Forester DIY clutch replacement

LoopSoosStroop

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Joined
Sep 8, 2010
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49
Location
Joburg, South Africa
Hi Guys

I'm going to need all the help I can get.

My clutch release bearing went last night in a cloud of smoke.

I'm going to start downloading the OEM manual today and will look at doing the job myself.

Has anybody here done a clutch replacement DIY? Do you have to drop the gearbox and the bell mounting? Does the engine stay in place? So many questions.
 
Engine stays in situ, but you will want to stick some timber or similar under the front of it to make it easier to re-install the box . Step one is drain the gearbox oil. Depending on model you will need just a nomral spanner/socket or a T70 tork socket- male. Whhile that is draining, remove the tailshaft- there are few bolts you have to undo to access where it bolts to the rear diff. Remove air filter box/TMIC. If turbo begin removing heat shield from turbo, remove O2 sensor- some cars come with more than one sensor- remove it as well. Disconnect battery. Remove dump pipe if turbo. Remove starter motor. Disconnect wiring to gearbox, speedo cable if equipped. Remove slave cylinder. If turbo, there is a hex bolt which requires a 10mm hex key or socket to undo- remove. You cam use a guard bolt or similar to screw that into what is the pivot for the clutch fork. Screw it in a few turns then using pliers,screwdriver or similar and pull the pivot out by the head of the bolt. Ignore that if non turbo. Remove all belhousing bolts. Loosen cotter pin on each front wheel hub and remove hub from ball joint. Depending on model there is a split pin securing the front driveshaft to the output shafts of the front diff. With 6mm pin punch remove the pins and then remove the axles. Hopefully not too much oil will spill out as the gearbox should now be drained. So put the bolt back in you removed to drain. Later, depending on model you may need a washer for the bolt- not used if you used the tork socket.

On the inside of the car, remove the trim around the gearshift and remove the gear knob and boot. You will find half a dozen screws or so holding the rubber grommet-remove. With the normal gearstick there are two bolts/nuts you have to remove to remove that shifter. If you have dual range you will need to undo it at the lever end and at the front of the gearbox as well. Remove the crossmembers under the gearbox. Have a good look around, there should not be anything else left to undo- if there is, remove it. If I have left something out someone will probably pick it up. Make sure there is a jack under the gearbox and secure the jack to the gearbox using chains ( I used a hoist and gearbox jack). You will need to lever the box backwards, and you really should have someone helping you.

With the gearbox out, I use a small 12v rattle gun to remove the clutch from the flywheel. Careful, it is heavy. I then use a big 18v rattle gun to remove the flywheel bolts. Be careful, it is even heavier. If it is a dual mass flywheel replace it with a standard flywheel. If standard flywheel, machine it and re-install. Do not use rattle guns for tightening the clutch bolts. A clutch aligning tool will make life much easier- I used an old gearbox input shaft but you can buy the specialised tool. Line up the clutch, then tighten up to spec. Line up the gearbox so that the angle of the box is the same as the angle of the engine front to back and side to side. This is the hard bit and strength and patience are needed, So is help, although I have installed a 6 speed without any, and did it first go. That is rare and make sure you have bought plenty of swear words in case you run out.

You need a certain amount of force but not too much. i have seen people force it too much only to find out that damaged something and had to get a new clutch. I find that installing the tailshaft in, with the car in gear that by rotating the tailshaft helps the splines mesh. Juggling the gearbox up and down and side to side does help but is very tiring. Once correctly in it is all just a matter of putting it all back together. Remember to put fresh oil in the gearbox- but make sure the plug at the bottom is in tight, and with new washer if required.

I have probably left something out, and when someone points it out I will probably feel like a goose, but it is up to you to take all the necessary safety precautions. This is what I did, but then I am not qualified as a mechanic so the responsibility is all yours, not mine. If you disagree with that, don't follow anything I have listed. Good luck and let us know how it goes
 
I'm hoping one of the others will proof read it for me and find any errors or omissions.
 
