Melbourne to Esperance and return via Lake Eyre, 2011

[dirtyRU]

He's going to have to take this & turn it into a book... "The adventures of Dulagarl & her trusty sidekick, Greg"

 

[dogman]

Do you like your BFG's> How do they perform for you in different terrain?
I like your canopy. I would like to get one. How much does one of them run, if you don't mind me asking.

 

[dxd]

I've been enjoying reading this and seeing the pictures. Thank you for sharing

 

[Dulagarl]

Do you like your BFG's> How do they perform for you in different terrain?
I like your canopy. I would like to get one. How much does one of them run, if you don't mind me asking.

The BFG's are good, however I now have Cooper ATR's on the front and will have them on the rear when those tyres need replacement. I prefer the coopers: price, tread pattern suits me better (I drive a lot on sand), and it's nice to have the warranty.


Yhe canopy is what we call an awning over here: cost about $300 and was money well spent. Takes F.A. time to set up and makes a huge difference in sun and rain.

Mine is a TJM, but there are other makes.

https://www.tjm.com.au/#gen_view_cat.php?sx=SX2050

 

[Kevin]

BTW - are you sure those are termites? They look like big ants (bull ants perhaps)

 

[Dulagarl]

BTW - are you sure those are termites? They look like big ants (bull ants perhaps)

I didn't ask them, but yes I reckon they are. Bear in mind that it is the closest close up that I could do with a 50mm lens. Also, the saltbush berry is not particularly big, in fact it is larger than life in the pic.

 

[Kevin]

Hmmmm - termites have fat waists I thought whereas they look like Posh Spice. You should've asked them Greg :lol:

 

[Dulagarl]

Hmmmm - termites have fat waists I thought whereas they look like Posh Spice. You should've asked them Greg :lol:

Yeah, probably should have asked them. Anyways, can't let facts get int he way of a good yarn.

(Translation: They are ants)

:lol: - and a good yarn it is indeed!

 

[Dulagarl]

Another installment to complete Day 12...

It’s not a particularly long drive to Lake Gilles from Port Augusta, and at that time of day the light made it immensely enjoyable. The sense of dryness at the edge of remoteness had a rough sensation, made all the better by the bent music I was listening to. I hadn’t previously realised that I had “Yellow Tow Truck” as a bonus track to “The Fireman’s Curse”, and was pretty stoked when it came on. It seemed fitting to be listening to rants about taking a yellow tow truck into “the big country”.

I was soon passing the hilariously named Iron Knob. A picture was a must…

It was neither as prosthetic / phallic as the name might suggest, but rather a substantial mining enterprise.

Soon after, the long straights began. There would be many of these, and some very long. This one was only about 40kms long, but nonetheless a great sight when behind the wheel of a rumbling beast.

About 75 kms from Iron Knob the turnoff to Lake Gilles Conservation Park was marked to the right: Lewis and Savage were right with their directions again. Changing down rapidly through the gears from fifth to second I decelerated and threw the Dulagarl into the right hander and on to the gravel. A slower drive along the north bound track soon had me approaching the lake.

The southern edge of the lake is accessible by 2wd, and there are many tracks around that area. The time of day made for sumptuous light in the conditions, and with the exception of a campervan some distance from the shore there was no-one else around.

The best time of the day for photography would soon be upon me, and the prospects were good.

An obligatory sign explaining some of the natural history…

Other points of interest to the park include the fact that among the vegetation species is the Myall tree, a slow growing feature of the Nullarbor which can live for up to 250 years. Some of them will show up in later instalments. Another interesting feature of the park is that it is home to the “Dinosaur Ant” (which is definitely not a termite Kevin): an ancient species which is nocturnal and lives in old growth mallee woodland. The Dinosaur Ant is the world’s oldest living species of ant. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any.

Back to the lake itself…

You may recall some mention in the “obligatory sign” about crystals. Lake Gilles has plenty of them, and as the sun got lower, they made themselves apparent in stunning fashion.

I knew that this would only get more spectacular, so I rushed to locate a suitable camp spot and settle in for what I anticipated would be a stunning sunset.

Ok, camp located close to the lake, now back to the task at hand...

