Lift Kits - Options and Solutions

taza

taza

Forum Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2010
Messages
3,820
Location
Perth, Western Australia
Hi Guy's, with all the threads this year about lift kits I thought I'd write up a thread (hopefully can become a sticky) about lift kits for all model Subies, the most common choices, pro's + con's, rough costs, recommended brands and companies. Pretty much all the info you need. I'd say we have had over 20 new thread this year about it (including myself for my stupidly high lift kit :lol:)

I have reserved some posts for myself too. the only vehicle I'm not sure on is the Brumby so if someone could please inform me of what's available for them, what fits, common options, etc... in a PM that would be greatly appreciated.

I will be including some pictures too, some of which will be members from the forum if they don't mind... I will be asking permisssion first and gather some details of their vehicles. This will probably take me a couple of days as I don't really have a spare 6hours in one go to sit here straight..

Taza


EDIT: Work in progress, still info to be added and modified

Anyone with anything to add, please let me know
 
Last edited:
Lift kits are used for a number of reasons but mainly to gain more clearance. Now there are 4 ways to lift a vehicle (Subaru in particular for this document);

1: Suspension lift; Suspenion lifting can be easily done on any late model Subie (mid 90's and onwards), it can also be done in the MY/L-Series(Leone) vehicles. This incorporates using lift blocks, spacers or raised springs ontop of the 4 struts. Now due to the monocoque design of Subaris(Single chassis/body unlike big 4WD's that have the body and chassis seperate) installing these spacers pushes the hub and wheels down which in turn raises the whole drivetrain and body of the vehicle. Now depending how much you lift it (lets use the average 50mm/2" blocks) the body and drivetrain will be raised this amount. (insert concept for strut bottom lift with links)

Pro's:
- Gained clearance under whole vehicle unlike body lift
- Room for bigger tyres
- Increased approach and departure angles

Con's:
- Increased CV(Axel), ball joint, steering arm and busher wear. Again depends on how much it's lifted by.
- Increased body roll due to higher centre of gravity
- Loss in articulation


2: Body Lift; Body lifting is like suspension lifting as it uses lift blocks/spacers on all 4 strut corners but unlike suspension lifting it also has body spacers at each point where the drive-train(engine, gearbox, exhaust, mounts, diff's, etc...)connects to the body of the vehicle. Now this separates the two leaving the drive-train at standard height but raising the body. This has a number of benefits over suspension lifting but again has it's con's too.

Pro's:
- No increased effect on CV, joint and busher wear
- No loss in articulation
- Increased approach and departure angles
- Increased room for bigger tyres

Con's:
- Not gaining clearance under engine, gearbox, diff's, etc...
- More expensive over suspension lift
- More time consuming to install
- Possible steering, brake line/s extensions needed (ABS???)

3: Tyre lift; Tyre lift is a method of running bigger/larger tyres to lift a vehicle. Now this is the number one best way to lift any vehicle as it lift's everything, even the control arm/s, hub, axels, everything. But with lifting using the tyre method there are more considerations that need to be investigated due to a number of effects it can cause. Then there's the type of tyres but that's for another thread...

Pro's:
- Lifts everything!!!
- Bigger tyres means they spread more when aired down (bigger foot-print)
- Correct tread and type of tyre can make a difference too

Con's:
- Increased tyre size means increased unsprung weight resulting in less engine performance and economy (Someone correct me here if im wrong??? plz)
- Effects engine and vehicles performance, economy, handling, braking

4: Outback Struts for Liberty; As the title states this is for a Subaru Liberty only but the exact same concept can be done to an Impreza from a Forester (insert - see D-Generates WRX Offroader)
(insert finish section 4)
 
Last edited:
Where to Buy Lift Blocks/kits:

Jackson Rally (1" strut lift only sold)
Subtle Solutions (1" strut lift only sold)
Cross Bred Performance (both strut lift and full body lift)
Sumo (Site Vendor - RECOMMENDED) 2"+ in both strut lift and full body lift
AuSubaru (Contact Dave from the link on their main website)
Subaxtreme???
Scorpion Subaru???
DIY (Plans for doing it yourself on here... Stilson has done this)

Recommended Brands:

Springs
- Kings (Raised or standard height - avaliable for most model of Subaru's)
- Dobinsons (Raised - For Forester/Impreza only)
- Ironman (Come from same Factory as Kings)

Struts/shocks

KYB Shocks/struts are pretty much the best you can get but can also be modified to be more heavy duty (insert Kevin's link)

Cost: Expensive!!

If your not mechanically minded(possibly determined) then there is no cheap way to install a lift kit in your Subaru and you should not consider to do it yourself as it can be dangerous..
If you are mechanically minded then you can possibly install the kit yourself with the help of a mate for the cost of a few beers. If you are either stupid or smart you can make your lift blocks up yourself!!! Just like Stilson on here has (insert devil smilie) **Note he is not an idiot**
Making the blocks yourself can be done for under $150 with the right skills, time and machinery
Otherwise if your not upto the task of putting them in then your other option is to pay someone. This can vary anywhere from $200-2000 depending on the what you get put in/replaced and how long it takes them. Either a mechanic, workshop or suspension joint can do this work for you.

* Top Tip: If you are paying someone to install your lift kit then it doesn't hurt to shop around and see what the cheapest you can get it done is.


