Ben's UHF fitting

[Ben Up North]

UHF time!

(Poor SVX, she needs a wash. Dang zombie apocalypse)

This bit:

Is going in here:

And this wiggly bit at the front (On the left, your right)

Is getting connected to the other bit inside by these bits:

My question is, what's the bset way to connect these two bits together without the aid of tools.

Or do I bite the bullet and get a tool to do the stripping?
Once the cable is cut, how do I make a decent connection between the middle cable and the connector?
The supplied coax connector is a screw in one, but the centre prongtube thingy is heaps bigger than the cable that's going in it. Do I fill it up with solder?
HALP!

 

[Ratbag]

Ben, I moved your post to its own thread.

Did the coax cable come with the kit?

If so, I would solder it after very lightly crimping it . Leave room for the solder to penetrate, but not so loose as to allow fracturing of either part.

More detailed photos of the two parts might help.

 

[Kevin]

@Ben Up North I have one of those CBs in the Triton and it has worked well. You may find that the speaker get muffled a bit if you put it in that slot. I initially installed with the speaker facing down to avoid dust, but had to flip it back over for speaker clarity.
Here's a current pic of the 3100 in position; as you can see the branding sticker is upside-down after I flipped the unit over.

 

[Ben Up North]

Ben, I moved your post to its own thread.

Thanks for that.

]
Did the coax cable come with the kit?

Sure did, cables (power as well) antenna and the connector.
I'm not keen on crimping as the connector is a very snug fit and deforming the prongtube bit will make it impossible to get in.
more pictures
Prongtube end:

The fact that it has a cutaway makes me think that soldering it is probably intended.

Cable end:

From what I've been reading, the screw in type of fittings are a bit average.
I'm guessing the metal sheath is meant to to be screwed in. But I'm no sparky, and the last time I messed with coax was when we built a 10BASE-T network in a housing co-op I was living in back in the '90s.

 

[Kevin]

soldering it is probably intended

Yes indeed! I soldered mine

 

[Ben Up North]

You may find that the speaker get muffled a bit if you put it in that slot. I initially installed with the speaker facing down to avoid dust, but had to flip it back over for speaker clarity

Ahh. It does have an output for an external speaker. I haven't cut anything up yet, so may look at other spots.

 

[Ratbag]

Thanks for that.

Sure did, cables (power as well) antenna and the connector.
I'm not keen on crimping as the connector is a very snug fit and deforming the prongtube bit will make it impossible to get in.
more pictures
Prongtube end:


The fact that it has a cutaway makes me think that soldering it is probably intended.

Cable end:


From what I've been reading, the screw in type of fittings are a bit average.
I'm guessing the metal sheath is meant to to be screwed in. But I'm no sparky, and the last time I messed with coax was when we built a 10BASE-T network in a housing co-op I was living in back in the '90s.

Yeah, looks as if that's designed for soldering. I would lightly tin the centre core before insertion. Last time I used these was also back in the mid 1990s for 10 Base-T networks too.

Where did you bring the coax through the firewall? I ran mine through the grommet between the brake and clutch.

 

[Ben Up North]

Where did you bring the coax through the firewall? I ran mine through the grommet between the brake and clutch.

Same.
Got a few cables going through there now. Spotlight switching cable, Coax and power for the UHS (I'm running power direct from the battery so if need be I can use radio without the ignition being on) plenty of room for more too!

 

[Ben Up North]

I'm wondering if I should make another hole in the grommet to separate the power from the coax. Will close proximity to 12V affect it all?

 

[Ratbag]

I very much doubt it, mate. That's what the outer sheath on coax is for - shielding.

 

[El_Freddo]

Personally I’d keep the coax away from power wires where practical.

On Ruby Scoo I mounted my uhf radio on the ceiling near my map lights. The aerial is on the roof, rear left corner. Power and earth wires run down the A pillar, coax cable above the roof liner.

Works a treat, very clear reception and I’m apparently easily heard too.

As for that little plug, my unit is a Uniden and on this unit it had a small fitting from the factory on the coax cable, an adaptor is used to connect it to the uhf headunit. Simple.

