Dulagarl: the Lifted H6 Forester

mr turbo · Feb 24, 2011

Djulpan said:
This is a huge breakthrough for me, because usually I am **** at this sort of thing,. but the ECU laptop interface makes this easy. The idea of having on borad diagnostics at all times is fantastic.

Isn't technology wonderful. :ebiggrin:
Well done mate. :raz:

Regards
Mr Turbo

oneillium · Feb 24, 2011

What program/interface do you use to connect to your ECU?

Barry · Feb 24, 2011

New thread needed.

We could do with a thread on these systems, how to connect up, read them, etc.
Also, how to program to change engine operation, etc.

Rally · Feb 24, 2011

While I know a bit about pullings engines apart and working on cars in general, I tend to steer clear of any involved re-mapping of ECU software. There are any number of so called experts who cannot get it right. I've had a look at my Impreza's ecu because it runs a Haltech and you can change everything on that ecu, and do data logging and so on. I have played around with the launch control and even doing that may or may not have affected normal engine operations. Unless you really know what you are doing, or have someone with you who does, I'd leave it to the people who know what they are doing. Not that there are many of them.

Dulagarl · Feb 24, 2011

oneillium said:
What program/interface do you use to connect to your ECU?

The H6 has a VIPEC V 88 ECU, so I'm using the proprietary software from the VIPEC site.

https://www.vi-pec.com/page_files/V88.html

Barry said:
We could do with a thread on these systems, how to connect up, read them, etc.
Also, how to program to change engine operation, etc.

I know nothing about this, other than what I have learned in relation to the V88 ECU

Rally said:
While I know a bit about pullings engines apart and working on cars in general, I tend to steer clear of any involved re-mapping of ECU software. There are any number of so called experts who cannot get it right. I've had a look at my Impreza's ecu because it runs a Haltech and you can change everything on that ecu, and do data logging and so on. I have played around with the launch control and even doing that may or may not have affected normal engine operations. Unless you really know what you are doing, or have someone with you who does, I'd leave it to the people who know what they are doing. Not that there are many of them.

Not re-mapping ECU software at all, just using it. I was following clear instructions about one parameter. Nice to have it and to slowly learn and understand it though.

Dulagarl · Mar 7, 2011

Did some minor modifications to the bashplate last week, to improve airflow through the engine bay. Cut some vent flaps (like on Venom's bashplate) towards the front to allow spent air from the radiator to be drawn out under the front of the motor. (I say flpas becuase I cut three sides of a rectangle, with the rear most side still attached. I then pushed the cut part up into the engine bay, so that air from the radiator is caught and drawn down and out.

Also straightened up the bashplate and replaced the nuts it screws into, and replaced the bolts with high tensile bolts. Now have about a CM clearance around the headers, which will keep things a bit cooler as well. Will probably cut some vent flaps near the headers at some point.

In the process, used some stuff called 'Lanotec". It's a lanolin spray, obviously made from wool fat. Completely bio-degradable. A good alternative to WD 40 etc. for underbody and wheeel nuts and the like. Wouldn't use it for wet motors though.

Yesterday was headlight protection. Got some of that headlight film made by 'Altrex". It's available at Supercheap auto. needed to put some on for protection and also becuase the headlights had a couple of very fine cracks which allowed a small amount of water in. Surprisingly, the protection film works very well if you follow the instructions, and produces a good result. The headlights look new.

Tomorrow, the cargo barrier goes in. had to settle for an expensive Milford which I am buying new. It is really not worth getting a second hand one because the cost of the mounting kit plus fitting is $300, and with the cost of a second hand barrier ($100 to $150?), refinishing the barrier to eliminate and protect against rust (up to $200 depending on who you ask), the new barrier at around $650 fitted is better value in my opinion.

Unfortunatley, the cheaper autosafe version for roof rack place in yarraville is not an option. Not currently available for MY00 Forester becuase they are re-designing the mounts (it used to use the child safety seat mounts which is apparently a no no).

This time in two weeks I am heading across the Nullarbor, so all preparations are going well. next job to organise is to develop a second engine map for economy. Friend of a friend is a subie mechanic who has offered to help on that front. Might even be able to fit cruise control without too much hassle.

MadScotsMan · Mar 7, 2011

Nice rig, for sure and, I must say, Australia has some gorgeous real estate! Thanks for the pics!

El_Freddo · Mar 7, 2011

Double Jealous now Djulpan!

Awesome H6 foz that you're doing all the right stuff with AND a crossing of the Nullabour! I'd love to do that again... I'm hoping I can talk the wife into it for later this year in Ruby Scoo - will have to wait and see how that goes.

Love the subi - keep up the good work and keep us posted!

Cheers

Bennie

dellsfozz · Mar 12, 2011

Djulpan said:
Did some minor modifications to the bashplate last week, to improve airflow through the engine bay. Cut some vent flaps (like on Venom's bashplate) towards the front to allow spent air from the radiator to be drawn out under the front of the motor. (I say flpas becuase I cut three sides of a rectangle, with the rear most side still attached. I then pushed the cut part up into the engine bay, so that air from the radiator is caught and drawn down and out.

