SH Forester Drivetrain Thunk

JohnA

Forum Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2011
Messages
64
Location
Sydney & Central West
Car Model
SH Forester
The Forester has a curious new issue. It's a deep thunk in the drivetrain that occurs when the car is stopped - out of gear, clutch out, engine off - or running. You can feel it though the seats, like there's some tension being released from part of the driveline - there are times am certain it's coming from the rear - other times less sure. It's definitely not the air con compressor - I can hear that, too, but it's not felt through the seats like this is.

The Forester has an ADS drivetrain - the front diff is helical WRX STi diff, the fluid centre coupling (could be the culprit?), is uprated from 4kg stock to 20kg and is of the kind used in WRX STi rally cars. The rear diff is an R160 LSD, I think from an older model WRX STi - it's geared lower than stock at 4.44, instead of 4.11.

The Torsen is mechanical with spider gears and can't imagine it storing tension, the gearbox itself could not be thunking and functioning - nor can I feel the thunk through the stick. This may be relevant information given the Toresen and centre coupling are in the housing.

The viscous coupling is a closed unit and my understanding is that it should only solidify when the wheels are slipping - this thunk happens after I've been simply pootling around town between traffic lights. I've wondered about the electric handbrake letting go after stopping but not sure that makes sense, mechanically.

Can't imagine a rear LSD thunking without any vehicle motion, either, though it (or something back there) does make a slight scraping nose when I turn tight left. ADS had to machine the rear diff housing to fit the R160.
It happens one time only, until the car moves again - somehow movement is storing energy/tension in the driveline.

The thunk comes and goes. Sometimes it happens often. Sometimes it goes away completely. Dirt road and off road performance remains pretty amazing. There's no other noise from the driveline. Obviously the car needs to be looked at, and soon, but before the issue is exposed to the assertions of a mechanic with business survival front of mind, has anyone else experienced such a thing?

Thanks for any input!
 
Have you checked the rear tail shaft centre bearing mounting for looseness, or bolts fallen out?
 
I'd vote for a fault with the rear LSD locking for some reason, then the thunk is the release - what sort of design is it ?

Can't see the center viscous diff holding any torque without having other serious issues you'd notice.
 
@JohnA Sounds like wind-up to me; have you checked with ADS?
What do you mean by wind-up? Cheers and thanks.

I pretty sure the culprit is the center diff....
Hmmmmm. I worry about this being the case - especially given it's part of the gearbox.

Have you checked the rear tail shaft centre bearing mounting for looseness, or bolts fallen out?
Will take a look at this - a general look under the car doesn't show up anything flapping around. All pretty solid considering the life it's had.
 
I'd vote for a fault with the rear LSD locking for some reason, then the thunk is the release - what sort of design is it ?

Can't see the center viscous diff holding any torque without having other serious issues you'd notice.
Am not sure whether it's a 5 or 1-bolt R160 LSD, or what part of the mechanism could hold and release tension without it coming apart. Think it's time for the mechanics though as you can imagine, not very eager to open the gearbox, with all the labour that will go into that.
 
@JohnA

It could be the centre diff causing the "wind-up". Wind-up is when "something" in the drive train is resisting free-play / unlocking and so tension builds up in the drive train and is often noticed with a "thump" when you stop when everything gets "relaxed". It's more likely on older models for the LSD to stop working completely rather than cause any lock-up.

So, yes, it may be the centre diff. There's a guy, Peter, in Sydney who overhauls them:
 
First thing to check is if all four tires are at the same pressure or/and the tread is similarly worn.
 
First thing to check is if all four tires are at the same pressure or/and the tread is similarly worn.

Hi, jf - thanks for this input - having checked with ADS they suggested the same issue - 1 or 2 tyres with straying pressures. It was a slow leak in the rear driver's side - when pressures got out of balance - and not very far out - tension would build up in the 20kg centre coupling then release when the car stopped moving with a real thump.

ADS also suggested running 36psi all round - I was running 32 in the front and 33 in the rear - partly to ease bumping caused by my tired sub-frame bushings and aging front struts and shocks. 36psi seemed high - there's more crashing on pavement but the the car does handle better and economy is somewhat better, too.

The intermittent nature of the issue seems to have been the result of my more or less equalizing tyre pressures from time to time. I just had no idea I was resolving the issue topping up, so was not on top of pressures as much as I needed to be...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top