Taza's Forester engine options

You're being very mysterious lol :raspberry:

Is it an auto locker like a detroit locker or one of those locking thingys that go inside an open centre?

Or do we just have to wait lol :iconwink:
 
NachaLuva said:
You're being very mysterious lol :raspberry:

Is it an auto locker like a detroit locker or one of those locking thingys that go inside an open centre?

Or do we just have to wait lol :iconwink:
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Well it's an auto locker but different to a detroit locker and I have also made manual locker but I need a sand blaster so I can get the surface rust off my old 4.11 diff that I blew the spider gears on. Just gotta put it in and rig up the cable to the handbrake. It's the one i've been working on for about 2 years.
 
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taza said:
I have also made manual locker but I need a sand blaster so I can get the surface rust off my old 4.11 diff that I blew the spider gears on. Just gotta put it in and rig up the cable to the handbrake. It's the one i've been working on for about 2 years.
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Very cool :cool:
 
Hey Taza

I agree with ST. No way would I use a sand blaster on a case hardened surface. IMO, it would damage the surface of the gears. It also has the possible risk of introducing extremely fine sand particles into places where they are all but impossible to remove - except when they are reassembled inside the gear box ...

A decent wire brush is a much better way to do it ... Plenty of solvent washes along the way.
 
We are playing pingpong Taza ! I am thinking of a commercial differential because the mechanic that should make the locker hasn't started it yet...and you are just about to make one, cool !
 
Are you talking about a rear diff locker? if so will it suit all the R160s right down to the
L series?

oh and for engine options, go diesel.... put in a turbo... just sayin ;)
 
Superu_legacy said:
A good write-up Bennie.
I'd like to get your two cents on the behavioral differences between a VLSD and CLSD in the rear diff of a full time AWD.
I suspect the CLSD acts like a locked diff until it need to slip where as a VLSD acts like an open until it need to grip.

I have a CLSD and for about the 1st year it seems to be binding all the time while driving on pavement, now it doesn't so i wonder if its broken in now and loosened up for daily driving, or just broken (haha) and not "locking" any more.
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Dunno about the drive difference of the two. But the CLSD will click when turning if wound up really tight or hasn't been broken in, you could feel a shudder like effect as this happens too.
As for the VLSD I think the oil needs to heat up before anything happens...

Species said:
Are you talking about a rear diff locker? if so will it suit all the R160s right down to the
L series?
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Yep, all R160's are the same in the subarus with the only difference being in the output stubs being male or female arrangement.

How's that engine going anyway Taza? I haven't read a recent "report" on how it's going!

Cheers

Bennie
 
El_Freddo said:
Yep, all R160's are the same in the subarus with the only difference being in the output stubs being male or female arrangement.
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I'm not sure as I have 2 different R160 diffs, one from my '97 Forester and another from a '03 SG. The output stubs are smaller in the '03 than the '97 (both female) and the other difference is that the bearing is bolted on the '97 and screwed on the '03. I could take a photo but I can't post it !
 
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jf1sf5 said:
I'm not sure as I have 2 different R160 diffs, one from my '97 Forester and another from a '03 SG. The output stubs are smaller in the '03 than the '97 (both female) and the other difference is that the bearing is bolted on the '97 and screwed on the '03. I could take a photo but I can't post them !
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Fair enough. I was commenting more on the ability of the subaru R160 diff being able to be bolted into any R160 fitted Subaru rather than the nitty gritties of the internals - I've never looked that closely at them either!

Cheers

Bennie
 
El_Freddo said:
How's that engine going anyway Taza? I haven't read a recent "report" on how it's going!
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Great mate, got almost 10,000km on it. Undyno'ed but I have modified the tune a large amount. Running a little rich if anything but that's alright. Timing advanced a few degrees and goes like a bat out of hell, for a 4 cylinder non turbo. Very happy, goes well, plenty of power in all situations. I'd say it goes similar to a EJ22 L-Series on 13's.
It does drink the fuel around town. 10-13l to the 100km but goes down to 7-8 once you start cruising at 100km/hr on the freeway.

Eats the beach sand, I'm yet to have her stuck with the new engine. Going to get a 2' 1/4" cat back with high flow cat soon so that'll give a nice little note along with a few more horses from under the bonnet.
 
Gidday Taza

Good to hear that you are so pleased with your transplant, mate.
Getting under 11 around town strikes me as pretty good for a heavy car (1.5 tonnes) with a pretty powerful motor with plenty of torque (for a N/A donk).

Mine seems to be stuck on between 11.4 to 12.4 around town, but drops to around 7 on the highway.

I was a tad p!ssed off with the around town mileage, to be quite frank.

Then, yesterday morning, The Age did a fuel economy test comparing similar size engined cars around the same weight and compared this with the fantasy figures we see advertised under ADR "fairy floss" fuel consumption figures.

The 2.0L turbo Falcon which is supposed to do around 11.8L/100 Km actually turned in around 14.4L/100 Km; even worse for the Mazda CX-5 AWD at 11.6; and far worse for the Kia Optima at 15.2. Advertised figures are 8.2 and 11.2 respectively for these latter two!

Things aren't much better on the highway with actuals being 7.4, 8.7 and 7.4 compared with advertised of 6.0, 6.2 and 6.0.

So that makes the real figures around 30-40% worse than the advertised figures! We all knew that anyway, in our heart of hearts.

The tests were done over identical courses in each condition (urban/non-urban) with three different drivers taking turns in each car.

So it seems that my 2.5L grunty dinosaur, Roo2, isn't quite as heavy on fuel as I thought it was ... AND I prefer driving it ... :biggrin: :lol: :cool:

As usual, BS reigns supreme ... :poke:
 
taza said:
It does drink the fuel around town. 10-13l to the 100km but goes down to 7-8 once you start cruising at 100km/hr on the freeway.
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Ratbag said:
Mine seems to be stuck on between 11.4 to 12.4 around town, but drops to around 7 on the highway.
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I seem to be in the same boat as you guys :cool:
I've been averaging around the 12-12.5lts/100km's with my city driving & low 8's/100km's for freeway driving :neutral:

Ratbag said:
I was a tad p!ssed off with the around town mileage, to be quite frank.
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Me too, but now, after reading what you guys are getting, I don't feel so bad :cool:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Well tonight was the final straw!!! Almost 10,000km on the new engine and over 100,000km of me behind the wheel of her and she's finally gone! T-Boned by a bloody commodore :eek:

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Hahaha Just joking, she's running strong as ever. Getting very close to hitting 10k on the engine. Running smooth, all new suspension all round, new engine, gearbox, clutch and rear diff all new within the past year.
Just needs a few new CV's.
Engine has been the best change to the car, adequate power for all situations. Goes hard when you give it sh*t. Pulling onto the freeway flat out she'll upto 100km/hr pretty well in 3rd gear :cool:
Haven't been on a proper weekend away trip offroad yet as life gets in the way.
I have found myself on numerous occasions taking off in 2nd or 3rd gear from a standstill. Very surprising how it takes off in 3rd gear easier than that the 2.0l donk did from a standstill in 1st.
 
So how did you manually advance the timing? I thought NAs could not be tuned!
 
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