All the best with it! I love having a uhf in our vehicles. Not only is it invaluable when off-roading in a convoy, but it’s handy when travelling distances to communicate with truckies or to listen in to what’s happening further ahead - and good to warn other of what they’ll come across

Cheers

Bennie

 

[Ben Up North]

Well, my current thought on placement is to put it where I was originally going to put it, and drilling a bunch of holes underneath it (above the fuse cover) to let the sound out if required. or even drill a bunch of holes in the fuse cover, seeing as I've got a spare one.
next problem is where to stick the microphone. currently I've got the mount stuck with some double sided mounting tape on the A pillar, but I'm worried about heat. I might try mounting it just above unit, on the blanks that are there, but then it's going to be in the way of the head unit a bit. Gaah!

 

[Kevin]

If you've got or can get a dash mat then a little bit of velco on the back of the mic and it will stick to the mat?
Where the black top of the dash meets the grey lower panel I put a strip of velco and it holds my Scanguage? Or maybe you can slip "something" like a right angle bracket in-between the lower and upper dash panels to which you could then attach the mic holder.

 

[Ben Up North]

If you've got or can get a dash mat then a little bit of velco on the back of the mic and it will stick to the mat?

Then it would still be in the sun which is the problem...

Or maybe you can slip "something" like a right angle bracket in-between the lower and upper dash panels to which you could then attach the mic holder.

now there's a thought! maybe I could do something with the antenna bracket that came with the kit (no need for the bracket due to the roo bar having a mount )
Thanks for the suggestion

 

[Kevin]

I could do something with the antenna bracket

They are very useful for that purpose

Yep, they are useful for that purpose

I need to get a 90 degree connect for the antenna

 

[Kevin]

I replaced the Triton CB pic in post #3 with a current version: https://www.offroadsubarus.com/threads/bens-uhf-fitting.8563/#post-111366

Also my experience shows that CBs need to be clearly visible when driving to be able to take advantage of all the features available.

I installed the original GME 3400 CB remote head unit in the Foz ashtray; OK but still not ideal for operating on the move


Then when I transferred it to the Triton I again mounted it down low (you'd think I would learn!)

So that's why my current CBs are very clearly visible!

 

[El_Freddo]

@Kevin - this is why I like my radios on the roof - easy to see, speaker is close to your ears, can listen to music and still hear the uhf within reason.

On our Pajero, it came with a uhf under the heater controls in front of the gear selector. I find it hard to hear unless it’s blaring at you and the passenger (which is “great” when you get an unexpected quick blast of static). On the roof would be sweet but I really cbf’d moving it, plus it’s a full single DIN unit, so not practical. Then what do we put in the hole too??

Anyway, @Ben Up North - sounds like it’s all going well!

Cheers

Bennie

 

[Ben Up North]

Went for a drive to a mate's place and soldered up the connector with enough slack so I have flexibility when I figure out my mounting position without it coiling or getting in the way.

Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be able to get it mounted in the ceiling though, unless I cut the connector off and re-do it. that would be the sweetest spot, but the hardest to do while having it look good

I also like the look of it mounted in the switch blanks, but I think you're right Kevin - screen visibility is pretty poor. If I knew someone with a 3D printer I'd get a replacement cover made for the 'pocket' (dunno what its name is) above the centre console. that would be neat.

Back in the day when I first experienced CB radio, they were all hidden as it was illegal unless licensed I believe (my brother had one in the Kombi as well as a bunch of mates had them in their cars).

Not really fussed about sound currently as it has an external speaker jack if things are muffled.

The main thing is it works! Nobody on the roads though, so didn't hear a peep on my way back on channel 40.
I probably could do with a lower dbi aerial as the country is pretty rugged around here but the 6dbi one is meant to be a good all rounder so we'll see.

I'll put up some more pics of the final installation when I have it done,

 

[El_Freddo]

I should also say that roof mounted in my Subi you don’t see it when peering in the window. The only give away is the aerial on the roof.

The mic and cord are tucked up on the roof too. I’ll have to dig up a pic for you...

Cheers

Bennie

 

[Kevin]

Here's a 3400 head unit as an example - much easier to install when the head unit is about the size of a Scangauge!