Just bought a Patrol, anyone want my Forester?

Cheers.

Beam axle front and rear. These have massive diffs in them, which is where half their reputation comes from. I don't think a patrol was sold in USA, which i find very surprising, but then you get plenty of stuff we don't.
 
I hear you wanting to keep your Forester. I wouldn't want to either (just took me 17 months to actually sell my L-series).

All those accessories are great investments second hand for you... well done on buying a well kitted out tourer and letting the previous owner sink the dosh into it and not you. The suspension and tyres you've got there are really good actually. Don't be disappointed with those Discoverer ATR's, they're excellent tyres and in 33's, they're the perfect compromise... My Patrol runs 33" BFG All Terrains and they've got me everywhere a sane man would want to go. Your lockers can make up for quite a lot without more aggressive tread. They should be nice and quiet too on road. If you really don't want them then I might be interested in buying your wheels and tyres. :lildevil:

One concern... Have you checked the winch over? Chances are that winch hasn't seen a lot of use so make sure you disassemble it and service that winch before you need it, including the solenoid. One major reason I'm not interested in getting a winch on mine is because they need regular servicing after going through water or simply after some rain... water still gets into them and the lubricants become ineffective... just like a hot diff sucking in water. Forgive me if you've already thought of it.

Also, given that the ARB Air lockers are installed... check to see how long it takes for the compressor to be switched back on after it's shut off by the pressure sensing switch. It should reach about 150psi, filling the air tank and keeping that pressure to hold the air lockers engaged, then shut off the compressor. However, often there are little leaks in the system (usually easy fixes) that mean the compressor switches back in again after *blank* seconds. If it holds for a minute or more then that should be fine.

Speaking of the locker... those two locker switches are missing their mate... where's the switch for the compressor?

As for being slow... isn't everything compared to a Turbo Forester!!
 
As to ... 'ability'... but for big @rse Japanese trucks cutting up tracks there wouldn't be a problem. :poke:

I think you'll find it the Subarus and other softroaders that destroy tracks with their constant wheel spin.
 
I think you'll find it the Subarus and other softroaders that destroy tracks with their constant wheel spin.
Not if they are driven properly. There are tracks in parts of Australia that are several feet deep because huge heavy trucks are dragging overweight trailers and vans literally through the ground.
Smaller lighter vehicles with low ratio gears and moderate lift have the least effect.
Travel lightly should always be the aim.
Where Subis are stopped by high centre mounds the reason is clearly trucks.
 
I agree with you on most counts Barry but don't forget the massive addition to erosion that simple, good old rain can cause. If it's a hill, often the larger centre hump is because of rain washing it down but on the flat I think you're right, that's more simple to agree on. However, let's remember that it's driver technique again at the centre of that comment. People who drive a hired 4WD usually don't know when or even how to engage 4WD and just expect that the car is always in 4WD and can go anywhere. Hire cars are often fitted with the standard skinny tyres and when they don't lower the tyre pressures it makes things far worse for their forward motion and the track. Even with a well setup car with big tyres and raised suspension I've seen and heard of plenty of clowns who want to show off how far they can go without engaging 4WD especially in the sloppy stuff when the ground is more prone to damage. Just like a Subie can go far offroad in the right hands, the bigger cars can cause bigger damage if driven poorly. Education, then diligence, are keys! (This is great coming from one of the many teachers here :iconwink:)
 
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I hear you wanting to keep your Forester. I wouldn't want to either (just took me 17 months to actually sell my L-series).

All those accessories are great investments second hand for you... well done on buying a well kitted out tourer and letting the previous owner sink the dosh into it and not you. The suspension and tyres you've got there are really good actually. Don't be disappointed with those Discoverer ATR's, they're excellent tyres and in 33's, they're the perfect compromise... My Patrol runs 33" BFG All Terrains and they've got me everywhere a sane man would want to go. Your lockers can make up for quite a lot without more aggressive tread. They should be nice and quiet too on road. If you really don't want them then I might be interested in buying your wheels and tyres. :lildevil:

One concern... Have you checked the winch over? Chances are that winch hasn't seen a lot of use so make sure you disassemble it and service that winch before you need it, including the solenoid. One major reason I'm not interested in getting a winch on mine is because they need regular servicing after going through water or simply after some rain... water still gets into them and the lubricants become ineffective... just like a hot diff sucking in water. Forgive me if you've already thought of it.

