N/A Supercharger Project x2

taza

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Perth, Western Australia
Going to do a supercharger project on my 2001 Forester 2.0l N/A and Daves (Davidov's) 2003 Outback 2.5l N/A

After reading up about it and talking to Raptor Chargers (they do kits for Subaru's both N/A and turbo aswell as other vehicles), Subarino (Ausubaru - Supercharged his old EJ22 N/A L-Series Hatch), a few guys on Ozfoz along with a couple of commodore (Holden) forums it doesn't seem too much invloved.

The Charger: SC14 Toyota supercharger which they ran on the Supra

Whats Invloved: If boost is kept low (below 5psi) then an ECU piggy back, intercooler and fuel system upgrades are not neccessary on an N/A EJ20,22 or 25. Since these engines are still only OBD I (until around 2005 I think it went OBD II in Australia) then it isn't hard to trick the ECU into running properly with the charger aslong as too much pressure and force aren't put on the engine. It needs to be kept within stock limits.

So in reality its pretty much bolting the charger on after making a bracket to fit in the engine bay, run some simple wiring and piping for the air intake and power, the pulley system needs to be lined up and a V-belt installed.

Parts:
- SC14 charger (includes the stock pulley)
- cheap ebay BOV (Blow off valve to allow air to vent when the manifold butterfly is closed) - I think that's the correct term...
- a V-belt to run between the charger, crank pulley and possibly A/C unit
- Air intake piping
- a steel bracket welded up to support the S/C
- Some simple power wiring and a dash switch to turn it on or off like your A/C compressor - This can only be done with certain types of S/C
- Pod filter

There will of course be small extra things but thats the majority of it from my understanding.

My EJ20 N/A will run around 4-4.5psi boost with the stock pulley while Daves EJ25 will be around 3psi. But by adding a smaller pulley you can increase the boost. The benefit of a supercharger over a turbo is that a supercharger you don't have to wait for it to spool up, you get instant power from idle.
The torque increase is massive unlike a turbo with a smaller Kw increase than a turbo.... Perfect for offroad. Plus having the ability to turn it on or off means you can have fuel economy when you want or the extra power!

The cost will likely be around $750 to do all this and we will probably do it on both vehicles.

It should be a fun little project and I will be keeping this updated.

Im hoping this will be done by the end of next week :D
 
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A number of people have done over 100,000km with superchargers on their N/A engines. Some running double the power of the stock 92Kw (EJ20). The engine will be able to handle the pressure. The only real issue could be fuel or starving the engine if too much boost is put through.

If I can get a slight power and decent torque increase I will be happy.
 
Been waiting for this :p

Going to do a supercharger project on my 2001 Forester 2.0l N/A and Daves (Davidov's) 2003 Outback 2.5l N/A

After reading up about it and talking to Raptor Chargers (they do kits for Subaru's both N/A and turbo aswell as other vehicles), Subarino (Ausubaru - Supercharged his old EJ22 N/A L-Series Hatch), a few guys on Ozfoz along with a couple of commodore (Holden) forums it doesn't seem too much invloved.

The Charger: SC14 Toyota supercharger which they ran on the Supra

Whats Invloved: If boost is kept low (below 5psi) then an ECU piggy back, intercooler and fuel system upgrades are not neccessary on an N/A EJ20,22 or 25. Since these engines are still only OBD I (until around 2005 I think it went OBD II in Australia) then it isn't hard to trick the ECU into running properly with the charger aslong as too much pressure and force aren't put on the engine. It needs to be kept within stock limits.

The 2001 Forester is OBDII.
Also, I think it would be too risky to boost a NA Subaru motor (even at less than half a bar) without using a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. They are cheap and very easy to implement and will be your only decent defence against getting engine det from running a 10:1 ratio block at boost. ECU piggy back is definitely not required but remember, the moment your MAP sensor sends back a pressure reading higher than expected then your ECU will put you in limp mode. Still reckon you'll need a MAP voltage clamp to keep the build reliable.


So in reality its pretty much bolting the charger on after making a bracket to fit in the engine bay, run some simple wiring and piping for the air intake and power, the pulley system needs to be lined up and a V-belt installed.

