Taza's Foz 2.0

Well I thought I better start again as it's like a new car since the last journal (here: https://www.offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=2887 - RB).
Modifications have been severe! :lildevil: Damage has been extreme :surprised: Repairs have been expensive and tiresome :cry: After all she and I have been through over the past 3 years and 100+k km. You could say it's really been an adventure :lol: With many more to come :cool:

Stock in June 2010
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Now as of September 2013
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Mods

Suspension
  • KYB front SF shocks/struts
  • KYB rear SG(04 Forester N/A) shocks/struts
  • Heavy duty raised dobinson springs all round
  • GC8 WRX STIheavy duty rear swaybar(19mm)
  • Whiteline rear swaybar endlinks
  • Audi A3 light weight 15" cast alloy wheels(+38 offset, 5kg each)
  • Impreza 15" alloy wheels
  • 65mm rear strut top lift blocks(made by Stilson)
  • 50mm front strut top lift blocks
  • 50mm rear trailing arm spacers

Engine/Drivetrain
  • Fully reconditioned SF Forester gearbox(170,000km on foz from All Drive Subaroo in eastern states)
  • Fully reconditioned EJ25 N/A SOHC block from 2003 Outback
  • Custom made front CV shafts with lifted Toyota Hilux CV boots, heavy duty inner joints(cup, balls, grease, etc...)
  • 2004 Forester VLSD rear diff
  • Grimmspeed lightweight crank pulley
  • Grimmspeed Phenolic manifold spacer
  • Haltech Platinum Interceptor Piggyback ECU(wired in by myself - apprentice auto sparky) - Manages fuel and ignition timing for the new engine.

Interior
  • 2000watt worth of Stereo - Sony headdeck(wth bluetooth, USB, Auxilary), 2x amplifers, Pioneer 12" Sub, Alpine S-Type 6 1/2" speakers
  • Dynamat sounder deadener
  • Clarkrubber 10mm sound proofing(boot, tailgate, under passenger seat, rear doors
  • Repco plain black seat covers
  • Supercheap bucket heavy duty rubber mats, front and rear
  • Led interior light conversion
  • Tint-A-Car Octane 35% on front two windows(drivers and passengers), 20% from B-Pillar back - Darkest legal all round
  • Momo WRX steering wheel
  • Genuine Dash mat
  • 12v auxilary sockets in glovebox
  • Uniden UHF radio 80channel(mounted where ash tray goes)
  • Hard wired android Samsung phone charger on drivers side A-Pillar

Exterior
  • TJM bullbar(to Suit SF Forester - airbag compliant)
  • Subaru genuine reece-hitch towbar 40x40mm - rated at 1300kg
  • Rhino sportz roof racks
  • Lightforce 170's
  • Dual battery setup in boot with Redarc smart solenoid under bonnet(100amp alternator)
  • Subaxtreme sumpguard
  • Resprayed bonnet(faded)
  • 225/70R15 Dunlop Grandtrek AT3's(soon to change to Toyo Open Countrys's)
  • Uniden 7db aerial
  • ARB 2m side awning(stolen one night :()

Future Mods
  • Gearbox done - L-Series 1.59 low range, front STI 5 speed helical LSD, DCCD centre, taller 5th gear, shorter 1st gear, oil drip feed
  • Dyno tune for piggyback computer running EJ25
  • Subaxtreme rear bar
  • HID kit for Lightforce 170's
  • GCD(2004) WRX dash swap(SF dash looks very old fashion and makes car feel old and sad) - This is a major!
  • Safari Snorkel (NK Pajero)
  • Rear mounted winch
  • LED lightbar
  • 2 1/4" exhuast from catback with high flow cat and UEL headers for that awesome boxer rummble :cool:
  • OBDII Computer conversion/upgrade to replace stock ECU and piggyback computer

Damage
  • Ripping front end of chassis off(tow point LHS)
  • Blown gearbox(chattered first gear)
  • Blown rear diff(stripped teeth off spider gears)
  • Snapped CV axle shafts
  • Dented drivers door due to a sand dune
  • Oil rings gone in Engine 1 (EJ20 N/A)
  • Oil rings gone in Engine 2(EJ20 N/A)
  • Snapped timing belt in Engine 2
  • Bent steel rim(15" stock LHF)
  • Bent rear struts
  • Snapped Dobinson heavy duty coil spring(2x on different occasions 6 months apart)
  • Broken spot lights(due to ramming a fence down)
  • Stereo amplifer catching fire(evening peak hour traffic)
  • CV boot ripping
  • Split radiator (while offroad, had to get towed home)
  • Clutch burnt out x2
  • Bent towbar
  • Ripped off front and rear bumpers
  • Ripped off trailer plug
  • Ripped off passenger side skirting
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Click to expand...
Planning for the major overhall later this year... organised DCCD for my gearbox build to replace the 20kg centre I was planning to install.
Bought a heap of bushes for my tied suspension... diff, control arm, lateral arm, swaybars, etc..

Sourced a light weight flywheel whicj will be matched to an exedy suited ej25 single mass heavy duty kit.

When I'm bavk from overseas I'll stripp both my SF and SG wiring so I can semd it off to AM autos for the splicing.

Starting to get excited now!
 
I might put a word of warning out, your car, your way, but the SM flywheel killed the torque on Dad's SF
Didn't notice it until we tried towing a loaded trailer.
Much more spirited to drive unloaded, but a dead weight with the trailer.
Just a thought.
Sounds like a good overhaul though :)
 
It's getting there... I've had it at a few different stages for awhile. Now had it 5 years. Put 100, 000 very hard km on it.
It's been a good, fun car.
 
I agree with using a lightened flywheel isn't the best offroad. It does'nt actually reduce torque but it does make it easier for the engine to lose revs and stall.

Getting excited to see another DCCD offroad box out there! :lildevil::monkeydance:
 
My interpretation was less weight could achieve more power, but the engine had less momentum making it easier for revs to drop then stall.

Can't wait to see the DCCD in action:lildevil:
 
Lightweight flywheel = More power at high revs, loss of low end (or as the Playstation puts it "greater tendency to lose speed uphill")
 
Well a light weight under drive crank pulley works in the same way but less effective. I've had one on for avges with only an improvement. We'll see. I can get the light weight fly wheel for $150..
 
Think about how it works. The engine produces power according to its design & fuel used. Anything bolted on won't change the torque or HP the engine produces. It will only affect the drivetrain losses.

A lightened flywheel or pulley or rims/tyres, etc, won't affect the engines power or torque but will affect the the losses as the engine changes its RPM. In other words, less rotational mass will allow the engine to increase or decrease its RPM faster. So you will get faster acceleration with the same HP :iconwink:
 
It's the ability to decrease RPM faster that makes it easier to stall, but if your giving it a boot full it will increase RPM faster and you want have a problem. It's just gentle driving that it will stall easier.
 
I think the lighter clutch will be good for you.

I'll stick with dual mass, but you go the lightest one possible.
 
True that you don't know till you try. If its no good swap it back its not like its hard to do. More first hand knowledge of this stuff the better.
 
Are you putting in your lighter clutch, DCCD, lower low range ect in now or will that have to wait?
 
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