 
Last edited:
Options and Solutions for lifting your type of Subaru

MY/L-Series

- 88(MY)

- 88-94(L-Series)

Brumby

Liberty/Outback

- 96-98 (Outback)

- 98-03 (Outback)

- 03-08 (Outback)

- 08-present (Outback)
Forester/Impreza

- 97-02 (Forester)

- 02-08 (Forester)
- 08-present (Forester)
 
Last edited:
Good idea. Take into account the now dated existing sticky on the topic as well. Superfluous posts to be deleted (including this one)
 
Hey Taza,
Con's:
- Increased CV(Axel), ball joint, steering arm and busher wear. Again depends on how much it's lifted by.
- Increased body roll due to higher centre of gravity
- Loss in articulation

Is it possible to put in over sized CV's in to reduce the wear?
 
taza said:
2: Body Lift; Body lifting is like suspension lifting as it uses lift blocks/spacers on all 4 strut corners but unlike suspension lifting it also has body spacers at each point where the drive-train(engine, gearbox, exhaust, mounts, diff's, etc...)connects to the body of the vehicle. Now this separates the two leaving the drive-train at standard height but raising the body. This has a number of benefits over suspension lifting but again has it's con's too.

Pro's:
- No increased effect on CV, joint and busher wear
- No loss in articulation
- Increased approach and departure angles
- Increased room for bigger tyres

Con's:
- Not gaining clearance under engine, gearbox, diff's, etc...
- More expensive over suspension lift
- More time consuming to install
- Possible steering, brake line/s extensions needed (ABS???)

3: Tyre lift; Tyre lift is a method of running bigger/larger tyres to lift a vehicle. Now this is the number one best way to lift any vehicle as it lift's everything, even the control arm/s, hub, axels, everything. But with lifting using the tyre method there are more considerations that need to be investigated due to a number of effects it can cause. Then there's the type of tyres but that's for another thread...

Pro's:
- Lifts everything!!!
- Bigger tyres means they spread more when aired down (bigger foot-print)
- Correct tread and type of tyre can make a difference too

Con's:
- Increased tyre size means increased unsprung weight resulting in less engine performance and economy (Someone correct me here if im wrong??? plz)
- Effects engine and vehicles performance, economy, handling, braking

4: Outback Struts for Liberty; As the title states this is for a Subaru Liberty only but the exact same concept can be done to an Impreza from a Forester (insert - see D-Generates WRX Offroader)
(insert finish section 4)
Click to expand...

I have a 3" body lift kit on a 1997 outback. The modifications needed (minor)
Extend fuel lines and vapor lines under the hood

DSC00743.jpg


Loose the bracket that holds the airbox over the engine.

DSC00760.jpg



Loose one exhaust hanger to keep exhaust from banging on floor.
Slight modification into the electric fan shroud for peace of mind.

DSC00748.jpg


Fabricate/modify (for auto transmissions) the shifter cable bracket at the transmission. Stock cable works otherwise

Optional and major, flipping the rear sway bar so the links are in the proper position. I did not do this since I do not have air tools to break those huge bolts loose.

DSC00606.jpg



Brake lines are all fine as well as abs cables. I did need camber bolts in the front for alignment.
 
What do you all think about a highbrid body/suspension lift setup, where you lift the suspension(struts) with a block say 3-4"(like sumo 2" with new longer top studs installed and subtle 1" blocks on top), and than body lift the subframes ect. in the mid section of the car with a 2" or so setup.

just thinking this might give you alittle bit of the best of both worlds with ground clearance from extra suspension lift(2" or so when adding in the body spacers) while trying to keep driveline angles more to the stock angles at all wheels with the body(2" or so) part of the lift to give you even more bumper clearance on top of the ground(suspension) clearance.

my questions are more on the stability and strength of these setups being that they are going to be abused like non other with us crazys driving them! hah

oh and thinking off my car an 02 forester, and probably missing some key points being that i am new to all this, so correct me please!
 
Last edited:
I like it. I would make custom 4" blocks for the struts rather than stacking though. 2" body and 3 or 4" trailing arm spacers. With that much lift some strengthening of the chassis rails would be worth considering. Camber bolts in the back end an additional set in the front would be needed and I would offset the blocks as far as possible.

Your lucky you have the SF as there is no body lift available for the SG due to the reworked front end.

Taza has 3" front and 4" rear without body lift and he hasn't had issues with CVs yet but I'm sure they're under more strain.
 
stilson said:
Taza has 3" front and 4" rear without body lift and he hasn't had issues with CVs yet but I'm sure they're under more strain.
Click to expand...

Mines going fine, done 20,000km on the lift kit. 3 of the CV's have 200,000km on them, 1 new one and a few new boots due to them being perished from old age..
It's good as it means I can go anywhere and clearance isn't really an issue, more power and open diffs...

I need to finish this thread when I find time..
 
Yeah stilson def don't really like the idea of stacking just thinking in quick trial ways for the idea, and as i don't have all the metal working tools right at my finger tips to do so at the moment

as far as spacers for the body type lift what kind of sizes do they make and maybe you could point me in the right direction for companys who make them so i can research them some

Camber might be issue being that with camber bolts installed on my little lift my bfg a/ts are really close to rubbing the struts as it sits, aired down prob would be even
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top