Whining & something binding - I think!

I suspect it's higher than normal & may be running rich (based on smell and very black & sooty around tail pipe) - but it's sometimes hard to tell with oversize / AT tyres.
 
OK - I reset the ECU - I think it is running better but could be placebo effect. Over the break I intend to remove the rocker covers and replace all the gaskets and will check the valve clearance while I'm in there. I'll also check timing etc.

I am still suspicious of the cat / exhaust system as well per Nipper's advice and given that it's 7.5 years old and somewhat bashed about here and there it certainly would not hurt to replace it.

I gotta say that the 20-50 oil has certainly quietened the engine down a lot. Because we're in summer I'm sure it will be OK but may drop back to 10-40 in winter.
 
I think we had the same problems,is the noise something like mine?

https://www.offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=925

I have change some discs inside my transmission and it's solved. I have to ask Mi_Ka how you call them because I only know how they look and not the name!

EDIT: I asked him and he said to me tha t it was either "low & reverse brake" either "low clutch" because the man that fixed it didn't know how you call them he opened it and saw that this discs were not in perfect condition! He said that they were 7 of them!
 
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^ yes, thanks - that makes sense. I did a "stall test" and it is OK. As someone suggested, it may just be exhaust shielding making a noise.

Over the holidays I reset valve timing and checked ignition timing (OK). I've borrowed a compression test guage and will test on the weekend as it is still using too much engine oil.
 
Compression is good (psi)-

1 180; 2 175; 3 175; 4 180.

Interestingly when I removed the plugs for the test, #4 was mat black around the inner insulator, tip and electrode whereas all the others were white around the insulator and grey elsewhere. I believe this is poor / incomplete detonation so I cleaned it up and swapped in a new igniton pack that I have - we'll see how it goes.

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https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2074
 
if you can upload a video or something to hear the noise it will be helpfull, I m not that good as you at all this theories but I want to learn!!!:ebiggrin:
 
^very hard to hear.

Does anyone know what the symptoms would be if the timing belt was out by one notch?
 
If the timing belt was out by one notch then it wouldn't sound very different at idle but it wouldn't aceelerate very well. It would ping quite a lot but I'm talking about my old EA82 that doesn't have any knock sensor like yours does so I'd guess the CPU would be very busy processing all that and adjusting spark as much as poss.

You might find, like my EA82, that there are inspection plugs in the cam covers so that you don't need to take all the pulleys off to take the covers off. Pull them out and shine a torch up there, you should see the mark on the cover line up with the notch on the cam wheels. From memory the left bank marker is on the bottom side of the cover (under the engine) and the right bank marker is on the top of the cover (on top of the engine).
 
tbelt 1 tooth out you'd know about it, it is possible tho that your hydraulic tensioner is slaco, loose and therefore as your rpm changes they timing cang\ shift a little, dont think this would be the prob tho. also if if you pop it in neutral i'd say its drive related, popping it into n takes all load off the drive train, hence then noise stopping.
 
In relation to cylinder 4 I think it may be the injector. Poor detonation, power loss, possibly running rich (not enough fuel in #4 and the senors detect a lean condition and richen up the mixture to all 4 cylinders). Everything checks out OK.
 
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