Lift Kits - Options and Solutions

Guys, been doing a lot of reading on this site and think this would be good to add here/clear up. Please correct me if I have this wrong.


Seems generally accepted that 2" on struts only is max lift before angles on cvs and other drive components are compromised. Heres the part I want clarified.
If body lift lifts chassis & struts keeping drive components at same height relative to ground but body higher surely a combination of struts and body lift together would give you an even higher max approach and departure angles and gained ground clearance without drive issues?

eg: lift struts by more than 2" and offset that extra lift buy using different body only lift to in affect lower the components back to a 2" strut only type lift.

If 2" body & strut combo from someone like sumo gives you the same under diff/engine clearance as factory but better approach/departure, can you install this kit but use alternative strut lift which is higher?

hope that makes sense

Looking for clear answer on what maximum lift is before drive issues, what order and what components are used

maybe something like
1) 4" Strut lift
2) 2" body

result on drive angles = equivalent 2" strut only lift?
Just saw earlier in the thread SG foresters can't have body lift due to revised front end?
 
Last edited:
A 2inch lift with bigger tyres will give you quite a wack of ground clearence. My SH has only a 1inch strut lift and a 22mm larger tyres (11mm lift) and seems to have no issues really with clearence.
 
BeeJ said:
Seems generally accepted that 2" on struts only is max lift before angles on cvs and other drive components are compromised. Heres the part I want clarified.
If body lift lifts chassis & struts keeping drive components at same height relative to ground but body higher surely a combination of struts and body lift together would give you an even higher max approach and departure angles and gained ground clearance without drive issues?

eg: lift struts by more than 2" and offset that extra lift buy using different body only lift to in affect lower the components back to a 2" strut only type lift.
Click to expand...

I was running 3" strut lift for about 6 months without lift and a couple of offroad trips without issues. I just had lifted hilux cv boots put on. Taza is also running a touch over 3" of strut lift and hasn't had an issue.

IMO 2" strut lift plus 215/70/15 tires is sufficient for pretty much all sandwork and basicly almost everything you will put a subaru against.
 
BeeJ said:
That awesome
Where did you get the 3" strut kit?
(you are just talking 4x 3" camber corrected blocks between strut and strut top yea?)
Click to expand...

I had 2" camber corrected blocks. They sit on top of the strut top, then have studs which bolt onto the body of the car. Then 1" raised king springs on top of that.
Taza has the same (although his are slightly higher than 2" blocks and his springs are dobinsons).

I definitely recommend when lifting the car that you get new heavy duty springs such as king springs. I put my lift blocks in with stock springs, and they collapsed and I dropped back to about stock height and the handling/ body roll was really sloppy.

One thing to note is that although we didn't have any problems with 3" strut lift doesn't mean no one will. You would probably find yourself having to replace a cv or two every 50,000 kms or so. But really what's a cv or two every couple of years for all the lifted awesomeness. The extra cost in doing a full body lift would pay for a few cvs, bearings etc anyway.
 
BeeJ said:
That awesome
Where did you get the 3" strut kit?
(you are just talking 4x 3" camber corrected blocks between strut and strut top yea?)
Click to expand...

2" blocks and raised springs mate. That's what I have. My rear blocks are 65mm, rear springs 35mm. Front blocks 50mm and front springs 30mm. I made the blocks that way so the rear sits slightly higher, then with a heavy load offroad it sits level or slightly higher at the rear. I got sick of my rear bumper catching on sand and rocks breaking it offroad with my 2" lift I had.

You can't put body lift in SG Foresters, Only SF and BF Outbacks :iconwink:

I find my lift now is definitely plenty, I can pretty much go through anything or even charge at it without clearance or approach angles being an issue, it's great. Very good modifications and makes offroading much less worrying. While my 2" lift previously(had in the car for 18months) worked well and made a big difference it just wasn't enough for what I wanted to do.
Now it's just power and open diffs thats the issue for me :ebiggrin:
 
You will soon have the power, Taza, with the 2.5 N/A...and I'll soon have a rear diff locker, maybe should we mix the two cars !
 
great thanks guys. Its locked in then
2" sumo strut lift and 1" kings
I have the luxury spec, I just looked under rear end and pretty sure I have self leveling rear suspension. (little cylinders on outside of strut @ front)
I have previously read you cant put lift springs in those struts, is it just a matter of getting aftermarket rear struts? (also sumo?)

How often are you supposed replace struts? I mean you replace shock absorbers after x kms, are struts the same?
 