Also, given that the ARB Air lockers are installed... check to see how long it takes for the compressor to be switched back on after it's shut off by the pressure sensing switch. It should reach about 150psi, filling the air tank and keeping that pressure to hold the air lockers engaged, then shut off the compressor. However, often there are little leaks in the system (usually easy fixes) that mean the compressor switches back in again after *blank* seconds. If it holds for a minute or more then that should be fine.

Speaking of the locker... those two locker switches are missing their mate... where's the switch for the compressor?

As for being slow... isn't everything compared to a Turbo Forester!!

Cheers mate. The previous owner recoiled the winch every month to make the brake wasn't going to be a problem, and he just put a brand new $600 warn solenoid on it :raz: Ive tried the lockers, they hold for well over a minute without the compressor needing to start, have seen how long it takes for it to happen though. The compressor is wired up to the standard fog light switch over the other side of the steering wheel to keep it away from the locker switches, as they are easily bumped on ;)
Cant wait to actually try it out. Im just going on what the previous owner said about the ATR's, said he'd never buy them again because they are too hard and outright dangerous in the wet. Haven't made my own opinion yet.
Just got back from a 2200km round trip on the weekend. Love it!! Rides so smooth and is real comfortable.
 
2200k's and you didn't get to try out your lockers!!?? Which highway were you on? Clearly you need to learn how to choose the "best route" otherwise known as the "most direct route", the "back blocks", the "I'm avoiding the traffic" tracks, "the highway's just a little further up here" roads... get my jist?:iconwink:

Regarding the comfort... I'm a little envious of having newer and more comfy seats. I've had a pair of WRX seats sitting in the garage for quite a while now. I still can't fit them since they're going to sit a little higher if I don't modify the Patrol's seat rails. Otherwise, the old GQ's seats are ok. Just getting a little hard for long distances. One day, one day.

One last thing... have you got any idea what it all weighs with all those accessories? Mine's got pretty much everything on it and, last time I had it weighed it was 2.6 tonnes (with me in it). At least then I know how much I can carry legally. It can't hurt to get it done so if you ever had a prang, touch wood, you'd not be screwed over by the insurers for being overloaded.
 
2200k's and you didn't get to try out your lockers!!?? Which highway were you on? Clearly you need to learn how to choose the "best route" otherwise known as the "most direct route", the "back blocks", the "I'm avoiding the traffic" tracks, "the highway's just a little further up here" roads... get my jist?:iconwink:

Regarding the comfort... I'm a little envious of having newer and more comfy seats. I've had a pair of WRX seats sitting in the garage for quite a while now. I still can't fit them since they're going to sit a little higher if I don't modify the Patrol's seat rails. Otherwise, the old GQ's seats are ok. Just getting a little hard for long distances. One day, one day.

One last thing... have you got any idea what it all weighs with all those accessories? Mine's got pretty much everything on it and, last time I had it weighed it was 2.6 tonnes (with me in it). At least then I know how much I can carry legally. It can't hurt to get it done so if you ever had a prang, touch wood, you'd not be screwed over by the insurers for being overloaded.

Ha ha, love those terms. Unfortunately it was 1100km each way to the gold coast for a wedding, in which i had to leave after work, stay over night, go to the wedding, then drive home the next day :(The car is 2412kg standard with a GVM of 3040kg. Apparently the gear comes to around 350kg approx 2750, leaving me with only 200kg, once you take me and the mrs into consideration. Will be close with the camping gear in the back. Its got the polybags in the rear, though im not sure if they actually effect your GVM or not. You'll have to chuck up some pics and specs of your GQ. Apparently VX commodore seats pretty much bolt into them?
 
Yeah, some interesting threads I've been reading on the Commodore seats but I've already got these WRX seats here and they're what I'd like to try first.