Parts:
- SC14 charger (includes the stock pulley)
- cheap ebay BOV (Blow off valve to allow air to vent when the manifold butterfly is closed) - I think that's the correct term...
- a V-belt to run between the charger, crank pulley and possibly A/C unit
- Air intake piping
- a steel bracket welded up to support the S/C
- Some simple power wiring and a dash switch to turn it on or off like your A/C compressor - This can only be done with certain types of S/C
- Pod filter

There will of course be small extra things but thats the majority of it from my understanding.

My EJ20 N/A will run around 4-4.5psi boost with the stock pulley while Daves EJ25 will be around 3psi. But by adding a smaller pulley you can increase the boost. The benefit of a supercharger over a turbo is that a supercharger you don't have to wait for it to spool up, you get instant power from idle.
The torque increase is massive unlike a turbo with a smaller Kw increase than a turbo.... Perfect for offroad. Plus having the ability to turn it on or off means you can have fuel economy when you want or the extra power!

The cost will likely be around $750 to do all this and we will probably do it on both vehicles.

It should be a fun little project and I will be keeping this updated.

Im hoping this will be done by the end of next week :D
 
Im yet to get it to work with an OBD II reader of any kind, plus it has the OBD greena nd black plugs under the dash which allow the check engine light to flash if there are codes.

I will look into a rising rate fuel pressure regulator and add it to the list.

EDIT: Cluster Flock, do you have any recommendations for a fuel pressure regulator? It obviously needs to be reliable and not cheap ebay rubbish.

What about this?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNIVERS...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5fa441e9
 
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Will be an interesting, aswell as a great project to watch you do mate :)
Can't wait to see it when it's finished :)

Might have to change your user name to "superTaza" aswell :lol: :poke: :lol:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
If I do this I will officially admit to being a hardcore fanatic. lol

Im really hoping for a low end torque increase because at the moment anywhere below 2500rpm is just useless in the foz both on and offroad.

I hope I do finish it. I just missed out on a good buy on one charger on ebay so I will have to keep looking. They are pretty common though.
 
If you decide to go with the RRFPR suggestion (which I must urge that you do ;) ) then only go with SARD regulators. They are the best on the market, just be careful no to purchase from anyone dodgy because you'll get a fake reg in a SARD box.

Ratio wise, from my research it would appear a 12:1 RRFPR is what is recommended for turbo installs on NA motors. At the end of the day, boost is boost whether it is turbo or supercharged so I guess the recommendations are the same.

As for the OBDII issue. THey are definitely OBDII; are you 100% sure you're using the OBDII port?
 
I'll be following this thread very closely. Who knows, one Ozzie might get blown :discomonkey:

I know you're doing your research Taza, remember though detonation (pinging) is a real engine killer & any kind of lean out, which if it happens will do so when you're pushing the engine hardest, causing the most damage.

I really hope this works and gives you both a performance boost with no reliability issues :biggrin:
 
If you decide to go with the RRFPR suggestion (which I must urge that you do ;) ) then only go with SARD regulators. They are the best on the market, just be careful no to purchase from anyone dodgy because you'll get a fake reg in a SARD box.

Ratio wise, from my research it would appear a 12:1 RRFPR is what is recommended for turbo installs on NA motors. At the end of the day, boost is boost whether it is turbo or supercharged so I guess the recommendations are the same.

As for the OBDII issue. THey are definitely OBDII; are you 100% sure you're using the OBDII port?

Will this do for the RRFPR?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sard-Ad...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab2ee2ee2

Yes I was using the OBD II port under the dash, just near the steering colum. The connection fit and lights lit up but no signal was recieved by the computer.

Plus there are the black and green connectors under the dash which indicate OBD I.
 
I'll be following this thread very closely. Who knows, one Ozzie might get blown :discomonkey:

I know you're doing your research Taza, remember though detonation (pinging) is a real engine killer & any kind of lean out, which if it happens will do so when you're pushing the engine hardest, causing the most damage.

