EJ22 Swap into SF Foz Part 1

NachaLuva

NachaLuva

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OK, so Ive found a low km EJ22 to swap into my SF Forester. Now comes finding various bits I need to make the swap go smoothly & successfully :biggrin:

It already has a new timing belt (apparently) but I want to do the water pump as well. Also valve cover gaskets & plug seals, rear main seal & clutch kit. With advice from Taza, I got a EJ251 intake manifold, which breathes better & will give good HP gains over the stock restrictive intake.

I just need to know if there's anything else I shoud do & do I get a clutch kit to suit the engine or the gearbox? Has SF Foz box atm but will have a SG offroad box when I get all the parts together.

According to https://www.exedy.com.au/clutch-finder:
SF Foz: FJK-7115: 225mm diameter; spline OD 25.2/ 24 teeth; flywheel flat
BF6 Lib: FJK-6926 : 225mm diameter; spline OD 25.2/ 24 teeth; flywheel flat
SG Foz: FJK-7374 (SMF conversion): 225mm diameter; spline OD 25.2/ 24 teeth; flywheel flat

There's a heap of different clutch kits for the SG...very confusing lol

Parts I have or need:

  • EJ22 ph I 121k kms '92 Lib - done
  • Timing belt kit incl water pump - Gates
  • thermostat and gasket - genuine
  • valve cover gaskets/bolt seals - genuine
  • rear main seal - genuine
  • clutch kit (SF Foz: Exedy FJK-7115)
  • spigot bearing (6201LLU)
  • clutch fork and spring - genuine
  • Thrust bearing springs - genuine
  • Iridium plugs & leads
  • drive belts
  • O2 sensor (maybe, might leave till later)
  • Swap cam sensor
  • Swap crank sprocket
  • EJ22 extractors (can do later)
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure why you've decided to go for a EJ22 over a EJ25x, but as far as injectors go, they'll need to match your ECU (and MAF) unless you're planning on a retune.
 
duncanm said:
I'm not sure why you've decided to go for a EJ22 over a EJ25x, but as far as injectors go, they'll need to match your ECU (and MAF) unless you're planning on a retune.
Click to expand...


Oh - and the clutch will need to match flywheel and box. Did any foresters come with the pull clutch, or was that only a liberty thing?

Go with the SMF clutch and source a flywheel from the wreckers if you need to.
 
Since I've been thinking of doing this for a while, I'll be watching very closely!
 
It will be terrific once you get it in and set up, NL :biggrin:.

IMNSHO, the SF should have had the 2.2L from the beginning. A far more suitable donk given the size and weight of our cars.

It should be more economical around town than the EJ-25 as well. Time will tell :iconwink:.
 
Thanks guys. I agree RB, or the EJ25 & the H6 should definitely have been part of the range.

DuncanM, I'm going the EJ22 as its an easy and legal swap. Its within 10% increase over the EJ20 so doesnt need to be engineered. It can also work fine with the stock EJ20 ECU. A EJ25 swap would need either a piggyback ECU or an aftermarket one.

idw, I'll do a DIY on it after I'm finished :biggrin:

List has been updated...
 
If you fit the EJ251 intake manifold, you'll have the EJ251 injectors on it…

Flywheel, better keep the SF one for better torque as its heavier.

There's another seal you should change, its a square plate with few screws on the back of the engine, hidden behind the flywheel, sometimes are made out of plastic but now Subaru replaces them with metal ones.

You might want to do the roller rocker cam swap as well...
 
My Forster is getting Dyno ran next weekend which will be interesting!
While it had adquate powet (not enough) it certainly isnt economical. ~12l per 100km average in the city (90% of my driving). Normally 450km to a tank with 5 l left in the tank. Highway 9-10l per 100km.
The big tyres, extra 80mm lift kit and added weight wouldnt help any of that.
I imagine you'll see similar fuel economy to what you get now.
See my post on AuSubaru for the details and my recommendations.
 
The crank pulley is designed for the ECU you're running…EJ20 crank pulley = EJ20 ECU
 
jf1sf5, yeah, we know what you meant :biggrin:

Can you be more specific with the square seal you mentioned, not sure if I know that one...

Taza, I would only consider touching inside the heads if there was a real advantage in low down torque, I'll have to look into Delta Cams but I'm not sure I want to do that
 
There's a plate on the rear right of the engine behind the flywheel. If its the old plastic one, it may have some cracks and let some oil steam come out so better change it for the metal one.

Hope my explanation is more accurate !
 
Heads can stay on to fit the cams. God if your real . keen it can be done with the motor in.
Just rocker cover off, release the walve springs and unbolt the cams.
A little involved and means the valve lash needs adjusting. Timing belt must come off.
The 1000 grind gives heaps more torque between idle and 3500rpm. Right where we want it.
You have to order them from the US however.
 
yea oil separator cover no. 11831AA210
 
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