Fan Cut Out Switch

  • Thread starter Thread starter tinknocker07
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While I can't help much, I got the fan cut out switch fitted with a buzzer. I just asked my auto sparky to cut power to all fans (with or without a/c running) while the switch was turned on, and the buzzer comes on too.

Regards,

Joel
 
I'll chuck this in here for the L series owners. Everything is easily returned to stock if need be ;)

wiringdiagramthermofanw.jpg


Great little setup even if I say so myself :rolleyessarcastic:

Cheers

Bennie
 
hi guys

I drove my new 2010 Forester through what I thought was about 10" water & the fan tore a 50mm slice out of the radiator. no warranty & a big bill to repair ($1100 for the radiator). I suspect that putting in a cut off switch could void my warranty. No longer confident with the vehicle in the bush outside Mt Isa. Unsure what to do about the whole thing yet. I will need to investigate further.
 
G'day Isacol & :welcome: to ORS.

Sorry to hear about the damage to your radiator :sadbanana:
Hope your back on the road soon :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
G'day & Welcome Isacol - sorry to read about that damage!

Fact is any non-clutching radiator fan has the risk of impelling itself into the radiator unless it's either switched off (for electric) or the belt is removed (for mechanical). My old Range Rover and my newer Triton have a clutching fan that will stop when it meets resistance. Other than installing a switch, make sure your air conditioning is switched off for any water crossing because a/c will make at least one fan run permanently. You can also remove the fan fuse/s (under the bonnet) if the crossing is a bit deep.

I have put my Foz thru lots and lots of water and have never damaged the radiator - I hyrolocked the engine once but the radiator was OK :lol:
 
Does anyone know if it is doable to have a cut off switch and always on switch? I could do with the cut off switch for water crossings but with all the beach and sand driving I do the engine does work hard and get hot. Especially in our 40+c summer weather combine with 100% humidity.
I haven't had the temp gauge go up above normal temp but sometimes you can smell burning...

Regards
Taza
 
Isacol said:
Thanks guys.

Has anyone used a Davis Craig thermo fan - thought they might be an option.
Click to expand...

That's basically what's already installed. They are electric fans usually as used as a replacement or as a boost for airflow.
 
El_Freddo said:
I'll chuck this in here for the L series owners. Everything is easily returned to stock if need be ;)

wiringdiagramthermofanw.jpg
Click to expand...

taza said:
Does anyone know if it is doable to have a cut off switch and always on switch?
Click to expand...

I can't see why not. All you would need is a 3 way toggle switch, like what El_Freddo has if I'm not mistaken. IE On/Off/Auto

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
or turn the a/c on - that will keep at least one fan going
 
^ If I turn the a/c on while driving on sand its like the turbo that isn't there has just blown. You loose a good percentage of power and if your really working the engine you come to a hault :(
 
You're right on that one Taza! Not only are you working the engine hard in the sand its also working hard on the AC. Not really recommended just to get your thermo fans switched on.

Spend the time to sort out an ON/OFF/AUTO switch - pretty simple once you work out the wires at the plug for the thermo. If you're good with some wiring, draw up a diagram, probe the plug at the thermos to find out which is earth, power etc - it could even be three wires at the plug for the two speed fans - in which case you'll need to work out another system that accommodates this feature.

Anything can be done with some time, patience, an aim and some effort ;) It'll just take one person to crack the ice so to speak with the two speed system to make it work properly ;)

Cheers

Bennie
 
Getting motivated to do my fan cutout switch, but I want a buzzer/dash warning light to come on when the switch is in the off position. I was thinking a 3 way On/On/On switch, one going to the ECU (auto), one to earth (on) & one to the buzzer (Off) (adapted fro El Freddos diagram):

dvtv.jpg


But I dont think this works...the "off" will switch the relay on :(

Need help! lol
 
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Gidday NL

I think that you just need a double pole switch.

One side wired to the fans as per your diagram, the other pole wired only to power and your buzzer/warning light.

The first pole will switch the fans as desired without having any effect on the warnings. The second pole will switch the warnings in synchrony with the settings of the first pole, but will not switch the fans. i.e. The two circuits are switched at the same time, but remain separate electrically.

I guess that's one of the purposes for which double pole switches were invented :).
 
Sent you a pm, I'll draw a diagram and post it up in a couple of days too busy atm.

and on the a/c , Dam straight taza, I turn the a/c off before tackling a big climb, left it on a few times and run out of puff.
 
Gidday Id

The SG (>2005, anyway) automatically reduces or stops the a/c when the engine is under load - accelerating, hill climbing, etc.
 
In the SF the two fans are on seperate circuits (main fan and sub fan) in fuse box. This means you will either have to switch the supplies separately or switch the common negative (if they have a common wire that goes to the negative).

When I did mine I switched the supply to the relay control pins for the two fan relays in the fuse box. Works flawlessly and I would say easier to wire up because everything has bugger all current in it.
 
Dedman said:
When I did mine I switched the supply to the relay control pins for the two fan relays in the fuse box. Works flawlessly and I would say easier to wire up because everything has bugger all current in it.
Click to expand...

So you have Auto & off, do you have on? I also want a warning for when its off like a buzzer/dash light
 
I only wired mine up for auto and off as I didnt really see a need for on always. My foz seems to be on the cool side at the best of times. You could wire it up for always on though would need a double pole double throw switch with centre off position (which do exist)

Centre pins of the switch would go to the fan relays one side would be the supply for the relays from the ecu and the other side would be 12V positive I think (Dont hold me to that though as I would have to look at a wiring diagram as it could be that the negative is switched)

You would need 4 wires from the fuse box to the cabin for switching (no fuses as they are already fused in the fuse box.
A positive (i think) supply wire from somewhere in the cabin that is fused.

The only issue with this is that all the pins on the switch will be taken so there is no room for a buzzer... one possibility would be a triple pole double throw switch but im not sure if you can get those with centre off and its getting a tad messy.

If you had a buzzer between one of the relay control wires (probably main fan) from the ecu wires and earth it should come on when ever the ecu tries to turn the cooling fans on which might be a good option.

Or you can just have off and auto and have no issues with a buzzer :raspberry:
 
When we went to Robe a few years ago I didnt have any problems with overheating but a few of the others did. The issue is with very slow ground speed (1st low) & working the engine hard when its a hot day. If there's a tailwind there's very little air flow through the radiator.

The idea is to have the fans stay on to keep the temps down rather than wait till the temp rises which switches them on...being proactive not reactive :iconwink:

I really do want a warning buzzer/light to remind me the fans are off...nothing kills alloy heads faster than overheating!
 
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