MY10 XT Forester Question

tuckerman

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Perth/Southwest W.A.
Couple of Elements to this question.

I have the aforementioned car in auto. I believe this setup is not 50/50 AWD all the time and it is adjusted as needed by the ECU/Auto trans. I thought I also read somewhere that if the auto is put into the sports mode/manualised that in gears 1 and 2 it is locked in at 50/50 ?

Also does this mean that the car still has an issue if one wheel leaves the ground ? e.g. are the front and rear diffs still open ?

Thanks
 
Assuming the drivetrain is the same as my MY06 Auto, It's a 90/10 F/R split under normal driving, however when in 1st or 2nd gear, under full throttle the drive is split 50/50. As far as lifting wheels, the front diff is open, while the rear diff is viscous type LSD... It isn't overly effective though.

Regards,

Joel
 
Ok interesting! I didn't realise it had to be under full throttle to be full 50/50 in 1 and 2, interesting that these cars seem to do pretty well on sand considering they are only a 90/10 split!
 
Ok so as the next offroad sort of mod what do you think I should go with ?

Currently the car is pretty stock, has awning, Subaextreme bashplate and underbonnet compressor. has done 40thou and prolly will get some AT tyres in the next 10thou. Looking at going one size large depending on what will fit e.g. 17" 65, 215's which will hopefully give a tad more clearance and grip.

Any effective driveline mods available without making it a worse road car ?
 
In the latest gen Auto Subaru's its 60/40 split torque until slip when it becomes 50/50. Before 2008 (I think the date was) it was 90/10 split in Autos. Where as the manual is 50/50 all the time with the benefit of the Low range gear box in the N/A's.
 
There is a mod that can be done to the auto's (not sure if it works on MY10's) that tricks the car so that you can have it in 50/50 F/R split at the switch of a button.
There might even be a write up on how to do it on here somewhere I think.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
yeh Taz that looks to be the consensus of what I read on a few other forums after replying to this topic. Looks like post 2008 they are 60/40.

I am interested thou in regards to the traction control and if they helps or hinders things. In sand it seems to hinder things as in because u crab walk a lot on the sand tracks it constantly makes a horrid noise and seems to try and pull the car back but I have used the car climbing out of a slightly sandy/rocky trail downsouth and i think the traction control may have helped as it tried to crawl up over the uneven rocky surface.
 
mr turbo said:
There is a mod that can be done to the auto's (not sure if it works on MY10's) that tricks the car so that you can have it in 50/50 F/R split at the switch of a button.
There might even be a write up on how to do it on here somewhere I think.

Regards
Mr Turbo
Click to expand...

That could be useful! although if the car is as suggested already split at 60/40 not sure how much advantage this would hold. Got a link to that mod mate ?
 
tuckerman said:
Ok interesting! I didn't realise it had to be under full throttle to be full 50/50 in 1 and 2, interesting that these cars seem to do pretty well on sand considering they are only a 90/10 split!
Click to expand...

There are a few points to consider on this, as unfortunately the nature of the drivetrains means torque split figures are not always straightforward:

  • The manual uses a conventional geared centre diff and therefore has exactly 50:50 torque distribution under most conditions. (If there is variation in the rotation speeds between front and rear then the viscous LSD comes into play and torque split favours the slower spinning end.
  • The auto uses a fixed coupling to the front and a variable coupling to the rear via an electronically controlled clutch. The nature of this means that torque split figures are, at best, nominal as the computer cannot control torque split directly, only the degree of lockup to the rear wheels. The 90:10 or 60:40 or whatever, just suggests that most of the time the rear coupling is significantly 'loose' so the front wheels do most of the work, but these figures are very very far from being precise.
  • In terms of the auto doing well in sand despite front drive bias, I believe that under hard acceleration (such as that needed in soft sand) the coupling to the rear will lockup significantly so as to prevent the front wheels spinning. It is therefore somewhat 'proactive' in that it locks up when wheelspin is anticipated (ie under hard acceleration) rather than simply being 'reactive' and waiting for the spin to happen.
 
mr turbo said:
There is a mod that can be done to the auto's (not sure if it works on MY10's) that tricks the car so that you can have it in 50/50 F/R split at the switch of a button.
There might even be a write up on how to do it on here somewhere I think.

