Greatest DIY Bash/Skid Plate in the World

[Ratbag]

That's bloody heavy going, Red, I agree.

I am running Shell Helix Ultra FS 5W-40. You could probably get away with 10W-40 in Perth, but even so. Our engines require fully synthetic oil. It isn't optional as it was with the EJ-18 in my '93 Impreza. However, I wouldn't use oil that has a cold viscosity index of 10. Personally, I reckon that's too thick for a (relatively) new engine, or one that's in good condition (i.e. uses little to no oil between oil changes). I ran the Impreza on 10W-40 (non-synthetic) for its entire life with me, and it never used any oil or water at nearly 18 y.o. and 236,000 kms on the clock ...

Most of the wear on any engine occurs in the first few seconds of running; perhaps in the first minute. During that time, you want the oil as light as possible so that it gets into all those very fine tolerance gaps and oil ways.

For a modern engine that isn't worn or old (over about 150,000 kms, minimum), I wouldn't recommend using a higher viscosity oil than 5W-40. The 5 for starting, and the 40 for our bloody hot climate!

The engine will tell you when you need to go up a grade to 10W-40, or even 20W-50. It will start using some oil rather than none at all.

Oil "viscosity" is measured when the oil is at 100°C. If your oil is getting hotter than this, the viscosity index will fall - i.e. you will be buggering up your engine ...

BTW, for the sake of completeness, there is absolutely no way that I would use the recommended 0W-20 FS in the N/A 2.5L EJ-253 engine; nor the recommended 5W-30 FS in the 2.5L turbo. Viscosity index 30 is too light for Oz conditions (note that for the turbo donk, the chart comes to a dead end at 40°C ambient ... speaks for itself!!).

30 viscosity oils are good for up to 40°C ambient, but that's it ...

 

[Red XS]

Yeah I'd generally like to take it easier on my car than I did on the 1st few trips in a lot of ways.

I'm up to about 195,000 Kms, (only 9,000Kms were done by me). I can see evidence of that Subaru oil leak, but I've had no noticeable drop in oil since changing it, so it can't be that bad. Over all the engine is still amazingly smooth running.

 

[Ratbag]

I'm with you, Red.

My car cost me a lot of money, no matter how you slice it. I bought Roo1 new (95% tax deductible ... :iconwink: :ebiggrin. No way would I buy a new car these days. Depreciation wipes 25% off its value the moment you drive it out of the showroom ...

We bought mine for about 39% of its new delivery price, with 101,000 kms on it. One needs to add back the cost of the new back suspension struts ($750 all up, including fitting and alignment); complete service as if it had never had a service done in its life, plus new timing and drive belts ($1,000); new tyres and full alignment ($760); change the gearbox and rear diff oils ($142 - precautionary measure ... ).

Even adding back these things that one doesn't need to do with a new car, it still makes for a far cheaper option, IMO.

We got much the same sort of deal with SWMBO's SH when we bought it. So I don't really regret having to spend $560 on the brakes, or the fact that it will need new tyres sometime in about 10-20K Kms ...

 

[catchya]

Hi Ratbag

I have no hesitation in running the recommended 5W-30 FS in my 2.5L turbo Forester :biggrin:.

Not only with my Subaru but also in my other vehicle, which the manufacturer also recommends. On that car, the motor is 20 years old and still on stock internals, has been driven in many track events where the oil temps have maintained within acceptable levels, and has maintained over 500rwhp for the last 10 years I have owned it. No issues at all using the 5w-30 FS

Yes, modern engines need a lighter oil to ensure it reaches all the components that engines of past years didn't have, eg VVTI , but a 5W-30 will still lubricate fine with 40deg plus ambient temps, as long as the engine is built for that weight oil. Remember engines will run at the same temp once warmed up, regardless of ambient temp and conductive heat.

Manufacturers have already taken this into account and base their recommendations to cater for the extreme of high ambients and low air flow over the sump.

FS are in a whole new league of their own. Oils are now are far more sophisticated than days gone past. With better anti wear additives and better base stock with higher viscosity ratings, the days of using higher viscosity as a safety margin are gone.

Cheers

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday CY

I was talking about FS oils ...

Read up on the testing procedures, and how the various standards are set. I have.

Even for FS oils (which I am a great advocate of ... ) are designed to have their advertised viscosity at an oil temperature of 100°C. Above that, and you may be in serious trouble. With ambient temps of above 40°C the norm in summer in Oz, we should all be aware of that.

I note also that the OM states that one may need up to 20W-50 FS oils under arduous conditions (towing, high ambient temps, etc ... ).
I wonder why they would suggest that? :iconwink: