Mack truck ...

The car had a 2.2L SOHC in-line 6 cylinder donk with bucket/shimmed tappets (no rocker arms/valve train lash ... ), with twin 1 3/4" SU carbies, cross flow head and extractors. Revved its rings off to over 7000 rpm. The FD gearing let it down badly. 4Spd baulk ring synchro box.

Knowing what I now know about torque curves and the like, I should have gone to at least the next step up, and possibly two steps up. Can't recall the ratio of the pinion to crown wheel in tooth numbers.

In any case, the change made a HUGE difference to the performance of the car, and dropped the revs at 100 kmh from around 4,000 to around 3,000. Fuel economy improved markedly, in spite of my then driving habits ... :iconwink: :lildevil:.
 
Did some nice offroading this weekend and I must say that the 1,59:1 is a REAL bonus, I think the best mod in my Foz so far !
 
Very good mods!
That;s something that i want to do to my car...hopefully soon.... ;-)
Thank u all for sharing!
Ted
 
Going to attempt this at some point in the not too distant future.
Was originally going to pay someone but with all the spare parts I have lying around and all the tools/machinery available to me at home or work I might aswell attempt it.

Being an 8 bolt box that I'll probably do it on I believe there is a decent amount of work involved.
Was it not possible to find a bearing in the size you needed rather than machining a sleeve? I believe Alpine Raven did this on Ausubaru in his write up of the 1.59 conversion.

Phizinza... at the same time I'd like to install a sti 20kg centre diff I have. Is it a matter of just changing in and out or do back-lashes and adjustments need to be made?
As I'd like to install a 6 speed STI front torsion diff while the box is openI am aware there is more work involved there which might be better left to the professionals.
I haven't played with these Lego like boxes enough to completely grasp the complexity of them.
 
The centre diff id a fixed unit, no backlash adjustment on them. Just slot it right on the splines and good to go. I also think you need one from the right era though, so using an 8 bolt box you'll want a centre diff from an 8 bolt 5speed.

You will have to adjust backlash on the front did. Professionals use special tools, they measure the torque required to rotate the diff output and they also use paint on the gears to see where the gears are meshing. I believe this is important when pumping through 400HP but with an n/a engine I highly doubt you'll have a problem with doing it my way. I just tightened up the left side till there was just no backlash on the gear, tighten up the right until the bearings felt they were snug like a trailer wheel bearing. I then made adjustments to both to ensure the minimum feelable backlash was on the pinion and ring gears on full rotation. As it turned out by ft4wd ea82 box had a ring gear machined so at one point the backlash was almost nothing and 180 degrees around it felt about 3 times to much. Nothing I could do, that's how it came from factory.
 
After a 350km round trip to pick up a spare EJ25 I found time this arvo to rip open one of the L-Series gearboxes I had at home.

All was fairly straight forward(having never opened a gearbox before). I did however have a few minor issues taking off the transfer case at the rear. Once that was off I was away.

Inspecting the box(expecting it to be blown after being behind an EJ22 for a number of years) and found it to be fairly straight. I grasped the concept of how the low range works, which is quite simple.

I'll disassemble it tomorrow and go from there.
I might get a used AWD box off gumtree to test it in as I'd rather not destroy my good box in my Foz.
 
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