I really hope this works and gives you both a performance boost with no reliability issues :biggrin:


Thanks mate, the engine should handle it no problems its more just the starvation of the enigne due to lack of fuel which will be the biggest issue. But if I upgrade a few things then she should be fine :)
 
That regulator will do the trick, assuming it's genuine ;)

On the issue of fuel starvation. The stock injectors will do just fine with the added pressire that the RRFPR provides. I'm probably just telling you what you already know, but the FPR just automatically increased fuel system pressure as required (by taking vacuum pressure from the intake) by lowering the rate at which the fuel returns to the tank in the rail system. Stock injectors and a stock fuel pump should do the trick, but putting in a Walbro 255 pump certainly wont hurt and is probably something I would suggest considering. Converting to parallel rails (easy enough DIY) will also help prevent the notorious lean out on cylinder # 3.
 
Cluster Fock is there a way to tkae the car out of limp mode if it goes into it?

With the type of supercharger it can be turned on and off via a switch in the cabin. So if I am having issues with the ECU I can leave it off and am still able to drive the car until it can be looked at.
 
Well, I don't know if limp mode is really the correct term for me to have used. I do know it will skitz out your ECU if the voltage reading from the MAP sensor is too high (ie: above a couple of PSI).

I'm sure it's nothing that resetting the ECU wont fix, by disconnecting the battery.

So basically all the voltage clamp does is allow the MAP sensor to work as normal, then once the MAP is reading too high a reading the voltage clamp just resists the voltage feedback to the ECU so the ECU thinks all is normal and doesn't recognize the boost. This is where the FPR comes in, it will naturally adjust to the higher boost, increase fuel pressure to keep the cylinders fed all the while the ECU is oblivious to the extra 5 psi of pressure.
 
This will be awesome, i hope it works out well!

Sure is. I'm sure there will be some bugs to sort but once it is...yeehaa :lildevil:

Mostly likely ordering 2x SC14 chargers off a reliable seller on ebay today.

$750 for 2 :twisted:

Awesome, well done! :biggrin:

Well, I don't know if limp mode is really the correct term for me to have used. I do know it will skitz out your ECU if the voltage reading from the MAP sensor is too high (ie: above a couple of PSI).

I'm sure it's nothing that resetting the ECU wont fix, by disconnecting the battery.

So basically all the voltage clamp does is allow the MAP sensor to work as normal, then once the MAP is reading too high a reading the voltage clamp just resists the voltage feedback to the ECU so the ECU thinks all is normal and doesn't recognize the boost. This is where the FPR comes in, it will naturally adjust to the higher boost, increase fuel pressure to keep the cylinders fed all the while the ECU is oblivious to the extra 5 psi of pressure.

So what is a voltage clamp? Is it a resistor that you put in line from the MAP sensor?

Looks like some more research here Taza lol
 
So what is a voltage clamp? Is it a resistor that you put in line from the MAP sensor?

Looks like some more research here Taza lol

Yeah, im going to start off with the basics and work through it. Since I will be able to turn it off it means if im having issues with it they can wait until ive completely moved to Perth, if not done before then. That way my car will still be usable until I can find the free time to work on her :)

Probably going to buy both chargers today along with the RRFPR, BOV which I will all get online.
 
Good times!

I looked into this for Ruby Scoo, but decided that the available space was going to be used for an endless air setup plus I'm too tight to run 98RON all the time :D

Would be sick to have! I've been in Dave's old Hatchie doing a lane change at 100km/h simply by switching the charger on while the foot was planted - scary stuff if you don't know that you're dealing with, but that was front wheel drive too.

You should be fine with what ever boost you run up to 10psi so long as you keep the ECU happy as you've said - you just need to know your limits before you need to go down the piggy back route ;)

Supercharger + rear manual locker = win in my book :bananagunner:

Cheers

Bennie
 
Supercharger + rear manual locker = win in my book :bananagunner:

Yeah it would. I reckon my subie would go almost anywhere within some limits. Plus I wouldn't keep getting stuck with the diagnal spin, it would hopefully get me out of more trouble than into it.

A supercharged EJ22 with FWD wouldn't even be fun, it would be scary as F*&^!!! I would cr@p myself, especially since the thing weighs less than a ton (Hatchie of course :iconwink:).

When I get a Subaxtreme bullbar too it will look the deal. Look like a real 4x4 and not a toy as it currently does with the front bumper. The approach angle will be greatly increased too which is pretty important.

If I can do all that, over time of course she would be the perfect little machine :cool:
 
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