Air up?

RG your's is similar to mine but mines a Lion (Aussie brand). Does 90L per min also.

I have found it to be great, done ~300 pumps in the last 20months and hasn't missed a beat other than 1 blown fuse. I always carry spares though.
 
G'day again mate

taza said:
RG your's is similar to mine but mines a Lion (Aussie brand). Does 90L per min also.
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There are a whole swag that look identical, and almost certainly are identical ...
The ONLY difference is the price ...

Princess Trading sell them for about $60 + P&H. I have seen them at over $300!! Identical in every respect, except for the name sticker.

I have found it to be great, done ~300 pumps in the last 20months and hasn't missed a beat other than 1 blown fuse. I always carry spares though.
Click to expand...

That's very cheering to know.
Mine has done about 10~20 :iconwink: :lol:.
 
^ I can usually pump all 4 tyres from 14-30psi in just over 5mins. But by the time you check all the tyres and put the pump away 10mins.

Great little things they are, mine was a present from graduating high school so im not sure on the cost..
 
I have a warn vtc I used on my jeep to air up 33 and 40" tires, now im afraid to hook it up to my outback because of the amp draw. Pulls almost 200amp but creats 8cfm at 90psi.. im now looking at viair air compressors. Something that wont kill my alternator.
 
^ can't go wrong with Viair - 5 year replacement warranty no questions asked, and all parts are available!
 
Gidday DJP

dajeepman said:
I have a warn vtc I used on my jeep to air up 33 and 40" tires, now im afraid to hook it up to my outback because of the amp draw. Pulls almost 200amp but creats 8cfm at 90psi.. im now looking at viair air compressors. Something that wont kill my alternator.
Click to expand...

As long as you keep the engine running, it shouldn't matter how much it draws. When you crank your car, the starter motor is drawing around 400-500 amps at its lock torque ...

I doubt very much that your compressor would draw 200A at running speed - maybe at power on, but that wouldn't last more than a few seconds, at most. The motor on my new dual cylinder one will not blow a 30A fuse, even though the maximum current draw is officially 50A. It delivers 150L/min (5.29 cu.ft./min), at up to 150 psi.

Try it for a short burst and see if it functions OK. My bet is that you won't even notice. Check for over-heating of the cables during testing; and/or 'slowness' of the compressor reaching operating pressure.
 
I have a 400 series and am very happy with it.
 
Ratbag said:
Gidday DJP



As long as you keep the engine running, it shouldn't matter how much it draws. When you crank your car, the starter motor is drawing around 400-500 amps at its lock torque ...

I doubt very much that your compressor would draw 200A at running speed - maybe at power on, but that wouldn't last more than a few seconds, at most. The motor on my new dual cylinder one will not blow a 30A fuse, even though the maximum current draw is officially 50A. It delivers 150L/min (5.29 cu.ft./min), at up to 150 psi.

Try it for a short burst and see if it functions OK. My bet is that you won't even notice. Check for over-heating of the cables during testing; and/or 'slowness' of the compressor reaching operating pressure.
Click to expand...

whats the specs on your compressor? 5.29cu.ft min at what psi?


The warn VTC has a 200a fuse in it.. so it can put up to 200a before blowing the fuse..
 
Gidday DJM

dajeepman said:
whats the specs on your compressor? 5.29cu.ft min at what psi?
Click to expand...

150 psi ...

The warn VTC has a 200a fuse in it.. so it can put up to 200a before blowing the fuse..
Click to expand...

That sounds like it is well and truly over-fused to me. The fuse rating should be at, or slightly below, the maximum current draw for any appliance. That's always assuming that the fuse in use is a "slow blow" fuse. This means that the fuse will accept an over-current draw, just so long as it doesn't go on for too long, like a couple of seconds or so.

Most wire (fusible link) type fuses are slow-blow fuses, IME.
 
Still learning here about everything. Until today I thought the small air compressor I'd purchased and used twice before it cactussed itself was another case of getting what I deserved for not buying something better quality.

First use the clamp that connects to your tyre valve snapped. Was repaired using a rivet. Second use (because I noticed a screw in my tyre and left it a day to long to see about it) it half inflated said tyre then would go no more. Not even 1 year old. No sign of a receipt (VERY unlike me)... so I filed the confounded compressor under my desk at my feet to remind me (every day for 2 months) to take the damn thing back and try and exchange it for something better.

Last week (for the first time in 2 months) I tried to use the GPS to navigate me somewhere. Confounded thing wouldn't work. Changed the fuse, still no joy. Cigarette lighter was cactus, so had it fixed.

So... today, again I kicked my foot on the confounded compressor under my desk and thought... I really should do something about that - compressor's are handy things when you're in the middle of nowhere with 2 flat tyres (yes... that has happened to me)....! Where else should one go but to this forum first to find out what's the best thing to have.......

A little reading later, and some Googling... and I wondered.

Instead of taking it back, I plugged it into the heavy duty battery pack that we have. Nothing wrong with it! works like a champ! Now I can't even remember if I had the car running the day I used it to pump up the tyre, BUT... it all makes sense now. It was probably what caused the cigarette lighter to have a meltdown, so from now on, I'll be plugging it into the battery pack to pump air!

Best regards,
 
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