It's nice too see this H6 Foz went to a good home, mate! I saw this one for sale on ebay and telling my mates and relies that they should buy it, but you too quick for them.:lol:
Djulpan, I can feel the overheating problems you have coz I also had that before. It started when I fitted the Subaextreme bullbar, some vans and 4wd's also had this problem when they fitted with bullbar, it's combination of not enough air going into the radiator because the flat surface of bullbar(kind of deflecting away air to go in) so I fix that by drilling 16mm holes on the bullbar and also cut that center skirt or that bit of panel that come down where you cut holes, I replace that with another panel that scoops air from bottom of bullbar and deflects it in the bottom of radiator. I also moved and remount the driving light away from the front of radiator. Next thing I did is to help the underbonnet hot air to get out by cutting my hole on the bonnet and fitted a louvre grill similar idea to the bonnet vents they have have in the WRX, i did not cut any structural frame of the bonnet. I have had some enquiries on this mods from SKT before. Check-out my thread and maybe that will explain better with the pics.
The other suggestion I can recommend is install an engine oil cooler and change the radiator with an alloy 3 core Golpher radiator. I have used my xt Forester in heavy duty towing over 4ton loaded trailer(I know that it's not legal,lucky not get book), and no dramas that's towing not slow in long distance...1800kms. from Albury,NSW to Bundaberg,Qld.

Dulagarl · Mar 12, 2011

^ Thanks for th info. I studied the thread on your machine closely while thinking about this one.

What bonnet vents did you use, and where did you get em? I have seen the pics of them.

I'm inclined to put some in a bit further back though, to get rid of some of the engine heat. I reckon airflow through the radiator is pretty good now.

Not inclined to change the radiator though: the car has a H6 radiator in it, and it's in good nick. Spoke to Al who did the engine transplant, and he reckons I should keep the radiator becuase the heat is not a radiator issue. Might look at an engine oil cooler at some later stage.

(thinks: "could I use the AT fluid cooler at the bottom of the radiator? Probably not.")

Cluster Fock · Mar 12, 2011

Crossing the Nullabor eh?
Coming to Perth?

dellsfozz · Mar 12, 2011

Djulpan said:
What bonnet vents did you use, and where did you get em? I have seen the pics of them.

(thinks: "could I use the AT fluid cooler at the bottom of the radiator? Probably not.")

I used an after market universal vents bought from Autobarn or Supercheap by memory, they come up with different styles and sizes...any auto accessories shop would have them.
For engine oil cooler, don't use the one on bottom of radiator, it's best to use a separate or dedicated engine oil cooler which will be mounted to get fresh air. You can buy a sandwich adaptor plate with built in thermostat to be fitted between the filter.

Here is the link;https://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350444232190&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I would suggest to do this mod before crossing the Nullabor.:iconwink:
Cheers,
Dell

Dulagarl · Mar 12, 2011

Cluster Fock said:
Crossing the Nullabor eh?
Coming to Perth?

Don't think so at this stage. Might get as far west as Dryandra though.

dellsfozz said:
I used an after market universal vents bought from Autobarn or Supercheap by memory, they come up with different styles and sizes...any auto accessories shop would have them.
For engine oil cooler, don't use the one on bottom of radiator, it's best to use a separate or dedicated engine oil cooler which will be mounted to get fresh air. You can buy a sandwich adaptor plate with built in thermostat to be fitted between the filter.

Here is the link;https://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350444232190&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I would suggest to do this mod before crossing the Nullabor.:iconwink:
Cheers,
Dell

Vents: haven't seen em at Supercheap auto, but will try Autobarn tomorrow.
Have looked at Cosworth Vents, but they seem a bit large. (approx 30 cm x 20 cm)

There are a few sorts on this page:

https://ssv.com.au/bonnet_vents

Oil cooler: not sure where I'd put the cooler itself. Not a lot of room up front.

MadScotsMan · Mar 13, 2011

That was amazing footage! Thanks for sharing. That H6 Forester is awesome.

Rally · Mar 13, 2011

If you get a bonnet off a GT, you could mount the oil cooler underneath it on top of the engine where the intercooler goes on the turbo models and use the fresh air coming in from the scoop to cool the oil.

Dulagarl · Mar 26, 2011

The vehicle is currently in the dunes of the Coorong with two bent struts which means the tyres are rubbing on the spring seats. I'm in Kingston, and will go to get the vehicle tomorrow. Worked on it for a couple of hours, but decided that I should hoof it for help, so walkked about 4 k cross country to the highway, then hitched the 60 ks to town.

Hoping Scott has the part numbers so I can get started on getting parts here to fix it.

mr turbo · Mar 26, 2011

Sorry to hear about the bent struts Djulpan.
Glad that you made it back safely.

Regards
Mr Turbo

my04tone · Mar 26, 2011

Djulpan said:
The vehicle is currently in the dunes of the Coorong with two bent struts which means the tyres are rubbing on the spring seats. I'm in Kingston, and will go to get the vehicle tomorrow. Worked on it for a couple of hours, but decided that I should hoof it for help, so walkked about 4 k cross country to the highway, then hitched the 60 ks to town.

Hoping Scott has the part numbers so I can get started on getting parts here to fix it.

Ouch!!

sorry to hear about your problems Greg.

Am crossing the Coorong myself next year..

carljwnc · Mar 26, 2011

Sorry to hear Greg. Glad your safe and hope you can get everything sorted out quickly and back on the road.

Did anything happen to cause this???

Dulagarl · Mar 26, 2011

^ thanks folks. Yeah I'm ok, just a bit of a pita really.

carljwnc said:
Sorry to hear Greg. Glad your safe and hope you can get everything sorted out quickly and back on the road.

Did anything happen to cause this???

Carl: rough uneven track in sand up a dune. There was a section of about 10 - 15 metres with deep ruts and deeper potholes either side. Had tyres deflated, car kept getting stuck in one spot. Gave it plenty the last time, but the rear end bounced hard about 4 times in a row and I figure that's what did it. The car is pretty heavily loaded with gear and water as well, so a range of factors I'd say.

Annoying really becuase it was the only difficult section of that track, and after that it was smooth. Also annoying because I was being conservative by doubling back rather than driving alone up the beach from south to north.

Anyway, that sort of **** just happens sometimes. Other than that the vehicle is bloody excellent. Really handles touring and offroading well.

Dulagarl: the Lifted H6 Forester

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