Gidday BJ

We did the front struts on the '94 Camry at about 150,000 kms and around 15 y.o. This was typical of this car, which was made in Oz ... nuff said!

My '93 Impreza had never had the struts touched when I sold it at 234,000 kms and 18 y.o. The handling was still excellent, with no sign of 'wobbly' suspension or steering components.

Unless there are specific problems - bounce (both up and down motions should be smooth and even, not sharp or uneven); physical damage or leaks; bush/mounting damage or looseness; noises when shaking the car violently from side to side by hand, or up and down - it should not be necessary to replace struts.

They are not like olden day shock absorbers, which were far smaller and thus more likely to wear. MacPherson struts are also made to the much higher manufacturing tolerances that have been a commonplace for the last 20+ years.

When I was about 18 y.o., I remember asking someone (BMC workshop manager - Neville Keid) why no one had thought to combine the shock absorber and spring into one heavier duty component. A few years after that we started seeing all sorts of cars using MacPherson struts, which were invented a very long time before - in fact around the time I was born! It also appears from the above Wikipedia article that the design dated from about 3 decades before this.
 
You'll need camber bolts for the rear if you use a sumo kit. I'm not sure what other kits are available. Are crossbred performance still making them?
 
If you have self levelling rear suspension you will need to replace the rear struts. I recommend KYB struts, can be bought from any Covs.
 
stilson said:
Didn't you break a few sets of KYB struts and have to take your lilt out?
Click to expand...

Yeah because of the Outbacks bad strut design combined with my raised extremely stiff springs . Foresters are a different story (Taz has rear KYBs and have been the only thing on his car not to break :raz:). My front struts are the same as the forester and they haven't had an issue.

For hardcore offroading with an Outback I don't recommend raised springs, but instead just taller lift blocks. That or some serious custom work like welding to the rear struts.
 
Ok guys
Still reading and chatting to other forum members, seems there is a few guys are not recommending 1" lift springs. Reasons are harshness and loss of articulation off road.

That means I can only lift 2" and thats with sumo strut blocks. Can you use them + trailing arm spacers if you have self leveling rear struts?

Any other way to get more height?

I see many people have said cant do body lift on SG foresters. What are these items listed on sumos site?
https://sumoparts.3dcartstores.com/SUMO-4-Lift-Kit-Body-Style-2003-2005_p_48.html
and
https://sumoparts.3dcartstores.com/SUMO-2-Block-Lift-Kit-for-2003-2005-SG5_p_80.html
 
BeeJ said:
Ok guys
Still reading and chatting to other forum members, seems there is a few guys are not recommending 1" lift springs. Reasons are harshness and loss of articulation off road.

That means I can only lift 2" and thats with sumo strut blocks. Can you use them + trailing arm spacers if you have self leveling rear struts?

Any other way to get more height?

I see many people have said cant do body lift on SG foresters. What are these items listed on sumos site?
https://sumoparts.3dcartstores.com/SUMO-4-Lift-Kit-Body-Style-2003-2005_p_48.html
and
https://sumoparts.3dcartstores.com/SUMO-2-Block-Lift-Kit-for-2003-2005-SG5_p_80.html
Click to expand...

I think you would find yourself fairly happy with a combination of big tires and 2" lift blocks.
215/70/16 for example will give you about ~1.5-2" more clearance, add that to 2" lift blocks and your looking at 4" of lift already. You will have more clearance under the diff than a stock cruiser with that set-up. Then if you really want more you can always add raised springs later if you can live with a bit of a stiffer ride (and my articulation almost doubled with raised HD springs).
 
Davidov said:
IMO 2" strut lift plus 215/70/15 tires is sufficient for pretty much all sandwork and basicly almost everything you will put a subaru against.
Click to expand...

I agree that 2" of lift will be fine for sand & most other offroad situations. Steep rocky tracks are a totally different situation where 2" of lift can still have you dragging on your belly. Sand causes little damage whereas rocks will tear you a new a** :eek:

It all depends on where & how hard you go....

I have HD King springs & although they are a little harsher & it does reduce articulation, it allows much greater load carrying capacity, greatly improves handling & allows greater speed up a ramp (like at the start of a sand dune) without bottoming out. I think you will be happy with raised springs plus a small lift...
 
Last edited:
Sure looks like an SG body lift dosent it? Don't see a price listed so perhaps it is still in development. Send Joseph an email and see what the deal is.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top