As far as GVM is concerned... it doesn't take much at all does it. Thanks to the great lot of advertising for aftermarket gear we've all got lots of it and then can't move a more than a cheese single and some dental floss in the back unless we get a legal GVM increase done. There are some businesses that specialise in this but you'll find a small proportion of 4WD suspension shops do it too. You should ask around for the costings. I'm not loading mine up big just yet but I will have to investigate it all none-the-less.

You could be worse off, how many struts has Kevin bent due to all the extra load he's been carrying?? It's six so far isn't it Kev?:raspberry::poke:
 
You could be worse off, how many struts has Kevin bent due to all the extra load he's been carrying?? It's six so far isn't it Kev?:raspberry::poke:

I've lost count, but it's fixed now! :iconwink:
 
Ok, here's a couple of pic's of my Patrol in recent trips. These were both taken in January before I wrote off a little Hyundai and had a new steel bar and lights fitted. I haven't really taken any photos of the Patrol with it since... looks heaps better now but you'll get the picture. Excuse the pun...
This one was taken on the first Lidsdale SF and Mt Airly trip back in January.
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This is one of the many trips to the Zig Zag powerlines track near Lithgow soon afterwards. "Wave rock" was just about to be climbed here.
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Nice. My brother can't decide between a GQ wagon and a GU coil cab for touring, how do you find it? What sort of gear have in it?
 
Between the GU and GQ there are a few key differences.
1. Price (well duh!): since the GU is newer they of course have a higher price tag by a few thousand usually. Let's say, a decent GU will be around $20k an equivalent GQ with a few thousand more k's will be around $12-15k.

2. The body is nicer on a GU I think (chassis and axles are by and large exactly the same)

3. The GQ has the boringly reliable 4.2 diesel. There are some GU's with the same engine until 2006 but they're even more expensive because they're sought after. Some of them even came with the factory turbo. The 3.0 litre engine in the GU's have a terribly infamous history but the more recent engines seem to be going ok. The 4.2 diesl engine (TD42) was actually designed and built with a turbo in mini trucks and small buses overseas so the engine is actually so overengineered for strength that it's tough as nails without one (as it comes in Australian GQ Patrols) and is happy to have a turbo whacked onto it without much attention to anything at all.

4. The GU interior, although only ever so slightly wider inside the cabin the best part is that the seats are a little bit comfier. However, I kind of prefer the grey and squarer look of the GQ's interior than the awful sea of brown plastic of the GU. I also find the GU's dashboard tends to block more forward vision than the GQ. My wife preferred the LandCruiser for that alone.

As for my GQ. It's a well kitted out one. I couldn't drive by without checking it out since it was going to save me a whole lot of work modifying one by myself. So, the list...

'97 GQ ST(one of the last GQ's)
4.2 diesel engine has been rebuilt with stronger pistons and many other internals to suit the addition of an aftermarket Safari turbo setup. This runs a front mounted intercooler at 10psi boost and turbo timer.
3" turbo back exhaust system fitted.
Aftermarket 140L fuel tank fitted
Boost and exhaust temp. guages
Aftermarket cruise control
Raycor fuel filter system installed running 10 micron filter
Safari snorkel
2" body lift
2" tough dog spring lift, 30mm spring spacers in the rear
4-way suspension adjustable panhard rods front and rear
285/75/16 (33") BFG All Terrain tyres
OME 2 degree caster bushes in front
Tough Dog foam cell shocks front and rear
Tough Dog steering damper (9 way adjustable)
Front control arm mounts on axle have been strengthened
Front ARB air locker with compressor under the bonnet
Standard rear LSD has been tightened a little
Glind hot water/shower system installed under bonnet
Piranha dual battery system, power sockets in rear panels
6 roof lights mounted under edge of full length roof basket - 5 forward facing, 1 rearward (operated by reverse light or by switch near tailgate)
2 Nite Stalker 200 HID's on ARB steel deluxe winch bar (I don't intend to fit a winch on it but it needed to be a winch one because of the intercooler piping)
RFI UHF CB antenna
Uniden CB radio with UHF/scanner function
GPS antenna mounted on top of snorkel
Sony bluetooth phone system (plumbed into stereo)
Jensen in-dash DVD player, flip-up touch screen, going to amp under middle row seats, 6.5" split speakers in front, 6x9's in rear walls and 6.5's in tailgate doors (read: plenty of good sound for me), two more 10" screens in the back for the kids.

