CTEK 250S connection with Smart Alternator

[zippo]

You don't need to worry about max charge rate with the CTEK - it has a temperature probe that you attach to the battery and it will regulate the charge based on the temp of the battery.

With a flooded cell that approach works acceptably, as you have greater electrolyte mobility (and usually a greater charge acceptance rate). The problem with that approach with Gel/AGM batetries is that it is a bit like closing the door after the horse is gone - by the time the OUTSIDE of the plastic case shows a temperature rise, the battery may well have suffered significant life-shortening deterioration by overcharging. It is too simplistic for AGM's.

 

[PauSum]

Sounds as if you are gradually getting a handle on this electrical stuff, PS.

Good on you for your perseverance, mate .

Starting to build up my confidence now Ratbag...there are heaps of information and good people in this forum sharing all their experiences and ideas which help a lot.

Another thing is of course, don't want to pay $250 or even $350 to someone who only put in "just ok" materials to install it onto my car

With a flooded cell that approach works acceptably, as you have greater electrolyte mobility (and usually a greater charge acceptance rate). The problem with that approach with Gel/AGM batetries is that it is a bit like closing the door after the horse is gone - by the time the OUTSIDE of the plastic case shows a temperature rise, the battery may well have suffered significant life-shortening deterioration by overcharging. It is too simplistic for AGM's.

Thanks zippo, I'll pull the trailer out to have a look into the battery to see whether there is any info showing on the battery, or even google it - more info will allow me to know more about what the dealer has given me in the trailer and may even help me later on, who knows.

 

[duncanm]

Does the max charge rate show on the battery? I'm using the ctek D250S only so the max charging cuŕrent is 20a only too.

Just check the max charge rate for the battery technology.

AGM is 0.2C.

ie: 100AH battery has max charge rate of 20A

 

[zippo]

That is a good general guideline, and fits well with AGM's targeted at the telecommunications industry. Some of the more exxy ones with RV's in mind claim to be happy at higher rates, which is why it is always prudent to check the manufacturer for specs of your particular type/model.

 

[Kevin]

I have removed misinformation, off-topic & extraneous information and adjusted the title of this thread to better reflect the topic and make it easier to read (as I created this thread in the first place).

 

[Kevin]

How goes the install?

 

[PauSum]

Haven't done it yet. I have been waiting for the out of stock 30a manual reset circuit breaker and the cover as the ebay bought one is too big for the holder - went to the 12 volt shop again yesterday and still not restocked yet (have been out of stock for at least 3 weeks!).

Decided to use a 30a fuse to fit into the holder and also bought some 6mm wire yesterday but haven't got the chance to install yet as have been looking for a suitable jack for the trailer these two days (last days the auto shops are on sale with those jacks).

A planned job for next weekend.

 

[PauSum]

Just wondering how do you guys run your thick wire from engine bay to the rear of your car?

Dont want to drill holes, nor any exposed wire under the car. Fully aware this may be car specific though.

Cheers

 

[Kevin]

If you'd like to crank off your second battery then you need a pretty heavy cable; for my Triton I have run zero gauge into a marine switch in the rear for selecting or bypassing the CTEK and for connecting or isolating the 2 aux batteries. There is a 250 amp fuse at each connection. I also use my 2 aux batteries to power a rear portable winch and a 3000 watt inverter.
The Foz, which was wired 10 years ago, has 4 gauge but if I were to do it again I would run heavier cable. Once you have a nice thick cable you never have to upgrade it, but it depends entirely on what you want to do with it. While you are running cables also think about running a 7 core trailer cable through the car at the same time, could come it handy later on.

 

[PauSum]

Thanks Kevin,

Zero gauge is very heavy wire!

If you'd like to crank off your second battery then you need a pretty heavy cable

I've got one of this so I don't intend to crank off the second battery; and as the second battery is in the trailer which will not be with my car all the time.

While you are running cables also think about running a 7 core trailer cable through the car at the same time, could come it handy later on.

What would the 7 core trailer cable for? Is it for powering the trailer? If this is the case, I've got the tow bar and trailer plug installed by the dealer already.

Took out a fair bit of stuff inside the car today and found that there is no easy way to run the 6 gauge cable from the engine bay into the cabin then to the end next to the trailer plug without drilling holes.

Then decided to take away the cladding below the door and hey finally able to hide the cable inside it leading to the end of the car. :biggrin:

It's dark and raining, will continue tomorrow.

 

[Kevin]

The 7 core is if you want to add any accessories at the back and have their power source and/or switching from the front e.g. reversing camera, extra reverse/rear work lights - very simple to run now while you're at it.

 

[PauSum]

Finally, all wirings put together and connected the second battery in the trailer with the car via the anderson plugs. Started the car and the second battery showed 14.49V after few minutes! :banana:

The only thing is not sure if the CTEK is separating the starting and service batteries or not when the engine is not running with the key in the "on" position - plan to introduce a switch to separate the batteries manually.

 

[Ratbag]

Great stuff, PS.

BUT

:lol:

 

[PauSum]

No worries Ratbag - will upload some pictures tomorrow :biggrin:

 

[Ratbag]

Thanks, mate. Look forward to seeing some. I'm thinking of running some real power to the back of Roo2 ...

And I can talk. I haven't even started my roo bar thread!

 

[PauSum]

I'm thinking of running some real power to the back of Roo2 ...

That will be fun!!

I had been thinking of taking pictures today but lots happened when setting up the wiring and ended up none was taken as wanted to finish the job before it's too dark. It definitely was fun doing this though.

 

[Kevin]

The only thing is not sure if the CTEK is separating the starting and service batteries or not when the engine is not running with the key in the "on" position - plan to introduce a switch to separate the batteries manually.

Terrific! Did you use the relay per the diagram as that will cut power when the ignition is off?

 

[PauSum]

Terrific! Did you use the relay per the diagram as that will cut power when the ignition is off?

Yes Kevin, my only concern is when the key is still in "On" position which means the 2 batteries will be conected. Second thought is this probably won't happen too much. Will see after the short trip end of the month.

 

[duncanm]

Yes Kevin, my only concern is when the key is still in "On" position which means the 2 batteries will be conected. Second thought is this probably won't happen too much. Will see after the short trip end of the month.

My reading of the manual says this isn't necessary.. the unit does not connect the batteries directly.. its a DC-DC converter, which is why it can charge efficiently from a solar panel.

It is designed to only ever charge your service battery, and should not do so unless the engine is running or a solar panel is supplying enough power.

Leakage / discharge on the batteries by the unit is spec'd at less than 1Ah/month

The LEDs on the unit tell you what's going on.

Check with the manufacturer if you're in doubt.

 

[Kevin]

^ This is true for a standard connection but remember this is connected to a smart alternator which I think is not covered by the manual (well not in mine at least). Refer to the wiring diagram early in the thread.