Codes...Solutions??

Subarupartsgirl seems very good. She has quoted me around $US305 posted. Part number 22650AA192. I will check to see if Subaru use the same part number for the item.
Found the part number out of China for up to $50.
Thanks Kevin.
 
I tried to get the air flow meter/idle control thing off today. The one on the top of the engine that the code is referring to but bugger me if I could get one of the screws out. Anyway I plugged it back on and the car is idling as rough as guts. Heading off to the Gold Coast in a couple of weeks taking the Dmax for a cruise. Hopefully I can get to a wrecker or two. Need to fix the thing so I can get sell it. The money is going to my slide on camper.
 
If its the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV), then I think you need a new gasket everytime you remove it. & yes that will make it idle badly.

Try soaking the screw in some penetrene or WD40. Give it a day or 2 to really soak in
 
I took it for a drive after playing with it and it was gurgling and puffing and panting and I said to myself it was like it was running on 3 cylinders. I was sure I could smell something burning. Anyway, got home and had a look and sure enough I had disconnected a lead somehow and it was just sitting on top of the block sparking happily away. Fixed up. Just hope I have time to find a wrecker up on the Gold Coast next week.
 
^ easy enough to do, mate.

Even a wire that's just loose can easily vibrate its way out.
 
I may have made some progress. I went to the wreckers at Pambula and we got a idle air control motor off a 2ltr Subie. It he said it would work and I reckon the number was the same and he put it on for me and cleared the codes and no warning light came on.
He also has a Subie coming in next week and will see if the speed sensor is suitable and give me a ring.
$55 for the part including fitting. I was driving home and the light is back on. Possible that it is for the speed sensor but I will have to wait and see. Pain in the rear end!!
 
Any ideas on this?? When I start up it goes to 2500rpm and gradually comes down but is idling at 1200rpm when warm. It never went that high on start up. Two cables but both don't seem to have a 'down' adjustment. I gather one is choke and one throttle. I had a look but buggered if I can figure out how to adjust the idle. Funny enough...when I put the clutch in and put it in 1st gear the idle goes up....what's that all about?? If you just put the clutch in there is no change.
 
Don't adjust the idle, you'll just bugger up the settings. The ECU controls that. I still think you have a leaking IACV gasket. When you put the wrecker one on, did you use a NEW gasket? You need to...

Get a new IACV gasket from Subaru & put that on.
 
I don't remember it having a gasket. I'll check it out. I also need to get the codes read again to see what is happening but I found a link to resetting the thing....I did a cut down version and just disconnected the battery and it is idling at the correct revs BUT it still cut out on me when I was going really slow and had my clutch in and was just turning into a park across the main road... lucky there were no cars coming...it was potentially dangerous.
Here is the link....
https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f75/how-idle-re-learn-after-battery-disconnect-154161/
What do you think about that?
 
Gidday Silver

Gaskets are rather important ... :poke:.

Resetting the ECU Is a two edged sword. You lose whatever codes are stored in it when you reset it (of course). The ECU will also retain info for some time after the battery is disconnected, just as the airbag and seatbelt activation systems do. It seems that the generally accepted time for this is around 20-30 minutes.

Posters in that SF.org thread are right. The ECU does re-train itself constantly. It cannot do this properly if you are missing a gasket ...
 
The poor idle is a symptom not a cause. You have to fix whatever is causing the problem first & throwing the CELs. You could try resetting the ecu but that method seems overly complicated.

Here is another simpler way that should work just as well:

* Disconnect battery & press brake pedal for 5secs
* Reconnect battery
* with a/c, stereo, lights, rear demister, etc off start engine & DON"T touch any controls.
* leave till fans have cycled on then off
* switch off. Start then go for a drive...drive like you stole it lol
* finished :biggrin:
 
When you switch on after disconnect, wait 3 secs for the idle air control solenoid valve to initialize before cranking.
 
The Idle Air Control Motor does not have a gasket. It has an O ring. I have ordered one. When I got home I pulled the IACM off and had a look and it has the O ring but was pretty dirty. I cleaned it with degreaser and also cleaned inside the housing and around the part that the 'plunger' locates to. I have put it back on and disconnected the battery and will take it for a drive tomorrow.
I also priced a speed sensor....and this is the stupid part....He told me around $240 ( or maybe $340...I forgot) plus fitting. So $940 for the IACM and $240 for the speed sensor just doesn't make sense.
I will see how it all goes and if I have too I will get the speed sensor off Subaru and get a quote to fit it. The wrecker guy told me they are a bit awkward to do.
 
Well still no luck. I did the disconnect thing and it now idles at about 1200rpm. At least it is not stalling. It's still a bloody pain!!:ebiggrin:
 
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