There's probably something I've forgotten about but anything worth mentioning is there. This is all the stuff added to what's already a great machine in ST spec. Most of this was already there when I bought it so it represented excellent value for money. The receipts that came with the car even shows the work done on the engine alone was worth a lot of money that I would never have spent in a pink fit. All the suspension was only a couple of months old too so I was wrapped with it. So far, I still am. It's just a pain that it's relatively expensive to run compared to the old Subie... any Subie for that matter.

Overall, for touring, it's a particularly well setup vehicle and I'm looking forward to planning an extended trip in the future. Mechanically, the GU and GQ are pretty much exactly the same in terms of strength and reliability. It's just that horrible 3.0litre engine that I'd steer away from. A LandCruiser will be more comfortable to drive but is inherantly weaker than any Patrol. I can live with the slightly stiffer seats and a little more noise in the cabin for now. As I wrote earlier, I've got some WRX seats to install plus some doubling up on sound deadening materials in a few key areas to do. That'll make it a more comfy option.

As for the GU coily cab... the utes actually come with an even bigger rear diff (think less clearance but more strength) that the competition guys sometimes go after. Comfort-wise I haven't tried a ute before so I couldn't honestly say. However, consider the price difference.. utes are usually much more expensive to buy 2nd hand and the difference is more noticeable.
 
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Seems like a pretty well set up rig you got, its amazing how similar our set ups are. Mines the factory 4.2td GU, with high flow turbo, 3" exhaust and tune, have to pay a premium for them, but wouldn't have anything less. It has 3" suspension lift and 30mm spacers in the rear, plus the twin lockers, draws, winch and rear bar.

The shower would be an awesome addition, have you got any pics of how its all set up and details on how it works?
Cheers.
 
Yeah, the setups can vary a little but most do go for a 2 or 3" lift in the end. I've got to say that if I had it my way it'd probably be a 3" lift without the body lift but it's got a lot of benefits the way it is anyway. The shower system is great but I haven't even used it yet. It took a bit of work to get it working without any pulsation (air in the system) but it does warm the water up pretty quick, as long as the engine is warm.

The setup is pretty straight forward. Electric pump, plumb the heat exchanger into the coolant line that goes to the firewall to the heater core. The exchanger is pretty light really so some people actually cable tie it somewhere in the engine bay. Mine's bolted onto the firewall behind the airbox so I've extended the water outlet to the front of the car and the inlet hose is extended similarly and hangs down near the front wheel with a cap on the end.

For the handy DIY'er I reckon it'd only take a few hours to install properly. The interesting thing is that the temperature is adjusted on my GQ by moving the temperature slider for the heater on the dash. This controls how much water flows through the heater core and the heat exchanger. Less flow = more heat and vice versa. However, GU Patrols actually may have adopted a different system and work like my old L-series did in that the heater setting only opens and closes a flap over the heater core to allow more or less air flow from it into the car. Therefore, the water flow to the heat exchanger is always the same and the flow needs to governed by one extra piece... a flow valve that you can buy easy enough. A simple system but it works. Some find the temperature not hot enough or that they'd rather just recycle the water through the shower until it gets hot enough (by simply dunking the shower head into big bucket that you're getting water from) and then turning the engine off.

One word of warning though. Get the hoses absolutely water tight. Not only is this important for water flow for your pump to run the shower but it's especially important to keep the coolant lines secure or you'll cook your engine.
 
Cheers mate. Would never buy a cruiser, they have never taken my fancy and my mates have bent too many of them to earn my respect.
The 4.2 wagons are hard to find, but this one with all the gear was already on the market the day i started looking, so i had bought it within a week of wanting one. Very happy!
 
Yesterday i took a heap of measurements, and it turns out the 3" king springs have sagged to just 1" over standard. So the fun begins...
I checked that it already has the castor correction (which it did) and the part numbers on the koni shocks checked out to be for a 3" lift, so i guess its time for some nice replacement coils to get her back up to where she should be.
 
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