Regards
Mr Turbo
Click to expand...


I looked into this mod a while back but never did it because the wires are different colors now, and because I never really needed it. I just turn "off" the traction control, and floor it(as required).The SH can conquer most obstacles within reason, as I keep proving to my hardcore Jeep buddy. Yours should do even better than mine seeing as how you bought the turbo. I have purchased larger tires too, but only for the 16" wheel. 225/70 R16 Cooper Discoverer lsx

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAMwCuxrAu8"]YouTube - ‪Wheeling my fozzie‬‏[/ame]
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OaBT83glG20"]YouTube - ‪Shortcut.AVI‬‏[/ame]
 
tuckerman said:
yeh Taz that looks to be the consensus of what I read on a few other forums after replying to this topic. Looks like post 2008 they are 60/40.

I am interested thou in regards to the traction control and if they helps or hinders things. In sand it seems to hinder things as in because u crab walk a lot on the sand tracks it constantly makes a horrid noise and seems to try and pull the car back but I have used the car climbing out of a slightly sandy/rocky trail downsouth and i think the traction control may have helped as it tried to crawl up over the uneven rocky surface.
Click to expand...

In sand or deep snow, the traction control should be turned off. That's what that button by your left knee (LHD) is for. Starting in 2009, the Foresters came with symmetrical AWD. As long as all wheels have good traction, they all get the same amount of drive. Only when there is a loss of traction does that change.
 
This raises an interesting question for me....

What sort of centre diff do I have in the H6?

It is currently a manual, but started its life as an auto. So, when the transmission was changed over, I am assuming that the centre diff remained the same.

While I am at it, I am unsure what the rear diff is.

Time for some investigation....
 
Djulpan said:
This raises an interesting question for me....

What sort of centre diff do I have in the H6?

It is currently a manual, but started its life as an auto. So, when the transmission was changed over, I am assuming that the centre diff remained the same.

While I am at it, I am unsure what the rear diff is.

Time for some investigation....
Click to expand...

Im pretty sure I asked SKT awhile ago or read somewhere posted by him that it has stock open front and rear (R160) diffs. Im guessing since its now a manual the centre diff would of been changed over to a standard 4kg Viscous LSD found in most Foresters. But the centre diff could of been upgraded, maybe 12kg or 15kg. I would be interested in know that about the H6 too...

Also are you running no sway bars or sway bars attached or quick disconnects?

Im guessing from this old thread that the swaybars are attached.

https://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=541


Taza
 
Last edited:
taza said:
Im pretty sure I asked SKT awhile ago or read somewhere posted by him that it has stock open front and rear (R160) diffs. Im guessing since its now a manual the centre diff would of been changed over to a standard 4kg Viscous LSD found in most Foresters. But the centre diff could of been upgraded, maybe 12kg or 15kg. I would be interested in know that about the H6 too...

Also are you running no sway bars or sway bars attached or quick disconnects?

Im guessing from this old thread that the swaybars are attached.

https://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=541


Taza
Click to expand...

Thanks. Will have to confirm the diff info, but you are probably right.

Swaybar at front is still there, but will soon have a quick release setup thanks to your work in the other thread.

The rear one is not there at all. there is bugger all body roll becuase of the stiffness of the springs. If I am to put a swaybar in (e.g. whiteline), it will be with the sort of quick release you have done, and I will put some spacer blocks in where it fits to the body, the same thickness as the body lift blocks if that makes sense.

If the diffs are open, would be interested in replacing them longer term. Am watching your R 160 locker project with great interest.
 
^Thanks for that, means alot.
The locker project is going to be successful in some way. Im determined to get something out of it. That H6 Foz with lockers would be unstoppable :lildevil:

Taza
 
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