Strut lift spacers from Paranoid Fabrications

^ That's good to know, Fuze. Thanks.

My use is unlikely ever to include really heavy off-road use, so these should be fine for me, if and when.
 
Tweaksta, make sure after installation & before w/a, with the cars weight on the wheels (ramps), loosen then tighten the LCA rear bush. This releases the tension on it caused by altering the ride height :poke:

I didnt & mine started leaking, one side within only a few months. Both were completely stuffed within a year!
 
Nice tip - thanks for that!

I might also add that no bolts were supplied with the spacers. The bolts I've been advised to use are m8 1.25 55mm stainless. I'll probably just get them from Bunnings then I'm right to go with the install.

I have to say I'm a bit nervous about something not going smoothly and having the car in pieces in the garage - lol :lol:.
 
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Just got back from Supercheap, got my stands and spring compressors.

Since there is only 90 mins of light left in the day I'll do it tomorrow (Sat). Will keep you posted.
 
Ok, started the job 90 mins ago but I have hit a snag already.....

The base of the struts are attached by means of two strut retaining nuts and bolts. I have managed to get the upper one out, but the lower nut is obstructed by a rubber boot.

I have tried compressing the springs to try and shorten the strut to get it out but still is 3-4cm too tall to get out of the strut well.

How do I remove the lower strut retainer bolt?

Thanks.
 
Do you mean the outer CV boot? Be careful not to nick or pinch the boot. Guessing this is the rear strut.

Try a long ring spanner after soaking the bolt/nut with Penetrene preferably or WD40. You can even use a section of pipe on the spanner for more leverage. Dont use a open spanner or adjustable wrench as these will round the nut & if that happens you're stuffed!

Make sure you use anti-seize on all bolts when reinstalling to make it easy the next time :biggrin:
 
Nice one - thanks for that.

I found an old bit of iron bar lying around and used it for leverage. It sounded like it was going to explode then it came loose.

One side done (in just over 5 hours). I should be able to finish the other side in the morning.
 
The first one you do is always the hardest & takes the longest as you work out how to do it. The next side "should" be a breeze :monkeydance:
 
NachaLuva said:
Make sure you use anti-seize on all bolts when reinstalling to make it easy the next time :biggrin:
Click to expand...

I've never used anti-seize before...is it like Loctite? Or is that the opposite? What would be better?

Oh, I'm also trying to work out which one is the LCA rear bush which I'll need to loosen.
 
It is, more or less, the reverse of loc tite.
Usually a metallic looking paste with lots of tiny metal, possibly copper, looking particles held together with a grease.
Buy at suspension dealers, metal working suppliers etc. Costs about $10 for a small bottle. Lasts for a long time and doesn`t go off.
Never use on nuts like wheel nuts or disaster could result if you lose a wheel while driving.
The idea is to make it easy to undo the nut/bolt next time and it works well.
 
Tweaksta said:
I've never used anti-seize before...is it like Loctite? Or is that the opposite? What would be better?
Click to expand...

Yeah its the opposite. Locktite locks it tight & antiseize stops it from seizing :biggrin:

I do use it on my wheel nuts, just be careful not to overtighten with it.

Oh, I'm also trying to work out which one is the LCA rear bush which I'll need to loosen.
Click to expand...
The LCA is Lower Control Arm, that big curving arm that attaches to the hub at the wheel end with the ball joint. At the other end it attaches to the chassis via 2 bushes. The front bush is ok, the rear bush (at the end of the curved bit) is the one that needs to be reset. It has a large washer & nut on the end of a stud. The bush sits inside the big silver alloy bracket. The front bush has a nut & bolt. It can be hard to get to & is done up VERY tight (190Nm) but if it isn't reset it can start leaking pretty fast...within months.

I think you need a 22mm ring spanner with the bar you used before as leverage. You can loosen both sides with the car up on stands as that will be the hard bit but you need to tighten it with the cars weight on the wheels, ie suspension at resting height. This can be done on ramps. Or just do it all on ramps but position the ramp so the high end is the end your working on. Ie, the ramp end is away from you to give you plenty of space. Remember to use some antiseize on the threads to make it easier next time :iconwink:
 
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NachaLuva said:
Look here, post #72, pics 5 & 6

NachaLuva's Body Lift
Click to expand...

Man that is a good write-up Nach! You know your Fozzies that's for sure. Thanks to you I've finally got it all fitted.

I didn't get around to buying any thread anti-seize (or even loctite)....I just used bicep newton-metres to torque the bolts. The reason being that I"ll need to whack in some camber bolts next week as I am now quite visibly running pos camber. Once the camber bolts are in, I will use anti-seize as per your recommendation.

SWMBO has just kicked me out of the garage after 2 days in there. I still need to de-tension those LCA bushes ASAP. I hope they survive a few days commuting without crapping out - but I don't have a 22mm ring spanner currently (just a ratcheting socket set).......22mm ring spanner has now been ordered!
 
All done!!!:discomonkey:

The wheel has moved a little bit forward so I might look into trailing arm spacers, but the increased clearance is great - about 270mm at the diff and exhaust.

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Many thanks to Nachaluva, ateday, Ratbag and Venom for your assistance and recommendations.
 
Luca should be fine for a little while. I never did mine and that was70,000km ago, my SF might not be the text book case :lol:
 
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