Stolen: My camper trailer.

Gidday Barry

I agree with Guzzla, move the two spares to the back or sides of the trailer. Ditto with the jerry can holster/s.

When I re-jigged my trailer, the JC holders ended up behind the trailer axle for just this reason. e.g.

E-30_JAK_2012-_5067498_Ew.jpg


and towing angle (albeit unloaded ... )

E-30_JAK_2012-_5027485_Ew.jpg


I will measure the dolly wheel weight later when I can find some scales ... .
 
Be interesting to see what the towball download really is. It's certainly enough to overcome the self-levelling struts and make the front sit up a fair bit. That rear mounted spare wouldn't be helping either.

Hello Guzzla,
I no longer have thee self levelling struts, removed them to fit the KingSprings with the 1" lift.
The front tends to sit high since I fitted the KingSprings. What surprised me was that fitting the SubaXtreme front bar didn't 'correct' for my rear racks.
Will be going back to the original front springs with the 2" lift.
Probably get heavier rear springs made up for the new rear lift.
 
perhaps the trailer spare and/or the can racks might move to the rear flanks of the trailer to reduce the tongue weight ..?
 
Gidday Barry

I agree with Guzzla, move the two spares to the back or sides of the trailer. Ditto with the jerry can holster/s.

When I re-jigged my trailer, the JC holders ended up behind the trailer axle for just this reason. e.g. ... .

Morning Ratbag,

Can't fit either the spares or Jerry Cans on the sides of the trailer aft of the axle, as the 'coachwork' design was the guards within the body line.
The tail gate is swing down, and acts as a step for the bed, as it is a rear fold design. Therefore, can't have racks / wheel mounts on the tail gate.
Also, want to keep the racks on the back of the car for when travelling 'bob tailed'.
I do have a couple of ideas however:
1). Move the battery back flush with the front wall of the trailer, behind the wheel mount;
2). Fit a separate wheel mount on the rear of the trailer. It would be on a separate 'hinge' below the level of the tail gate, so it could be opened & closed independently of the tail gate. To keep the weight to be lifted within reasonable limits.
If the mount fitted into a 2" 'Hayman Reece' hitch receiver it could be removed when in camp. The hitch receiver could also be used for rear recovery, although there are already 2 recovery points fitted, one on each side below the tail gate.
Alternatively if there was also a pivot on the mount in addition to the hinge, once lowered the spare could be rotated under the camper when pitched.
Have also thought of an under floor mount at the rear of the axle, although It might be difficult to source a proper 'wind-up' type mount, and the wheel would be a bit heavy to lift. This option would also reduce the rear clearance & departure angle.
all things to think about.

I'm also trying to get hold of the plans for the 'boat' racks that Heaslip used to make for their campers. This would let me fit my roof rack at the rear to adjust weight by carrying stuff up there. It would also be good for mounting my tandem mountain bike, as it is WAY to long to carry sideways!
 
My Stockman Podtrailer normally carries the trailer spare at the front but with the storage box that I have located there the spare bolts under the rear of the trailer. It reduces the ground clearance a bit but the Forester is still the limiting factor there, and it is also a bit more inconvenient to access. I also carry a 20L fuel tank on each side of the trailer just in front of the wheels. With full 65L of water, 40L of petrol and fully loaded it puts 47kg on the towball with the loaded trailer weighing 450kg. It sits level and tows like a dream. I can pull on the steering hard at 120km'h and try to put the trailer into a sway but it won't - it just comes straight back on line with the car.
 
Reading Collyn Rivers book on CTs it seems that front lift from hi ball weight won't be helped with harder rear springs. The weight is just using the rear axle as a fulcrum. And stiffer springs mean a higher ride without the CT.

I'd consider a WDH.

Not saying that it's not worth messing about with CT loading but a lot of the action has to happen fairly close to the axle with diminishing returns.
 
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