thunder039
Forum Member
i would still rather have a rear locker/lsd in the rear then go to the effort of putting in a lsd in the front. the lsd in the front would be my last mod
i would still rather have a rear locker/lsd in the rear then go to the effort of putting in a lsd in the front. the lsd in the front would be my last mod
Why piss around with a 12lb when you can put a DCCD in there and set the front rear bias to where you want, also 12 & 15kg center diffs are rarer than hen's teeth
Mine is for sale for $700, you'll need the controller but it'll go in without it and give 35f/65rear standard.
Exactly why I sold my new STI plated diff and put the OBX in, also made $1,050 on the deal and can run ABS and any oil I want, also no clunking every time you go around a corner, you'd never know the OBX was in there.
Like others I think that when including the $$$ issue, the rear diff is the first thing to look at, then work your way forward.
Thats what I'm starting to think. If/when I do the centre I'd be wanting to do l-series LR plus front LSD all at the same time...easier & cheaper to do the rear first...gives more bang for your buck!
I am well aware of the issues with 5 speed DCCD's in a WRX type application. One of the guys in our club has a 22B and another an RA. The problems though are around issues with motorsport, not offroading. In those instances the DCCD can be found wanting. Part of this was because the settings would for one section of the course worked well, but you had to change it manually to another setting further along the course and back again. Off road, I think it might be different, but as I am not aware of anyone running a 5 speed DCCD off road I cannot say for sure.
By way of history even the 6 speed DDCD's have changed. In 2006- and I am talking ADM here- Subaru changed to a DCCD which also had something like a plated centre diff in conjunction with the DCCD. What that means is that you can actually run the DCCD without a controller. Earlier 6 speed DCCD (MY05 effectively) did not have this. Getting an after market controller to work on the earlier box in a motorsport application proved difficult.
The point is that I do not think we can look at motorsport issues with the 5 speed DCCD and then say tose issues will carry across to off road applications. Which is why some testing would be nice, if impractical for most. The Cusco centres mentioned- which I was not aware of, also look interesting and something to contemplate.
This makes me think some trial and error is in order before any group buy...
Agreed. The best setup is the vortex AWD centre that can be locked with the flick of a switch. I only know of 3 people who have this and use if offroad(Venom, RSR and soon El_Freddo). Too bad it can't be remanufactured for an EJ box and sold otherwise I think all of us would have it. It would certainly remove the 'real 4WD' issue as the only thing between us and them is the locking centre and lockers. I would definately pay good money for it too.
FYI I envy your car so much as it's basically the awesome version of my car! I just couldn't do the H6 as I couldn't live with it overheating.
That seems to be solved.
Did the bonnet vents really make that much difference?
Well time for me to spill the beans.
My rear locker I am putting in is Phantom Grip. After much research I found that it works the same as a clutch type LSD but has the ability to lock under heavy accelleration. When one wheel is spinning more than the other (ie diaganl but at the rear lets say) it can sense the friction which causes the springs to bind and effectively locks the spider gears. This would be good for a rocky hill climb, mud (where you nearly always have wheels spin) and sand.
After seeing it in action offroad too I was almost sold on it.
I do have my front geared LSD too which will go in but this won't happen anytime soon. I find diagnal spin to me more of an issue than one wheel spin so effectively like Norrie said a F & R LSD are more beneficial.
Taza
Hi Taza,
I had never heard of this mob so I asked around a bit. Two blokes in our club with motorsport experience have already got back to me and suggested that the factory plated diffs were superior, based on the information on the link you provided. If you are interested in more detail let me know
I know most of these guys and they drive VERY hard and most are punching out between 300 & 500hp at the wheels so totally different to our application of trying to crawl over a rock or up a steep track, Doug is a rally driver and Tuna has been known to put more than 30psi through a stock motor.https://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/genera...460-best-performing-non-dccd-centre-diff.html
a few reasons why DCCD can be a problem. I have a H6, and am not confident that I wouldn't wreck it.
Forget doing a group buy on anything, you'll end up paying import duty & 10% GST, also most Japanese dealers don't give enough discount to make it worth it, I know JapanParts won't do group buys and they supply heaps here in WA......It'll cots lots more and take longer going through customs, also no door to door delivery.