am i getting most of my 2'' lift ?

No, you will keep the same amount of wheel travel. Yes, you have to move the top hat towards the back of the car meaning that the upper plate of the strut spacer goes towards the front of the car. I would go 7mm same as Foresters as it has been calculated by someone else.
 
so now redone both sides in front . before had 4cm spacers in front without offset. so now redone that to 5.1cm spacers with 7mm camber offset.
and redo allready made spacers is much harder and takes more time and tools then do them new from new peaces. drove to work as that with bad alignment but short distancce its nothing bad. and car was keeping itself on road ok wheel straight too. still have some stuff to do in rear before will do aligment.
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to have enough space to remove strut when car lifted sway bar needs to be disconnected, nothing else.
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and i guess thats how much more travel i would get in front with front sway bar disconnected

when was redoing driver side spacer found out that driver side strut top mount bearings making sound when spin or moved to sides. and i can hear it from car now too, makes tic tic sound when going on not even road/gravel . so thats ordered , took one Lemforder made. so will change that in couple days , still cant do alignment until all that done.
 
I can't really see how you modified your strut spacers, camber or caster ? Or both ?
 
camber mostly 7mm. and caster maybe i moved it some to side. as i understood for caster offset strut need to go to wheel side to make it center better. so i moved it maybe 2-3mm , didint had more space to move there. but caster is not so important here i guess. more important will it be enough to make my camber right now.
and my wheel rack have loose too. when i move wheel on lofted car i can hear and see that its moving inside steering rack and out of it . and making sound.

today wanted to change driver side strut top mounting as i heard bearing was making some sound when moving it to sides. but what i found is that new top mounting dont fit properly strut itself.cant understand why but my new top mounting is loose on my strut and even if i tightening that bolt on top its not going any further down. and after that its have movement to sides and that cant be right way there. i spend 4 hrs try to fix that just after that i realised my new top mounting its just loose on my strut. so maybe someone earlier put there some different strut or im buying wrong top mounting not sure whats going on there. now i have clicking sounds all over in front after i made lift + 1cm . now it seems like something is loose in front and every time i drive on not flat road i hear that clicking sound in front .
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i lost today about 4 hrs just to redoing this maybe 4 times , no power tools just redoing those springs again and again. in end it came to me that i did all ok first time just that top mounting is just loose on my strut . but how ? why now how i didint hear it before. so maybe thats not making sound just something else doing that. now my all front making click sounds as ifs something wear out there or loose, but nothing is.
seems like i bought that new to mounting for nothing now. as its loose now still i dont get it how it can be but it is.
and something is wrong there because now i have driver side about 1cm higher then passenger side with same height lift spacers both 5cm. but drover side strut top bolt and passenger side top bolt looks different height.

i had almost no sounds in front until i raised front lift 1cm more. now it sounds really bad there.
 
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disconnected front sway bar . but nowhere to put it . so just tested first straped it somewhere higher

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wasnt best thing as when i got too muc hflex that strap broke down and sway bar droped down and started rutle on arm
but i got more flex as i tested it on same place that i did couple days ago. and i manage to go there more easily
 
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