EJ25 Outback

You don't just add 2 whole cylinders, its a whole new engine. But goes in quite easily with an Outback, more room in the engine bay compared to a Foz. But its been done. Dulagarl on here has "The H6 Foz". Its a beast!. The H6 with a manual goes really well so im told too but quite average with an auto. Still a mean engine with heaps of grunt.

You could just swap the whole engine, would be well worth it if you have the $$$.

But be aware that you will loose quite abit of fuel economy too. But if its time for a new engine then it is a possibility.

Taza
 
im just surprised that someone hasnt thought this up yet, all you need is to modify the H6 sprockets to accept the H4 shafts, maybe a different idler pulley and tensioner

im in the engineering trades, it all looks pretty simple, but you'd need a development engine to iron out all of the bugs etc..
 
eddie351gt said:
im just surprised that someone hasnt thought this up yet, all you need is to modify the H6 sprockets to accept the H4 shafts, maybe a different idler pulley and tensioner

im in the engineering trades, it all looks pretty simple, but you'd need a development engine to iron out all of the bugs etc..
Click to expand...

= lots of $$$ lol :p
 
so what sort of fuel economy are you guys getting?

we went away this weekend to the entrance, i was getting approximately 11.7 litres per 100km, is that about right?
 
Last tank I got about 10l/100km, but that included a trip to Phillip Island and back. Around town its up around 12, on a trip it's around 8.5. Mine's a 2.5 manual.

I've got about 155,000km on the clock - should I be worried? Does a gasket give any warning that it's about to blow, and how do I know when it's gone?
 
2011-12-05182250.jpg


is this about the right area for the temp to sit at? (same with ac on and off) where does everyone elses temp sit at on the guage?
 
That looks about right to me. It's roughly the same as mine in the Forry, give or take a smidgen :iconwink: :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
ok thats good to know...

im getting the outback serviced on wednesday, at the same time im getting both front CV's replaced with reconditioned ones plus a detailed saftey check, hopefully nothing too ugly will raise its head. Im already expecting to possibly replace the centre bearing, but the mechanic will tell me whats what wednesday night when i pick it up.

hey, is there anywere i can purchase a new keyless entry button fob for my outback, when i bought the outback, it never came with it (the car yard was never given it when it was traded in) and if i buy one, will i have to get it codified to suit? or would i need to replace the transponder thingy in the car too?
 
Grump,

The head gasket issue with the EJ25 engines was sorted out around end of 2002. The cars affected are typically MY03 Foz and OB with engine built in '02. I had the issue with my old MY03 Forester. My mechanic had the engine out and changed to head gaskets from a later model - all up around $1500 including new timing belt. But it isn't a given that you will have a problem.

Typically you can spot the problem from either coolant or oil (or both) weeping from the head gasket. Most common to start from the underside of the front left hand side of the motor. If you are topping up your coolant regularly, you may have a problem (I was topping up every 5000km from around 110,000km).

If you were using genuine Subaru coolant for that model, it may have contained an additive to stop or slow the leaking.

Hope that helps.

Jon
 
well i got the car serviced, and full saftey check done, my mechanic said that the car is in reall good condition considering the km (323000) but it needs a new tail shaft centre bearing. Ive read that these can be very expensive through subaru,

what other tailshafts (ie liberty wagon) are interchangeable with the outback? and is a manual tailshaft the same length as an auto one?

what have other people done in the past to remedy a sh!tty centre bearing? is it worthwhile me getting a custom one peice tail shaft made up? or what would you guys recommend.

cheers lads

Eddie
 
grump said:
Well that's a relief - thanks Jon.
Click to expand...
Well, nearly 6 years since I posted that.

The OB is presently in TopTorque's workshop getting the leaky head gaskets changed - as well as rings, clutch (still had a dual-mass), radiator and other assorted engine bits. Will cost more than the second hand value of the car, but I reckon it's worth doing, as it's still a nice car.

BTW its done 198,000 km and was built in October 2002, so it falls within the dodgy gasket range mentioned a few posts above.
 
Both our EJ253 engine Foresters have slightly weeping head gaskets, oil only to outside of engine. They are MY06 and MY10. Neither engine uses a measurable amount of oil between oil changes - 24 months/12,000 Kms. I use Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 fully synthetic in both engines.
 
I must have fluked a good `un.
MY 03 15 years old from new, 354000 km original motor, head gaskets and engine oil seals.
Many other bits have failed over the years. Some on a, more or less, regular basis such as boots, radiators and clutch thrust bearings.
Otherwise motor runs smoothly and uses a bit of oil between changes but not a lot. I estimate about 500 mls max between my 5000 km change intervals. Although a small leak from rear engine oil seal.
Needs now, I think, a new alternator and a new front passenger inner CV joint. Costs more in repairs and services than it is worth......
 
Yes, it was only leaking on the outside afaik. Oil from the left bank, coolant from the right.
 
Now 4 and a bit months later ... after the engine work and clurch replacement, the car is, well, different. Some bits are better, some not.

The good bits:
the car is easier to launch smoothly ... no more clutch shudder or chatter.
The car seems to have quite a bit more go.

The not so good bits:
The engine has lost some off-idle smoothness ... where it would pull away quite well from 40kph on light throttle, it now has a harsh vibration under those conditions if I'm not careful.
There is much more transmission backlash on the over-run ... quite uncomfortable if not controlled.

However, the overall driving is better, particularly the mid range response. However, its no longer the lovely smooth car that I bought. I dont think there is any point in taking it back to the mechanics, as I dont think they'd be to do much.
 
If it clunks on and off throttle, check the rear diff bushes. Driveline slack/clunking could also be engine &/or trans mounts. Both relatively simple to replace.

All the rubber bushings and mounts will be reaching their end of life.. so its a good place to start looking.


My '99 BH is now on about 300k (except the engine). Replacing all the rear suspension bushes made a big difference, as did the front lower control arm rear ones about 100k ago. Other big improvements were rear diff bushes (I got lazy and shoved some poly inserts in the existing busted ones instead of swapping over), and filling the space in my gearbox mount with polyurethane sealant.

It still drives well, no clunks, rattles or squeaks. Probably due for new struts/shocks at some point (still on originals).

By 200k, my last car (Nissan) was absolutely falling to pieces.
 
It does not clunk - it's more like a reverse kangaroo hop - ie when slowing down, not when starting off.
 
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