2" Lift Block or Block and Raised Springs

Hunter

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Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
104
Location
Canberra, ACT
Hi everyone,

I've been trawling through the forums for a while now and have an SG9 forester. I've been getting a bit confused as to whether a 2" Lift block or the raised kings and 1" block lift is the go.

Anyone have some good points either way?

Cheers
 
Hi everyone,

I've been trawling through the forums for a while now and have an SG9 forester. I've been getting a bit confused as to whether a 2" Lift block or the raised kings and 1" block lift is the go.

Anyone have some good points either way?

Cheers

this is really down to personal preference.
the HD springs will improve the handling through the bends, but does make the ride more firm and harsh on the rough roads.
ride quality is the reason why i would not get the HD springs again, unless i was doing a lot of towing.
the blocks will be cheaper to do also!
for comfort blocks- for road handling springs
just my opinion with having the springs.
 
Unless you actually need new springs id be inclined to just stick with lift blocks.

Raised springs (particularly on my crappy outback rear struts) put huge pressure on the spring perch (resulting in two collapsed struts for me) offroad. So just using lift blocks will keep pressure off the struts.
 
Unless you actually need new springs id be inclined to just stick with lift blocks.

Raised springs (particularly on my crappy outback rear struts) put huge pressure on the spring perch (resulting in two collapsed struts for me) offroad. So just using lift blocks will keep pressure off the struts.


Forester struts are completely different to outback struts davo
 
I don't like the idea of raised springs as they reduce articulation by taking up down travel. I'm also a bit iffy about the fact that the spring rates are so different yet they are still used with the standard damper rates of the struts. There is also no camber correction in 1" blocks and springs and I don't think adding camber bolts would be enough to get you back to spec. I dont know for sure though, maybe someone with springs and blocks will chime in.
 
Forester struts are completely different to outback struts davo

I know. But doesn't change the fact that they still put massive pressure on the struts so why do that when theres an alternitive. :iconwink:
 
Yep the camber bolts will let you adjust the camber back to whatever you want, but you're relying on a bolt that's half the diameter of the factory bolts, this on the part of the suspension that holds your entire wheel assemby on. If it fails...:eek:

I have them on the rear but wont put them on the front.

I'd prob go with the blocks but with HD springs in the rear not the front. The rear CVs will be fine, it gives you a little extra handling & weight carrying capacity plus a bit of extra rear clearance. But IMO wont negatively affect the offroad ability through loss of wheel droop like the front does.
 
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I have both, raised kings (30mm) & a 1" strut top lift on my Forry (MY05 XT)

Yes you will put some stress on the CV's due to the lift, but with mine, so far so good.
Sure I've replace 2 CV's due to ripping the boots, but the actual CV's were still ok.

With raised springs you will loose some wheel travel as stilson said. But you can always disconnect the sway bar links if you want, which will help.
As for the ride, yes it is firmer, but nothing to harsh. But thats just my personal opinion.

When I fitted mine, I didn't need to worry about camber bolts, but they are a good idea.

Just remember that if you have self leveling rear struts, you'll have to replace them if you go with the raised spring option.

If I had my time over, I would most probably go the same way again.

Just my 2 cents worth. Hope this helps.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Thanks for the quick replies!

I am thinking of going with the 2" strut top lift kit from Sumo and a pair of trailing arm spacers from them as well. I read in another thread here that Sumo were releasing a camber corrected version of the lift blocks? Also will I need camber bolts if I get this setup? It's for a standard 07 Forester X.

Cheers
 
The 1" blocks are just a block of steel or alloy, the 2" blocks are a top & lower plate joined by tube which is all welded together with an offset. So you cant have camber offset with 1" blocks but ALL decent 2" lift blocks should have it.
 
Thanks a lot for the info! I'll order in the 2" sumo kit. I'll put up some pics once I get the bullbar and lift kit fitted.

