Rally's MY04 Forrie- Poverty Pack special

Purchased second hand. Rear diff and instrument cluster replaced under warranty. First change was to fit CB UHF GME radio. Car has externally mounted windscreen aerial bracket. Just purchased set of new KYB shock absorbers- the originals have had it- will install when they arrive. Next step is to replace standard steel rims with MY99 WRX rims. Then sump guard and driving lights.
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does the dccd in lock mode operate like a true locked diff? Basically no centre diff at all? or does it still wait for slip and react by moving 50% of the power away from the slipping end to the end with traction? Basically still an LSD with a 50/50 split?

Sorry to take up your thread rally but you seem to know these subarus.
 
There are at least three different versions of the DCCD that I am aware of. The first is the 5 speed one. Being the oldest, it lacks the refinement and efficiency of the later ones but beyond that I don't have all the details. A friend of mine has one in his 22B and he has being having issues with the controller. I'm not sure how well it locks up.

The second of the DCCD's came with the MY05 (ADM). It has a tendency to clunk when say going into and out of driveways, etc, but apparently works better than the 5 speed one.

The third one is the MY06 (ADM) onwards one, which is what I have, and it is very quiet and works the best of all of them. It incorporates a plated clutch as well as the DCCD. This means that if you want, you can just run the DCCD without a controller, although I do run a controller. With the controller set to manual, and with the setting set to give 50-50 split, it is as close to a locked diff as I think you can get. When I first installed the box, I did not know what the setting were like, and I inadvertently had set the diff in this setting. The car almost refused to turn around in the driveway. When I persevered ( I though I had adjusted the handbrake too far) there was an almighty bang, and the car moved. Nothing broke, but I never did that again!

I've not really driven a DCCD car in rocky conditions where wheel lifting is common. I compete in the WRX on wet motorkhanas, and in those conditions, the diffs are brilliant and the car responds instantly. Whether they would do the same off road I cannot be certain. From limited experience I think it might take a bit of time. An easier solution to the DCCD might be an 11kg centre diff, or if really keen, a 20kg one.
 
Maybe they are, I have not been in the market for one. Last one I bought was in around 2004
 
are you upgrading the centre diff in your foz to go with the front and rear lsd or sticking with the 4kg unit?
 
Sticking with standard centre diff for now. The rear was open and that was what I really wanted to address first. I already had the front sitting around doing nothing. It's hard enough with just one car to play with and a house. WIth 2 cars, it can get out of hand. The Forrie has done alright for itself. Apart from the bull bar and sump guard, it has a dedicated rim set (MY99 WRX) with off road tyres (Geolander ATS), and a dedicated suspension set of struts and raised springs(Kings HD). So if i need to go off road, I can just swap them over. Won't be long till the WRX needs new suspension..... And a major service.
 
It's not that hard if you have a set of struts with springs ready to go in. It would be longer if you had to swap the springs on the struts. It won't be for every off road trip, just some of them. It's only 6 bolts per corner or something!
 
I've seen what you've done with your foz in fairly stock form, I'm sure ATs with lift aand LSDs all round you'll be taking it some places.
 
Do you mind me asking what sort of plated rear diff you are fitting? I've been searching hard for one for my SH. No ones been sure if anything on the market will fit, even though it's still and r160. They reckon the internals and axels can vary slightly. Now Cusco have a LSD that does fit SH diffs and carbonetic also do (not sure at this stage if they've just confirmed if the current parts fit or if they've had to make one specifically for them).
 
I'm fitting a KAAZ. There are differences between Forester models, you need to make sure the axle ends are compatible with the centre. I use Dave from A1 Tuning and Performance. He knows his stuff- specialises in Subarus- and all I can suggest is you take your car to him and drive home satisfied.
 
No, the WRX runs an R180 08 STI rear diff, which is plated LSD from the factory. It performs brilliantly on the road and on the skidpan. It is as quiet as a standard diff. The KAAZ will be quite noisy Dave tells me for the first 1,000km's. Then, with an oil change it will quieten down. Dave is setting it up to have similar characteristics to the STI diff. If an STI rear plated R160 diff was available, I would have gone with it instead. But they are as rare as rocking horse droppings.
 
What set up are you going with the KAAZ diffs?

I've just bought a front and rear KAAZ and would be curious to know what someone else recommendations.

There are three plate arrangements - out of box is race/drift. 40% less drive is performance road, 60% less is daily driver manners. I was thinking of going the 40% less for both front and rear.

Break in procedure for the KAAZ is pretty specific. Figure 8's for 30 mins with the car in nuetral around the bends. Then change the oil.
 
mr turbo said:
but I have to admit I did enter that establishment once :surprised: or twice :eek::eek: some years ago.

It was all good though, as I used to be a courier & had a few deliveries (stationary supplies etc that is) to drop off at the time as part of my job :p
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That's your story & you're stickin' to it!! :raspberry::rotfl:

Venom said:
What set up are you going with the KAAZ diffs?
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There are three plate arrangements - out of box is race/drift. 40% less drive is performance road, 60% less is daily driver manners. I was thinking of going the 40% less for both front and rear.
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Or perhaps a little extra locking rear?

Figure 8's for 30 mins
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:woohoo:

with the car in nuetral around the bends.
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Bugger! :rotfl:
 
Well, I''m using- or will try to use- an STI front diff. I'd be less aggressive on the front diff than the rear. On the rear, I'm going for maximum grip as apparently this is the set up closest to what STI have. Time will tell, and it's pretty straight forward to adjust the rear diff (removal, etc) than the front. Not looking forward to running the diff in. A mate had diffs put into his WRX and went down to a shopping centre to run them in. It was only a matter of time til the police arrived and asked him what he was doing. Turned out ok in the end once explained.
 
Vemon, very interested to see how you find the Kaaz front diff in a daily drive? did you go 1way for the front or 1.5? I agree with rally, maybe consider the 60% option for the front diff?
 
We have to remember that these KAAZ diffs in all probability were designed for competition use for events from rally to circuit racing. I don't think they were designed for our sort of work specifically. While there are benefits from running them, unless something is specifically designed for off road use where wheel lifting and such like are to be experienced, then we need to be prepared to accept they won't be true locked diffs.

The other thing to consider is that even with the milder helical front diff, you will experience a change in the steering- there will be some torque steer. How much will probably depend on the power of your engine and your driving style. If you are running non turbo, maybe you won't notice it very much. If you have a turbo, well, hang on! The turbo in my WRX comes on very hard and the steering wrestles with you. I doubt many cars on this forum would have that sort of power delivery.
 
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