Loosen cotter pin on each front wheel hub and remove hub from ball joint. Depending on model there is a split pin securing the front driveshaft to the output shafts of the front diff. With 6mm pin punch remove the pins and then remove the axles. Hopefully not too much oil will spill out as the gearbox should now be drained.

The removal of the drive shafts is the bit I don't quite understand. What ball joint is the hub removed from? Does that allow the hub with the axle still attached to it swing out of the way?
 
The removal of the drive shafts is the bit I don't quite understand. What ball joint is the hub removed from? Does that allow the hub with the axle still attached to it swing out of the way?

knock out the drive shaft retaining pin on the output shaft, then remove the ball joint retaining bolt on the hub/strut combination at the bottom below the wheel bearing, the ball joint should be able to be swung down with the control arm, then the hub/strut/driveshaft assembly can be swung outward to remove the drive shaft from the output shaft.

Assembly is the reverse of the above, but you have to line up the retaining pin holes ;)

Cheers

Bennie
 
As Bennie says. There is only one suspension ball joint per side on the front suspension- it is mounted on the very outer end of the lower control arm. There is a bolt with from memory a 12mm bolt head and nut which clamps the ball joint. If still not clear maybe a photo would help?

knock out the drive shaft retaining pin on the output shaft, then remove the ball joint retaining bolt on the hub/strut combination at the bottom below the wheel bearing, the ball joint should be able to be swung down with the control arm, then the hub/strut/driveshaft assembly can be swung outward to remove the drive shaft from the output shaft.

Assembly is the reverse of the above, but you have to line up the retaining pin holes ;)

Cheers

Bennie
 
Thanks guys!

Gearbox is almost out, just need to take out the driveshafts and disconnect the gear shift lever and DR cable.

The workshop manual I've got makes a big fuss about the driveshaft retaining oil seals on the side of the gearbox, saying its a bad idea not to replace them and that they damage easily when the shafts are re-installed.

Is this necessary or should I just be careful?
 
Depends I guess. When I put the 6 speed in the Impreza, I replaced them. When I changed the clutch in the Forrie, I did not.
 
Thanks guys!

Gearbox is almost out, just need to take out the driveshafts and disconnect the gear shift lever and DR cable.

The workshop manual I've got makes a big fuss about the driveshaft retaining oil seals on the side of the gearbox, saying its a bad idea not to replace them and that they damage easily when the shafts are re-installed.

Is this necessary or should I just be careful?


The seals are around eighteen dollars each , I would prefer to replace them while you have eveything out

my 2cents worth
 
True enough, But replacing them with the box in is not that much harder either. Peace of mind? change them
 
I was in the same mind when I replaced my gearbox. I decided to change the rear main seal at the same time. With everything out, it was easy access & made sense, dollar wise to do it at the same time.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
I do it for everything I work on
i.e. Ive never replaced a cam belt without doing cam and crank seals and I always recommend others to do the same (personal choice) for the extra money($30 odd) it can save alot of heartache down the track

its just preventative maintenance (IMHO)
 
Ok guys, run into a problem.

Everything is disconnected, but the gearbox is not coming off. I've managed to move it about 5 mm backwards, but its not going further. Problem is if I try to wiggle it the engine just wiggles with it.

I'm goin to try and brace the engine somehow so that when I wiggle I can loosen the gearbox and slide it off the clutch. Anyone had this problem?
 
Make sure you have the angles right so that it is coming out evenly, and be prepared to use a moderate amount of force if nothing is catching, not undone, etc. A prybar comes to mind.
 
My 2 litre forester had a similar problem. Gearbox had not been off for a long time I think and was really stuck. In the end I got a bit of wood and a big hammer and beat it hard until it was clear of the dowels.

May seem a bit extreme, but had spent ages pulling and pushing with no luck. Good luck!!
 
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