Dual Batteries

Ive been reading into it aswell. I like the idea of the 2 small batteries to replace the one in the engine bay. I think it was Eden's idea.
 
taza said:
Ive been reading into it aswell. I like the idea of the 2 small batteries to replace the one in the engine bay. I think it was Eden's idea.
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If you have room you could locate 2 batteries together in the engine bay, although most AGM batteries apparently don't like heat, so possibly not a good idea.
Otherwise, do as per my thread https://www.traxide.com.au/CWK_FPC.html
The heavy wiring serves both my second battery in the rear luggage area AND the battery in my camper trailer. CT is connected via 4 of the large pins on a flat 12 pin trailer plug. The battery box in the luggage area is connected via Anderson plugs.
 
Barry said:
If you have room you could locate 2 batteries together in the engine bay, although most AGM batteries apparently don't like heat, so possibly not a good idea.
Otherwise, do as per my thread https://www.traxide.com.au/CWK_FPC.html
The heavy wiring serves both my second battery in the rear luggage area AND the battery in my camper trailer. CT is connected via 4 of the large pins on a flat 12 pin trailer plug. The battery box in the luggage area is connected via Anderson plugs.
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Whats an AGM battery? (Annual General ...?)
 
I'm planning on running an iBS monitor and an AUX gelcell ( probably in the spare tire well) once I get the drawer system installed in my Foz. It's a lot easier to run a lead to battery and then ground than trying to find someplace under the hood which will accommodate a second battery.
 
Saguache said:
I'm planning on running an iBS monitor and an AUX gelcell ( probably in the spare tire well) once I get the drawer system installed in my Foz. It's a lot easier to run a lead to battery and then ground than trying to find someplace under the hood which will accommodate a second battery.
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! would recommend running both positive and negative thick cables (6B&S gauge) rather than just a positive and using the car body for the negative circuit.
 
Why is that if say the earth is strapped to the strut tower with a quality earth strap using the whole body as an earth? I NEVER use the battery earth when jump starting and never have a problem.........it can cause a spike & blow your or the other car's computer.
 
d_generate said:
I NEVER use the battery earth when jump starting and never have a problem.........it can cause a spike & blow your or the other car's computer.
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I'm the same d_generate. If I ever jump start a car, I never put the earth on the battery. I use some other earth instead, usually the top of the strut.
I've not had a problem doing it that way with any of the cars I've jump started.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Yeah just wondering why a cable is needed to run to the back instead of earthing the battery or whatever to a good point in the rear saving weight & money as thick cable isn't exactly cheap. I guess it would be easy enough to test with a voltmeter to see if there was a bigger drop??? Guess I don't really know enough about these there lectric things.
 
It is said you get voltage drop - but I have never tried to prove it. So I just run the earth cable as well to be sure.
 
The consensus on the 12 volt threads at Myswag.org is that the second wire isn't 'necessary' in a theoretical sense, but that many electrical problems (and hence. warm beer and smelly meat :-[ ) result from earth problems in the absence of a negative return wire.
IMO a couple of metres of cable is way cheaper than just one instance of warm beer, and off milk & meat in the middle of nowhere.
 
Barry said:
The consensus on the 12 volt threads at Myswag.org is that the second wire isn't 'necessary' in a theoretical sense, but that many electrical problems (and hence. warm beer and smelly meat :-[ ) result from earth problems in the absence of a negative return wire.
IMO a couple of metres of cable is way cheaper than just one instance of warm beer, and off milk & meat in the middle of nowhere.
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Yea good point Barry, while I'm loath to fish a second ground strap from the front of the vehicle to the rear I've had more than one experience with a bad ground and I like-um my beer-um cold-um (there are no indian smilies).
 
Barry said:
but that many electrical problems (and hence. warm beer and smelly meat :-[ ) result from earth problems in the absence of a negative return wire.
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Absolutely! That and/or using cig plugs that vibrate, arc out and melt.
 
offshoresa65s said:
Hi

Similar situation to this thread : https://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=52

However last post in that tread was in December 2009.

Just bought an Engel 32l fridge / freezer.

Any one done any thing different from last post on the above mentioned thread.

Cheers

O

Forester 06
Outback 09
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Hi O!

I have an 06 forester like yours. I run a 40L waeco fridge in my car, and it is hooked up to an 80AH AGM battery. My battery is located in the boot. I have it bolted to a battery plate, which is then bolted through the carpet/plastic floor, and also tethered by steel cable to the tie down point next to the tailgate. My battery squeezes behind the left had wheel well. I have a Matson cables and isolator to the front. Hope this helps.

Regards,

Joel
 
^ yes, I have Matson controllers in both cars. My new Matson (jn the Triton) has a switch on it that allows you to connect both batteries together e.g. so you can jump start yourself. I imagine I might also find it useful for winching.
 
Hi Joel_57.

Thanks to all responses, but Joel_57, I was wondering if you could post any pic's?

Cheers

O
 
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