t.ridden's L series - Scooby

Hi all

Having been lurking around on the forum for plenty long enough and just about to get stuck into an EJ swap into my beloved little red wagon, I figured it was about time i started my own thread!
Saves me hijacking everyone else's with my questions and eeps you guys up to date :iconwink:

So, introducing Scooby -

I bought the 'old girl' in early 2012 while looking around for a first 4x4 of some sort, mainly for bush camping, rally marshalling and the occasional beach run. I was tossing up between a suzuki sierra/jimny or an L series and this one came up at the right price. My family had a white L series while I was little and we've always had Subarus, so I guess it was in my upbringing :p. I found her on Gumtree in a break between lectures at uni and by that night I had a deposit down!

When i bought her, she had roof crossbars, aluminium roobar with Narva 150mm spotlights and 14" desert rat wheels, but otherwise stock.

Since I've owned her, I've added:
Roof basket with another pair of Narva 150 spots.
Moved front spotlights in front of the bar to reduce glare.
- I've actually gone through a few spotlight setups but this is my current one
LED camping lights in the boot and on the hatch.
LED interior light (best thing ever).
Fender flares to keep Constable Care happy with the offset rims.
Deleted center muffler (courtesy of a hidden rock) which gives a very nice note and no noticeable difference in power.
Numerous small dents on the undercarriage (needs bigger tyres...therefore i need a lift kit!)
A few scratches from bushbashing, but hey, thats what its for.

As she is now (but with a different spots setup)
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DSCN0038_zps04061354.jpg

^ one of my favourite photos

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^another of my favourites

In the next few days I'll add some details and questions regarding my EJ transplant and general refresh and servicing over the next few months

Feel free to pitch in advice, questions, comments, etc.
I'm always open for ideas and to learn from others experience
 
4.0L Boxer 8!

I wish!

Yep its definitely gathering pace now, just need to sort a fuel pump, larger return line, pick up my adapter and flywheel and it'll be go time!
 
Great stuff, Tom ... :biggrin:

That's one seriously overloaded back wheel there!

All the best with the de- reconstruction.
 
So it's basically a start again on the parts?? Bold move!

Not a complete start again.
But yes new ECU and loom, to make things easier on that front and the engine for its bolt-ons as I suspect its quite cooked. Its already proving useful, I discovered the difference between the "standard" and "hydraulic" timing belt tensioners today...I've already bought a standard type TB kit, so the good engine will be converted to standard tensioner using the one off the cooked motor.
Props to TheInterceptor for pointing out the substructure in the block that unbolts to swap between tensioner types, saved me a lot of frustration and wasted time/money.

Got the new loom stripped down today and virtually ready to go, will test in the Liberty first then out comes the EJ for some TLC!
Starting with a good wash and degrease! Much needed after a brief career as a paddock car
Then timing kit, external oil seals, water pump and other consumables
Might get a bit crazy with some spray cans too...red timing covers sounds like a good idea...might go full STi impersonator and go red intake manifold too....maybe...
Watch this space!
I'll make sure I have my camera with me this time!
 
Oh I had fun today!

Started by converting the donor engine from hydraulic to standard timing belt tensioner, from the cooked engine.
Its quite a simple process and it's one less thing to leak or break easily and apparently is just generally better.
Basically, there's a substructure in the block that each tensioner bolts to and this unbolts from the main block via 3 bolts, two on top and one in the middle of the structure. I needed to remove the aircon compressor bracket in order to get to one of the top bolts, which in itself presented a few tricky bolts! Almost had to remove the intake manifold, until I found a thinner extension bar.
The tensioner subframes simply swap over and the standard one bolts into the donor block without a problem.