(continues...)

 

[Dulagarl]

(Continued)

As the light in the sky changed, so too did the crystals.

With the sun getting lower, the yellow tones were soon mixed with blue.

The sunset itself was almost as spectacular as its reflection.

I have many more pictures of that particular evening, but the most spectacular ones are etched in my memory. While the camera did a pretty good job, nothing can imitate the splendour on the shores of the mostly dry lake on the edge of the Gawler Ranges which beckoned me from across the silver, yellow and blue crystals.

Tomorrow would take me to those Ranges themselves, but the evening of Day 12 was spent in camp luxuriating in the magnificence of the afternoon show at which I had been the whole audience.

 

[my04tone]

I hitched a lift late in the day from the start of the Nullarbor out through Iron Knob and only got as far as Kimba. That turn off is a lonely place to spend the day just the occasional car and the crows. I got picked up by the coppers wife from Iron Knob and dropped there on the highway. The Nullarbor was all dirt back then..

 

[Dulagarl]

A bit late with this instalment and it only covers half a day: the second half will have to wait a few days because I’ve got a bit on.

What a place to start Day 13. Being further inland from the sea under a clear overnight sky brought heavy dew on both the Dulagarl and the tent. I was now well and truly in the routine of packing the bedding as soon as I got up, and I left the empty tent to get the best of the morning light over the lake that had provided so much visual texture the evening before.

A pleasant consequence of heading west was that my body clock was not quite keeping up with the distance I was travelling, and hence as I was waking further west each day I was getting to enjoy the dawn.

I could easily have spent a lot of time at Lake Gilles, and I will definitely return there for a comprehensive exploration, probably in a spring or an autumn in the not too distant future.

The lure of another promising destination kept me going that morning, and the sun was not a long way up by the time I had made my way down the highway further west to Kimba, which prides itself on being halfway across Australia. It also has a big Galah, in front of which I felt obliged to take a picture as I am sure thousand of others have done.

For overseas readers, a Galah is also a term of polite and perhaps endearing disparagement. e,g you silly Galah. I suppose the North American equivalent might be Jackass.

As I drove into Kimba I noticed a few roadside stops where drivers are permitted to camp overnight without fee. Such stops are a feature of the Nullarbor, and are well frequented. In some cases they are positioned close to toilet blocks, and have tables and fireplaces. For me they hold no appeal whatsoever as overnight stops, given their proximity to roads, the volume of traffic on the highway, and the chin wagging culture that they attract. I suppose I am somewhat of a misanthrope in that respect, since I would rather a location like Lake Gilles than a paved car park on the side of a highway.

While I was driving up the main street of Kimba in the crisp air of a Sunday morning, an elderly lady turned her head to scowl at the growl of the Dulagarl as it resonated between shop buildings either side of the street. It was reminiscent of a scene from a TV commercial or movie where a stereotypical bad guy drives up the street drawing filthy looks from the locals. I did laugh to myself a little.

Pulling into a park with some tables and fireplaces I took the time to log on to the net and send some messages and emails, then went to a roadhouse for some fuel and set off in the direction of Buckleboo station adjoining the Gawler Ranges.

I wasn’t quite sure what to expect of the Gawler Ranges. The literature I had read indicated that it was suitable only for high clearance 4wd’s, other than a few access roads which could be accessed by 2wd. Obviously, I would be doing my best to avoid any roads of the latter variety, since invariably one is more likely to encounter *gasp* people in such places. I also knew that it was mainly volcanic in origin and provided suitable habitat for Yellow Footed Rock Wallabies, which are a threatened species and usually pretty timid.

The road in through Buckleboo station was not too bad: The occasional washout and plenty of cattle grids. I was soon at the turnoff to the Park itself.

My initial impression of my first glimpse of the Ranges was that they were not particularly spectacular: rather mound shaped and not quite as impressive as the Flinders. Nonetheless, the area had a remote feel to it and a true sense of the outback. On the plains Myall trees grew and long grasses shimmered in the light breeze.