Cheers
 
Sounds great Hunter :)
I know it's obvious, but make sure you get a wheel alignment too, after you've installed the lift :iconwink:
Looking forward to seeing the pics :raz:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Yeh will definitely get an alignment done after!
Also is there any other modifications that would need to be made after installing the kit, I read somewhere that someone had to modify their exhaust and raise their airbox?

Cheers
 
Not if it's just a strut top lift, I think that would be for a body lift.

You might need longer swaybar end links but that's about it.
 
Yeh will definitely get an alignment done after!
Also is there any other modifications that would need to be made after installing the kit, I read somewhere that someone had to modify their exhaust and raise their airbox?

Cheers

Hi Hunter,

Not sure if it was my journal that you were reading, but I have detailed on here that I had to modify my muffler and the air intake at the front - but this was not due to the lift. It was due to the bullbar and rear bar I installed which left said parts exposed.

I really look forward to seeing your before and after pics! :raz:

All the best with the job!
 
Ok cheers, yeh also read something on ozfoz about it. I'm about to fit an 03-05 bullbar on my 07. Why did you have to move the air intake and how far?

Cheers
 
Ok cheers, yeh also read something on ozfoz about it. I'm about to fit an 03-05 bullbar on my 07. Why did you have to move the air intake and how far?

Cheers

Hi Hunter,

I did the same thing - fitted an 03-05 bullbar on my 07 Foz (it's much better than the moulded one Subaxtreme make for our model, in my humble opinion). The 03-05 bullbar is not designed for it, so (as with all modifications) you inevitably run into some issues and further modification requirements. There are positives and negatives to every modification one makes to their car :shrug:.

You can see my bullbar installation here (just scroll down).

There are actually two issues you will run into when you install the bullbar:

- Requirement to modify the air intake bottle (monstrosity left hanging down on the drivers side), and
- Requirement to replace and relocate the washer bottle (also a monstrosity, left hanging even further down on the passenger side).

These two items are usually protected by the stock plastic bumper bar.

I had my bullbar installed only around 3 months ago and have completed just one of these two jobs (although, the second one is scheduled to occur in the next two weeks - can't wait for that). I should mention that they are not hard jobs - quite easy actually (I've just been putting them off) - and NOT expensive at all! It's also worth mentioning that they are not critical. They just impact on your front and side approach angles. It depends on the level of off roading you're going to do. With what I have done, and plan to do, I would be likely to damage them in some way, so I've decided to put the effort in (plus, it's more aesthetically pleasing and more of a complete look if done).

So, without turning this post into a book, essentially what I have done (and will do in the next week or two) is:

- Removed the air intake bottle and cut it neatly in half with a hacksaw. I then sealed it up with silastic and a small aluminium plate (thin and light). Be sure to drill a small hole in the aluminium plate. Then replaced. Job done.

- Purchased a washer bottle from an earlier model Impreza or Outback (a mate of mine just bought an Outback wreck, but a good Subaru wreckers should be able to sell you one cheaply). In these cars, the washer bottle is located under the bonnet, behind the battery (rather than in front of the passenger side front wheel). Remove the old bottle, including wiring, pump motors, etc. and install the new washer bottle in the cavity behind the battery. I should mention that this is the plan. I foresee no major issues, but I will try to detail on here when I have completed this job.

I hope this helps you decide what you might need to do. I'd be very keen to see some pics of your car and the installation of the bullbar if you're able to upload them :raz:

Cheers
 
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Last week I got the bullbar powder coated 'antique silver' and fitted by Subaxtreme in Goulburn. They were great to deal with.

Took about a week to get the powder coating done and then drove up one arvo and got it fitted in a few hours. Also got them to weld up an aluminium washer bottle to replace the original one that hung down. Still need to fix up the air box and put the splash guard in. But overall it come up great and the blokes who fitted it were really good to work with.

Cheers
 

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Also with the splash guard fitted over the washer bottle
 

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