Be warned - I am not an Auto Electrician or have much 12 volt wiring experience for that matter. This is just for a general reference. So if you are trying to do a similar thing be very careful. What worked for me may be different for you and may not be correct for vehicles other than my own. Also components, wire sizes etc may differ so ensure you understand how they work and their limitations. If unsure get a qualified person to do this for you.
I ended up running the blue wire to the opposite side of the engine bay through the Driver side guard ( Oz - left hand drive so steering wheel on the right), around the firewall and through the 20mm grommet near the door hing to the under Dash fuse box. I installed the fuse tap into No 23 fuse(on my fuse box diagram) which was empty and placed a 15amp fuse in the top of the Dual fuse Tap (as my blue wire size was rated at 10 Amps)leaving the bottom fuse empty. I tested voltage on the Fuse Tap wire with the red probe of the multi-meter while the black probe was pushed against a chassis bolt. The Fuse Tap wire showed no power when UN-fused and live when the Top 15 Amp fuse was installed and ignition turned on. Next I checked the other end of the blue wire connected to the 3 post Anderson plug at the back of the vehicle where the charger is located and it showed around 12.27 volts with the ignition on and 0 volts with the engine off, so all good.
I did not put a fuse into the bottom fuse holder of the Tap as there was none in the fuse box socket to start with. Also good to mention is that one side of the fuse box slot for the tap is live while the other is not. If you put the Fuse Tap in the wrong way your fuse will be by-passed which will still supply power to the wire however it will not be fused so could cause a lot of damage to the vehicle or even a fire so I had to make sure the live fuse box slot connected to the front side fuse Tap blade and the non live slot was located closest to the wire side of the fuse tap. Hence it looks upside down in the photo.