Near the Park entrance was the large shearing shed of the former Paney Homestead which was one of the earliest stations in the area having been established in the early 1850’s, about 11 years after Edward John Eyre had been the first European to visit the area. Still, the area smelled of sheep **** and wool fat, not unlike the lanotec smell on some of the Dulagarl’s under body components.

I wondered whether there would be enough in the 166,000 hectare park to keep me amused: I didn’t need to wonder for long.

Red earth. Nothing like it. I really am like a pig in sh#t when it comes to the red soils of places like the Pilbara, Central Australia and the Western Desert. In fact, the Gawler Ranges present as a bit of a mixture of the Pilbara and Central Australia, made all the appealing by the contrast of deep blue skies.

I could have got out of the vehicle at that point and hoofed it up the hill for a vantage point, but I knew that there were plenty of attractions as a made my way along LP Track towards Kolay Mirica Falls.

It was lunch time, or at least my stomach was telling me that it was. I took advantage of the shade of the campground at Kolay Hut, and after a feed and a chat with a couple of fairly committed bushwalkers I strung up the hammock for a nap through the hottest part of the day.

(continued…)

 

[dirtyRU]

Looks like Dulagarl is haulin that biga** bird on the roof!

 

[mr turbo]

Looks like Dulagarl is haulin that biga** bird on the roof!

It sure does :lol:

What a fantastic pic, I really like that one

Sounds like another great day was being had. Really looking forward to hearing all about the second half of the day (day 13)

Regards
Mr Turbo

 

[Dulagarl]

^ Thanks Mr Turbo. That is a favourite of mine too.

Ok, Day 13 continues...


Travelling with a hammock easily sets you up for one of the true luxuries of travel in the bush: a nap after lunch. Instead of getting hot and tired during the hottest part of the day one can rejuvenate while zoning out to be only half tuned in to the sounds of the bush. In this instance, the occasional twenty eight parrot and mulga parrot, a few honeyeaters, and the inevitable raven punctuated my half sleep, while fortunately very few flies interrupted my relaxation. The trickle of a nearby creek brought with it the occasional waft of moist cool air in the shade.

Revived, I set off for an afternoon of exploration, and the first stop was the nearby Kolay Mirica Falls.

The most impressive feature of the Gawler Ranges is its age. Once you understand just how old these ranges are, you begin to appreciate the geography in a different way.

1592 million years is very old rock. It is estimated that some 1600 million years ago, animal, plant and fungi kingdoms had first split. It was about 700 million years before arthropods (organisms with jointed feet such as trilobites, spiders, crabs) developed from chordates (organisms with spines), and hundreds of millions of years before the first fossils. It was about 1000 million years before the super-continent of Gondwana, which comprised all land on earth, began to split into smaller continents, conciding roughly with what is known as the Cambrian explosion.

https://www.fossilmuseum.net/Paleobiology/CambrianExplosion.htm

Another way to appreciate the age of the rocks of the Gawler Ranges is to consider that they are over a tenth of the estimated age of the universe (13.7 billion years). They are as old as the approximate period of time that it will take the Fremantle Dockers to win an AFL premiership, and for the Mitsubishi Outlander to evolve into something resembling an off-road vehicle. On current estimates, their age in years is slightly less than the odds against the Labor Party winning the next federal election in Australia, but only about one thousandth of the number of dollars of the U.S. national debt. ($14.71 trillion as at 9 September 2011).

25,000 square kilometres, the estimated size of the lava flow from the eruptions that made these ranges is about the size Vermont in the USA.

Figures like that make the rocks look different…

One would hardly expect to find waterfalls among the spinifex fringed hills and rhyolite outcrops, particularly at this end of summer. There was however a surprising amount of evidence of recent water, and new growth caused by generous rains over the Australian interior from the previous winter which was followed by summer storms.

Moving on from Kolay Mirica, I headed towards Pondannna outstation, encountering Eureka Bluff (431m) along the way. Bearing in mind the age of the geology, this was obviously once much bigger, and the valleys which now appear as plains were once much deeper. I was in fact driving on rocks that were once part of the ranges. It reminded me of how Uluru is sedimentary rock formed from the Musgrave and Petermann Ranges, which in turn were once part of perhaps the highest mountain range on the planet: higher than the Himalayas are now. (Incidentally, Uluru as a formation is only about a fifth of the age of these rocks).

