Premix or concentrated coolant

Partsouq is great, except for large bulky items, which shipping is a killer on, although a Clutch, DMF and associated parts was cheaper from there, shipping made the total dearer then getting the parts at the local dealer (albeit at trade price)
 
SquiresSquire said:
Partsouq is great, except for large bulky items, which shipping is a killer on, although a Clutch, DMF and associated parts was cheaper from there, shipping made the total dearer then getting the parts at the local dealer (albeit at trade price)
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Why would you be buying a dual mass flywheel?? Flick that for a Gen1/2 solid flywheel from the wreckers!

My sister’s Gen3 has a dual mass flywheel with that annoying squeak! We threw a pick a part solid flywheel in there from a Gen2. $60 (from memory) for the flywheel.

It’s all lego, remember that!

Cheers

Bennie
 
El_Freddo said:
Why would you be buying a dual mass flywheel?? Flick that for a Gen1/2 solid flywheel from the wreckers!

My sister’s Gen3 has a dual mass flywheel with that annoying squeak! We threw a pick a part solid flywheel in there from a Gen2. $60 (from memory) for the flywheel.

It’s all lego, remember that!

Cheers

Bennie
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Oops, it was a few years ago now, it was a DMF to SMF Conversion Kit from Subaru. So a SMF, Clutch, Pressure Plate, Fork, and associated consumables
 
Doing the radiator today. Only have access to Supercheap or Autobarn for coolant... Any recommendation?
Currently thinking Nulon:
1603490854948.png
What, if any dilution should I do and what with? I've read (somewhere here!) that distilled water is best and at 50/50? I'm also sure I've read in the past that you shouldn't use distilled water...?
I'm very confused about the whole thing. Probably because the last car I really did any work on before this one was a 76 beetle, back in the 80's. Plus I had a bit of a night last night so my brain is a bit fuzzy.

New radiator is twin core full alloy, so guessing I'll need a bit more than usual in a forester.

Maybe I should wait until my brain starts working proper. It's up to turning a few spanners and screwdrivers though and I had a play on the parts car last night. All looks pretty straight forward to do the swap.

edit 2#:
Looks like my brain is kicking in. I've remembered that we can search for things on the internet!
so... The above coolant needs to be diluted. and with demineralised water. Being in the tropics, probably less than 50/50, so thinking about 70% water/30% coolant. does this seem about right?

edit #3: hmm... am I around the wrong way with dilution? Perhaps I should go back to bed...
 
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@Ben Up North pretty sure it's 50/50. I've only ever used Subaru branded coolant in the Foz but Nulon should be OK.
 
Ratbag said:
All the best with your head.
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Vegemite has saved the day. (y)
That and a couple of orange juice & lemonades.
Nothing better: Vitamin C, sugar & salt.
:D

(I also blame my fuzziness on the fact we ran the air-con all night last night - that always Fs me up.)
 
30% coolant is a good way to go if not needing the anti freeze properties. If you’re using an anti boil/anti freeze coolant, you might consider running a higher concentration of coolant.

Always use distilled water - or tank/rain water if available.

Cheers

Bennie
 
Well now i'm panicking!

The coolant in the overflow container was a little below the LOW line, so i added about 100ml of "SCA Standard Radiator Coolant type B". Not even thinking about it.
The coolant in the neck of the radiator looks greenish. So i thought any green coolant will do.

Should I drain the overflow container and put distilled water in it till i get the correct coolant?
 
putting distilled water in reduces corrosion and overall better for your system. Short term use of non distilled water is fine, long term not so great
 
I sucked out "most" what was in the overflow. left a little bit in there and then topped it up with distilled water.

Probably I'll get the coolant flushed soon.
 
@temmah At the first convenient opportunity, drain the cooling system, flush with distilled water, then fill with OEM.

Check regularly for leaks or funny coolant levels for a week or two.

You will not do any damage using ordinary water, as long as you replace it as soon as convenient.
 
No problem a fairly straight forward job mate, about an hours job, make sure you get one of them coolant bleeder bucket thingos as well
 
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If I drain the coolant from the radiator, will it drain all the coolant from the engine block as well? First time attempting this so i want to make sure i do it correctly.
 
Most of it should drop once you remove the the bottom radiator hose. Take it off fully or just disconnect it from the engine side of things. Also take your radiator cap off to make it easier for the fluid to drain out. The 100% guarentee way is to get a hexbit (dont know what size) and unscrew the plugs under the heads. To be honest ive never used the extra method only disconnected bottom hose and let it do its thing for like 15mins or however long i liked.
 
14mm hex key is needed and a decent breaker bar for those plugs under the heads. It’s the best way to get all the coolant out.

Cheers

Bennie
 
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