Hydraulic Tensioner
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Standard Tensioner
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Substructure removed from block
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Hydraulic-type Substructure, for comparison
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Substructure installed in donor engine
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Losing the light outside made working on the donor car difficult and I want to clean the area and paint my timing covers before replacing them, so I went and stripped the cooked motor.
Found many possible reasons for it's ill-running, even without cracking the block open; injector tubes crammed full of greasy soot, generally lots of burnt oil inside the intake and heads (oil blow-back through crankcase ventilation to intake due to busted rings/piston?), water pump rusty but apparently functional, timing belt system badly in need of servicing, burnt soot around the throttle butterfly, etc.
Not sure if its the same with modern EFI engines, but from my experience with carb-ed ones, this points to a busted piston or ring, causing the crankcase to become pressurised, blowing oil up through the ventilation hoses into the intake.
Which doesn't bother me too much, it's just a parts motor :)
DSCN0289_zps7176a1e5.jpg

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More to come as it happens
 
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Nice engine thread, I'll soon do the same job to my Foz, those pics will help me !
 
Reminds me on a impreza I bought with a snapped timing belt.... tuened ojt to be the hydraulic tensioner failed.
The hydraulic tensioners on the later ej motor are much more reliable.
 
I've edited in a photo of the hydraulic type substructure in the original post for convenience

Nice engine thread, I'll soon do the same job to my Foz, those pics will help me !

Not a problem! Glad I could help. There's nothing particularly difficult about the conversion, once you know what you're looking at and can get to the bolts! The only part I'm struggling with now is compressing the standard tensioner. Its got some serious pressure behind it!

Anyone got any tips?
Tried using a G clamp and the tensioner ended up 3/4 the way across my yard :/ glad it went that direction and not in my direction!
I don't have a big enough bench vice either.


Also, my hydraulic tensioner failed today :raspberry: prodded it in a moment of distraction to see if it had any pressure left and next minute - hydraulic oil all over the workbench. Probably didn't help that I left it on its side for a few days.
 
Have you finished the swap ? I'm starting mine next week…!
 
Wow, i've been lazy!
Thanks jf1sf5 for reminding me that Uni isn't my whole life!

Progress update

EJ motor is finally out of the Liberty and separated from the 'box. Had to pull them out together due to a rounded bellhousing bolt....
In the meantime, I've swapped the engine looms (had to also swap cam and crank angle sensors due to plug differences), cleaned up the intake side of things, including a freshened up throttle body (also due to plug differences)

RECAP: I'm using the electricals from a manual Gen1 on a motor from an auto Gen2. This explains all the plug differences.

New drama...got the 'box off, and the torque convertor off, and almost got all the crankshaft-TC plate bolts...the last 2 are stupidly tight...
Dad's huge rattle gun at 110psi won't even budge them :poke:
Seems everything I try and do with this car works perfectly until the very last bolt!! :furious:
I got so excited thinking I might be able to get the new flywheel and clutch on today too... :(

Ah well...have soaked them in CRC/WD40/etc and will let it penetrate for a day or two and then we shall see.
Gives me time to finish doing the timing belt and cleaning the mud/grease off the rest of the underside of the motor.
Still have no idea on compressing that tensioner, anyone got any ideas?
 
Gidday Tom

Have you tried a valve spring compressor?

From my Batphone
 
Use a vice anf go slow. About half a mm squeeze then let it sit for 30 seconds. If you try and go fast the tensioner will **** out. Them use a small 2mm drill bit to go through and hold it tensioned.
 
With your seized bolts, I find nothing beats Penetrene.

Good luck & remember, patience is a virtue lol :lol:
 
Ooooh a package :biggrin: (Baja for scale, and skids :iconwink:)
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hehehe goodies for Scooby!!
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Sticker's been painted over, but i scraped enough off to tell it's legit
3.7 LSD
Swapped my mistakenly-bought FWD rear discs set for this, definitely LSD, tight and no clunking = happy Tom :)
 
Still wont hurt to take the back off the diff to check though. Congrats on a rear LSD :biggrin:

Likely, I'll do that, give it a clean out and new oil and fit an extended breather while I'm there.
Might as well go the whole hog on it!
 
I used a brass fitting & tapped the hole with a cheap eBay tap. Easy to do & will never leak or come off :biggrin:
 
b75b2c9b-c22b-4018-9f4f-3e2872c0684b_zpshcquvaji.jpeg


^image of the sticker that the previous owner shared on my AUSubaru journal.
 
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