The afternoon was getting on, and I passed through a number of gullies in the vicinity of Pondanna outstation. Approaching Conical Hill, the track rose significantly, and the torque of the H6 made the rocky climb much easier than a 2.5 litre boxer would have done. Wash-aways from summer rains were obvious

Nearing the top, a Myall tree in flower further demonstrated the abundance of recent rains.

It is easy to see how the early pastoralists, as in so much of the arid interior, would have been fooled that the land could support sustained agriculture. One gets the illusion that the rolling hills and valley go on forever.

(another obligatory sign…)

I got back behind the wheel, and took in the view for a little longer through the windscreen before continuing on the track. This was really a rewarding moment. Such a view, a magnificent afternoon, a great vehicle and the promise of cold beer in camp. I had seen no-one since the two gentlemen I had seen back at Kolay Hut, and had seen no-one else since leaving Kimba. You feel privileged at times like this, as though nature has turned on the show just for you.

Destination: Kododo Hill,

There wasn’t much time for photography of any quality as the shadow of the hill I was camped at crawled up Kododo Hill (413m) to the east of me, but the view itself was spectacular. Gazing at that range, the colours changing and shapes appearing to shift is a sight and experience I will remember for a long time. It is a truly special place.

Once I got dinner out of the way, I relaxed for the evening with a brilliant star-filled sky, and wondered which of the stars and galaxies before me were 1592 million light years away…

 

[d_generate]

Excellent story and pictures so far, do you write/photograph as a profession by any chance? You certainly have a way with words, definitely more than Mr average.

 

[mr turbo]

........ do you write/photograph as a profession by any chance? You certainly have a way with words, definitely more than Mr average.

That's for sure

This has to be, by far, the best trip report I have ever read :biggrin: It's fantastic
Can't wait for the next installment & day 14

Regards
Mr Turbo

 

[Dulagarl]

Excellent story and pictures so far, do you write/photograph as a profession by any chance? You certainly have a way with words, definitely more than Mr average.

Thanks.

No, not writing of this kind anyway. I'd like to though...


Anyways, comments like this and yours too Mr Turbo are nice encouragement. they make it easier to keep going. I still have weeks to write about, but the process of writing this blog is nice for me too: it keeps the memories alive and cements them.

So, here's day 14!!!!




Once again heavy dew accompanied a morning of fresh crisp air and clear sky. Day 14 started with light as sumptuous as that which had started day 13. I was now north of the 33rd parallel, with my home of Melbourne almost exactly 5 degrees south and about 10 degrees east. I felt like I had made up for time lost in the Coorong.

Today would see me through Ceduna, and somewhere along the coast on the edge of the Nullarbor.

I hadn’t quite finished with the Gawler Ranges yet and had determined to stop by at least one more point of interest before I left. I was soon on the road and heading towards Yandinga Falls on the Minnipa – Yardea Road when my eye was caught by a flash of brilliant green. It could only have been one of the varieties of grass parrot or Neophema, and excited that it might be scarlet-chested parrots I stopped, grabbed my binoculars and went exploring.

I soon located the birds in question: indeed Neophemas, but Elegant Parrots rather than Scarlet Chested. I had not previously seen this species, and so from an ornithological point of view the day was off to a great start.

I didn’t manage to photograph them, but the habitat they were in was not unlike that in parts of North West Victoria.

Back on the road, and the drive was a pleasant as the view.

In the vicinity of Yandinga Falls I passed a campground where there were indeed people camped, but being completely disinterested in conversation I continued on to the falls.

Red rock and morning sky combined in strong contrast.

A Bluetongue Lizard was making the most of the morning’s solar energy.

The walk to the falls provided plenty of interest, not the least of which was the vegetation.

It really was a stunning morning to capture the colours.

The falls were as spectacular as those at Kolay Mirica, and terraced with a number of rock pools still holding water.

There were plenty of good examples of rhyolite columns, so much so that I decided that I didn’t need to visit the famed “organ pipes” further down the track: I already had the idea, and I was enjoying having this spot to myself so why would I go and look at much the same thing on a 2wd accessible track with other people?

