DIY Forester rear bar

taza

taza

Forum Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2010
Messages
3,820
Location
Perth, Western Australia
Well $4k is too much to buy one, I just can't justify that kind of price.

Pulled off my my rear bumper and tow bar to see what the rear body skin looks like.

20mins later I was looking at this :raspberry: Filthy I know :lol:

20130316182921.jpg


20130316182928.jpg


20130316182957.jpg


I talked with a mate, did some measuring and worked out what I'm going to do.
I'm going to remove the stock bumper and towbar completely and start from scratch. I will rebuild the towbar and main support(for the carriers and bar skin/cover) to look sometime like this(Subaxtreme one on H6 foz)

imgp5589t.jpg


imgp5590.jpg


The outter cover will be 3mm C-Section steel which will cover the back of the bar, I am then going to get laser cut the section for the 50x50mm reece hitch I will use and for the spare wheel/jerry can carriers.
I am then going to use flat 2mm thick steel to cover the sides of the car where the rear bumper curves around and have 2 small brackets on each side for it to bolt to.

My C-Section with swing carriers will look sometime like this. I will be getting Guyph01(AuSubaru) to weld up the swing arms.

20120503_112023.jpg



I'll then bolt up my number plate, and slap on some extra blinkers/stops lights and all the little bits needed.

I'm wanting to keep the weight of this to under 50kg's. It will increase my rear approach and departure angle by over 50mm, although I don't need anymore. But it will be practical, leaving more room in the car for gear and people on some of my awesome, crazy offroad trips ;)
 
Last edited:
It sounds like a plan & by the looks of it you've got it all worked out nicely :ebiggrin:

While you have everything off, you might like to seal those back vents up aswell :iconwink:

Looking forward to seeing it fitted :ebiggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
carljwnc said:
Sounds/looks like a cool plan taza.:cool:

DIY is da best.:ebiggrin:
Click to expand...

Your not wrong there! I made some DIY tools today for pulling apart my 2.5l subie block... saved myself over $100 :cool:

Now I have the tools and the space I can actually complete my projects :lol:

Planned out all the material I'll be needing/using for the bar and am going to the steel place tomorrow to order it all to size :ebiggrin:
 
Hey Taza.

Coupla things:

1. You should take the opporunity to raise the end sction of your exhaust. If possible, mount it through the new bar.

2. Find out where Spinners has got up to with his bar: he was designing a new one.

3. Check out what Dellfoz did with his: he cut down the plastic to improve departure angle, but he also made an awesome wheel carrier from an old BMX bike crank bearing set. It's wicked!

4. make sure you remove thos stupid flappy things on the side while the bar is off. I replaced mine with allow sheeting that I stuck in place with silicone. This will stop your cargo area filling with water in deep crossings.
 
Ordered the steel today, $312 later and a few days wait while they acurately cut it all to length. The only extra steel I'll need is the swing arm carriers. So far the rough weight is already at 50kg :(

Dulagarl said:
Hey Taza.

Coupla things:

1. You should take the opporunity to raise the end sction of your exhaust. If possible, mount it through the new bar.
Click to expand...

Going to put a new exhaust on (2" 1/4') as the stock one is starting to rust out.

2. Find out where Spinners has got up to with his bar: he was designing a new one.
3. Check out what Dellfoz did with his: he cut down the plastic to improve departure angle, but he also made an awesome wheel carrier from an old BMX bike crank bearing set. It's wicked!
Click to expand...

Yeah I've seen that and looked at doing it but my stock bumper is shagged out. It's all battered, cracked and I don't really wanna keep it. I'd rather start with something fresh... :iconwink:

4. make sure you remove thos stupid flappy things on the side while the bar is off. I replaced mine with allow sheeting that I stuck in place with silicone. This will stop your cargo area filling with water in deep crossings.
Click to expand...

I was going to leave them there but just silicon them up, did you notice any air pressure difference with the doors closing?

hydrowill said:
Keen so see how this turns out, about to take this on for my outback :)
Click to expand...

I'll keep it updated.
 
taza said:
I was going to leave them there but just silicon them up, did you notice any air pressure difference with the doors closing?
.
Click to expand...

I reckon just take em out, and silicone in some aluminium. I think Kevin used floor tiles for that purpose. I say that becuase if you ever want to revert to having the flappy things work again, you can just clip em back in and they won't be gunked with silicon.

and yes, I did notice a difference with the cabin being more airtight. Fan pressurises cabin, but works better with a windo down a few mm. Also, I rend to leave the air inlet position on "fresh" rather than 'recirc" when opening and closing doors. It means the air has somewhere to go without putting pressure on seals around doors etc.

Overall though, a good mod which I am very happy with.
 
Jesus Tarran, are you going for a perfect 50/50 weight distribution?

Could you reinforce the tailgate and upgrade the gas struts so it could hold a spare Nissan patrol style?

Could you use steel for the hitch and alloy for the carrier and bumper?
 
I too noticed a little pressure type of thing like Dulagarl, but nothing major :iconwink:
I all honesty, I don't even notice the difference anymore.

I too keep the vents in the fresh (not recycled) position, which tends to help a little.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Thanks guys, I'll seal them up then.

NachaLuva said:
Will you be adding recovery points on the bar?
Click to expand...

Just the 50x50mm reece hitch. Should be atleast as strong as my stock tow bar

stilson said:
Jesus Tarran, are you going for a perfect 50/50 weight distribution?
Click to expand...

Na, only the weight of a over weight person on the rear end. :lol:

Could you reinforce the tailgate and upgrade the gas struts so it could hold a spare Nissan patrol style?
Click to expand...

Don't like the idea.
Could you use steel for the hitch and alloy for the carrier and bumper?
Click to expand...

Gone with 1.5mm steel for the C-Section. 50kg should actually be achievable or there abouts.
 
Bought a 02 hilux towbar with removable 50x50mm reece hitch off gumtree for $150...

Going to cut up and weld my new strong towbar from this :D Changing the plan of having the towbar as part of the rear bar, just incase I snatch or the likes from the car and the rear end decided to rip itself off the bar(w carriers) won't come flying off...

5868d95_20.jpeg
 
Started tack welding the bumper skin.. I'll get a professional to weld it properly..
When I get home from easter brake I'll continue on the project. Then it's time to start on the towbar.
 
^ Thanks Beigewagon, I have read your thread there more than 10x I think. It's been a good reference! I'm getting there, just need to find time to work on it.
 
Did some more work on the bar on Saturday arvo. Went and saw my friend Guy to help me out abit.. I need to find the time to take some pics, it should be together in a few weeks time. Then it can go to the paint shop so I can colour code it to my lower skirting :iconwink:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top