broken rear strut? knocking noise in the rear end
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Ratbag
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Oh dear. Or words to that effect ... 
At least it narrows the causes down somewhat. The other things you mentioned are probably contributing as well. IIRC, some shot rubber bushes?
At least it narrows the causes down somewhat. The other things you mentioned are probably contributing as well. IIRC, some shot rubber bushes?
idw
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From some expirence with other subarus, It may very well be the strut. I'm glad the bearing was ruined and it wasn't a waste of money. I'll look at what some poly bushings cost in the next few days
Could someone take a picture of the right hand side sway bar and post a photo, mine looks bent inwards.
Could someone take a picture of the right hand side sway bar and post a photo, mine looks bent inwards.
thunder039
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ok ive just read the thread from the start.
have you replaced the struts yet?
the symptoms to me sound most likely a CV. i had very similar symptoms when i replaced one of my CV's with a new one (faulty) and it turns out the inner joint was stuffed.
i would replaced the rear shafts, there pretty cheap, 2nd hand from mordy auto's will be about $60 each if your on a budget, or if you live it melbourne area you will find a re-conditioned shaft easily. the rear shafts are very easy to do and can be done in about 20mins each side.
then if the noise is still there replace the struts, theses are more expensive then CV's thats why i suggest doing the CV's first.
have you replaced the struts yet?
the symptoms to me sound most likely a CV. i had very similar symptoms when i replaced one of my CV's with a new one (faulty) and it turns out the inner joint was stuffed.
i would replaced the rear shafts, there pretty cheap, 2nd hand from mordy auto's will be about $60 each if your on a budget, or if you live it melbourne area you will find a re-conditioned shaft easily. the rear shafts are very easy to do and can be done in about 20mins each side.
then if the noise is still there replace the struts, theses are more expensive then CV's thats why i suggest doing the CV's first.
idw
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I plan on replacing the rear cv's soon and the uni's. I've put promax after market's cv's on the front $100 brand new from supercheap auto and tbh they are built alot better than oem and the same price as reco'd, looking through the spec sheet also have better operating angles for lifted cars than the oem spec (which in my expirience just means they've been prepared to write down a bigger number than subaru).
But reading through your thread thunder it seems like almost the same problem, knocking noise under throttle and load clutch in on the flat noise gone. I've get to get around the replacing the sway bar links but as their cheap anyway I'll probably do so.
I've also been drawning up some plans for a 2" lift and 1" body spacers and plan on taking out the HD kings and selling them, but im not sure whether to change the cv's now or after I lift it more, which the rear cv's they will last longer if they settle into a height and angle than if changing it later on.
on another note I've been wondering if front strut camber bolts would fit on the rear of the forester as well, I dont see why not and being probably free at the wreckers might not be a bad idea, as they would be stronger than aftermarket ones. But i dont know if the rear hubs are shaped for camber bolts to begin with
But reading through your thread thunder it seems like almost the same problem, knocking noise under throttle and load clutch in on the flat noise gone. I've get to get around the replacing the sway bar links but as their cheap anyway I'll probably do so.
I've also been drawning up some plans for a 2" lift and 1" body spacers and plan on taking out the HD kings and selling them, but im not sure whether to change the cv's now or after I lift it more, which the rear cv's they will last longer if they settle into a height and angle than if changing it later on.
on another note I've been wondering if front strut camber bolts would fit on the rear of the forester as well, I dont see why not and being probably free at the wreckers might not be a bad idea, as they would be stronger than aftermarket ones. But i dont know if the rear hubs are shaped for camber bolts to begin with
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thunder039
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i will be giving them ago when my CV's give me trouble again, for $100 they sound good.
yep exactly the same symptoms (except mine were the front CV).
i would address the reliability issues before moding the car.
A reliable car is the best feature you can when you hit the tracks :iconwink:
Ratbag
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Gidday Thunder
An extremely sensible statement, with which I can only wholeheartedly agree. Couldn't stress the importance of this more either.
An extremely sensible statement, with which I can only wholeheartedly agree. Couldn't stress the importance of this more either.
taza
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^ Agreed there, especially as offroading does work your car hard no matter what type you do. Mostly your suspension.
NachaLuva
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Perhaps keep the HD Kings in the rear to allow for bum sag plus lets you load up the boot...
The camber bolts will only fit in the hole designed for them & only in the factory direction. The hole in the hub & on one side of the strut are larger.
You can fit them to the rear but you would have to (accurately) drill out the hub & ONE side of the strut, leaving the other side OEM size. I've thought of doing this as aftermarket camber bolts are much thinner than OEM but as I havent had any issues with mine I havent bothered. If you go aftermarket I'd recommend Whiteline. In reading through many threads on various forums no-ones had a problem with them but many have had probs with other brands (slipping & snapping!!
)