I had a great look around, hoping to see some yellow footed rock wallabies. Whilst I found plenty of potentially suitable faeces, I had no luck in finding the marsupials themselves: Another day perhaps. I turned to make way for the car, and as nature often does it presented me with a pleasant unexpected bonus.

A Peninsular Rock Dragon! Cute little fella, about 20cm from head to tail, not particularly timid at this time of day to the extent that it at least let me get a decent shot or two with the 50mm lens.

Grinning from ear to ear I made my way back to the Dulagarl. For such a short morning of exploration, I had gathered a lot of nice memories.

The Gawler Ranges had not disappointed, and I could easily have stayed a week and would have were it not for the quality of destinations that enticed me to continue.

(continues...)

 

[Dulagarl]

(Continued)
Next stop was to be Ceduna, where I intended to refuel, get some lunch and decide the evening’s destination.

I chanced upon a track heading towards Minnipa, which was marked “Princess Hwy”. I used the GPS to zoom out, and found that it joined the Eyre Hwy further west. I headed west along it, following roughly the Goyder’s Line of 1866 which delineated what he had determined as viable and non-viable farmland.

https://www.samemory.sa.gov.au/site/page.cfm?u=247

Along the way I travelled a very good quality graded road through Mallee vegetation, on the edge of the Gawler Ranges reserve until I hit the bitumen. It turned out to be a good decision, and saved me about 50 otherwise unnecessary kilometres. I followed Goyder’s Line to it’s terminus at Ceduna,

There are plenty of good photographs of Ceduna that you can find on the web, so I won’t bother with any here. Yeah, it seems a nice place and the fish and chips were excellent. The beach looked enticing but the weather was a bit cool. The caravan park however had all the appeal of a racial segregation compound. I couldn’t help but feel that the cheek to jowl caravans behind cyclone wire were a way for travellers to make themselves feel safe from the townsfolk outside, a significant proportion of whom were Aboriginal. Stereotypes of “Parking the wagons in a circle cos there be injuns” occurred to me. The irony was made obvious when I noticed an Aboriginal works gang repairing the cyclone wire fence, and I wondered for a minute who benefitted most from the fence being there.

Anyway, towns are towns, and they don’t hold much appeal to me other than places to re-stock, and since I didn’t need to re-stock I got out quick.

I had decided over lunch that I wouldn’t follow every other ******* to Fowlers Bay, despite it’s historical significance as the departure point for Eyre in traversing the Nullarbor. I continued past Penong on towards Nundroo and topped up the tank with unleaded since it was all I could get, and paid the sh*t scared Irish backpacker in the roadhouse-cum-pub that was riddled with holes kicked through the walls.

Making the best use of Lewis and Savage that I could, I backtracked slightly from Nundroo and made my way to Wahgunya Conservation Park south of the highway. The drive in had a nicely remote feel to it and the dust from the track hung lightly in the afternoon air.

This is a detour I highly recommend, although having said that you can now expect to be inundated with every other fool who decides to take my advice.

(Acknowledgements to Craig Lewis and Cathy Savage: Camping Guide to South Australia)




I followed the directions towards Coorabie, and then towards Wandila beach. Eventually, although I was a bit uncertain, I found a sign to Cheetima beach and followed it. The names of some of the beaches were clearly ascribed to them by stoner surfers…

The track became very sandy through low Mallee vegetation, and soon opened up onto limestone and saltbush, and as the saltbush became sparser I reached the spectacular blue of the Great Australian Bight.

What a fu@king fantastic spot.

The sun glistened on the waters to the west, and cliffs rose in the distance. Those cliffs would continue pretty much all the way to the Western Australian Border, and so would I in the next few days..

Another spectacular location all to myself. Not a sign of anyone. The camp area was reportedly nestled in dunes away fro the cliffs, and with the use of the GPS I soon found the right track among many. I dropped the tyre pressures on the soft sand, and about 250 m later found a satisfactory spot to set up. I climbed a dune with a can of beer, and took it all in.

 

[Kevin]

Another brilliant installment; thanks Greg