Blinky the 97 SF forester

Been a little while since I've had to time (or extra $$) to do more work outfitting my forester. But theres some mods and extras in the near future so I've started my thread to keep track of it all.

heres blinky

lakeo.jpg


Rear wheel carrier is in the works atm, and repainting the roof in white plastidip. other than that I'm looking at making a rear storage system and strut lift.
 
Click to expand...
thunder039 said:
for me its all about the 90% of the destination and only 10% on how i got there
Click to expand...

And that's why I'm happy to jump on the mtb :ebiggrin:, Hows the suzuki coming? had its big first trip yet?

Ratbag said:
plenty of places for some creature comforts
Click to expand...

Everyone carries some of those, I bought a pop up shower cubicle and a small 12v shower to make my girlfriend happy, when camping near a river just fill up a bucket, mix in some boiling water.
 
idw said:
And that's why I'm happy to jump on the mtb :ebiggrin:, Hows the suzuki coming? had its big first trip yet?
Click to expand...

its going great my build is just about done all the major mechanical stuff such as diffs lift winch are all done just have to add my new tow bar and some window tint, got a big high country trip at the end of the month so that should be great
 
Sounds great, I should be up the high country again or the Otway rangers the end of this year. Unfortunately it doesn't look my Fraser Island trip is going to happen till the end of next year or start of 2015 now.
 
9ixh.jpg


Just in case anyone was wondering why my foz is called blinky!

Hit the sump gaurd from crossbred with the grinder to get proper header clearance so it stop tapping on it, but it still taps on start up.
 
Pulled out all the rear floor and started putting in my cargo barrier and storage system, then some other bits arrived for my laptop so that got fixed today and upgraded.

ul5l.jpg
 
Its fun pulling stuff apart, bit harder to put it back together lol. Good luck with the laptop & the cargo barrier
 
haha laptops done, cargo barrier not so much...
 
Measuring up for the storage system, going to build a fridge slide into the floor.

vygh.jpg


To anyone installing a trailer wiring plug, or reverse light, on the SF5 this is where the factory plug is located for a wiring harness

vpx.JPG


And the beginnings of my switch panel (plywood plastidiped), for 2 12vlt outlets and a 50amp anderson plug. I've also got a 20ah sla that can go behind the panel, but i doubt i'll install that as when i get a fridge i'll be putting in a dual battery system under the hood. We only use the 20AH for charging mobile phones and running lights when camping.

00v9.jpg


The fused control box for the wiring panel is going to be waterproofed as well with a 100amp isolator switch and push button battery gauge as it'll be directly to the starter bat for now.

PART 2!

Well i've given up for today. Found a spot to drill out and put a captive nut for the cargo barrier's top point, and I'll make some new bottom brackets to fit to the tie downs. Still might make some arms to the child restraints not sure, does mean no drilling into the body work.

3s9h.jpg


All my mates were out drinking piss without me so here's my friend i call him tie down strap.

fodo.JPG



My clock doesn't work? how to fix it.

Pull clock apart, locate the 510 diode/ remove -> clean it up -> re solder it. (i HATE working on surface mounted components)

q7t6.jpg


ll20.jpg


Trick if you suck at soldering surface mounted components like me, with a HOT iron (350ish is good), first hold down the component with a sharp pencil. Then heat the joint that's cracked, as soon as the solder is molten while still pressing on the component with your pencil remove the iron. wait a couple seconds and take the pencil off. Mine moved down a touch when i was reattaching it that's not a problem here as the tracks on the board aren't very close together most other boards that would have put the diode between two tracks.
 
Last edited:
Gidday Id

Starting to come together ...
Or should that be: Starting to come apart? :lol:

I reckon I'm worse at that kind of soldering. My hands aren't that steady any more, either! At least I have a tiny little soldering iron that I use ... I tend to keep my 200W guttering iron out of electronics ... :rotfl:.

I like how you have tethered your cargo barrier to the rear head rest. Handy for keeping it there while working out the anchoring points.
 
Ratbag I've about 4 soldering irons for different things, one with about 7 different tips. My real nightmare was fixing a marshall head from the 60's most of it was soldered point to point!

I've worked out the anchor points now, I'm going to use the child restrains and the back tie down points so i don't have to drill into the structure. Milfords fitting kit was priced as a joke so i gave up on them.

Storage system on the other hand is taking a step backwards, as i've started welding the rear carrier. Need to get the spare somewhere permanent before i start putting in draws etc that will obscure the wheel well
 
^ I know what you mean about the Milford fitting kit ...

When I checked with them, it worked out cheaper overall to buy a completely new cargo barrier and have them fit it (for a similarly ludicrous, ridiculous price!) than it was to buy a fitting kit and have Rhino fit the kit and the barrier!! I sometimes forget that this is Australia, where everything costs a nightmare amount of money ...

I notice that they do not sell the barrier alone for a negative amount of money ... :poke: :iconwink:
 
I know it's ridiculous. but then again that's because adr is ridiculous, can only live with it though
 
Hopefully not in a pile of half finished bits and pieces in the shed like my usual projects.
 
Making the top arms for my cargo barrier, trying to put some bends in it to make them a little more rigid, make a little bar bender

562j.jpg
 
Finished fitting my cargo barrier this arvo, cost me $25 in steel and some high tensile bolts.

mh4l.jpg


Bottom is just a right angle bracket made out of 25x3 flat bar, and an m6 hi-tensile bolt, m10 holding the barrier to the bracket which is going to become a pin and r clip when i get around to it.

4xdw.jpg


Top is 25x3 flat bent to follow the roof line to the child restraints at the rear, the s bend in the middle gives it some rigidity and in the event of a crash like the original mounting brackets some room to stretch before shearing the bolts.

g3ys.jpg


Better look at the mounting bracket, I made the flat bending making out of some rhs and 16mm rod, drill two 16mm holes 3.5mm apart, sink the rod through the rhs weld it in level. then place it in a vise and bend away, i used an f clamp to make the 90degree twists.

Brackets are yellow because i didnt have any other paint!

Thanks to obsessed for the cargo barrier!
 
Not difficult really, just being a perfectionist :lol:. The mounting kit from the manufacture needs plates drilled and mounted to the body, didn't want to do that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top