Outback Replacing engine mounts… any tips?

Dave Hansford

Forum Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2020
Messages
119
Location
New Zealand
Car Year
2008
Car Model
Outback
Transmission
4EAT
Has anyone done the engine mounts on a BP Outback? I’m in for a trying weekend… replacing leaking valve cover gaskets, and seeing I have to unbolt the mounts and jack the engine up anyway, and I have a pair of new STI mounts sitting on the shelf, I thought I may as well go for extra misery points…

A couple of you tube videos recommend taking the manifold off first, as it offers (a bit) more room, but the driver’s side mount is also buried under the steering rack, and those nuts look like an exercise in profanity…

Sounds like it’s a good idea to only completely unbolt one side at a time - lots of epic posts about not being able to guide the new mount studs back into the crossmember holes otherwise…

Has anyone done this job? And if so, do you have any helpful hints? Cheers…
 
Or tiny little elf hands… and I thought changing spark plugs was bad enough…

A boxer engine low down between the rails sounds great until…
 
First, you have to put the car on jack stands because the suspension will push the car up the same time you try to lift the engine. Otherwise, its not difficult to do, I did both sides at the same time on my Forester SF
 
Well, it’s done… disconnected anything that would stop it, and jacked the engine up to replace the mounts (had to take the sway bar off first), and replaced valve cover gaskets - and the spark plug seals, which were leaking - while it was up there. There’s no way you can get the valve covers off a BP Outback without lifting the engine first, and if you leave the exhaust connected, which I did, it gets you only just enough height to wrangle the drivers side cover off over the rocker gear. It really helps if you remove the fuel injector protector plate. And because it’s 100,000 km service time, it got new plugs, leads (the old ones were covered in oil anyway), air filter, drive belts, fuel filter, radiator hoses and fresh coolant. Also cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. Beer time…
 
Thanks! It got a bit sweary there for a bit. You have to remove/replace the driver’s side rear engine mount bolt completely by braille - it’s totally buried. I love it when they give you torque settings for bolts like that: I couldn’t even swing a ratchet spanner in there, let alone get a torque wrench on it.
 
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