ADS Drivetrain Upgrade Thoughts

JohnA

Forum Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2011
Messages
64
Location
Sydney & Central West
Car Model
SH Forester
Had a fine time with the SH Forester and its new ADS drivetrain over Easter. The SH now has 1.447 low range, 444 final drive, standard 1-4 and a taller 5th that's a just touch lower thanks to that reduced final drive. There's now a 20kg fluid coupling and LSDs front and rear.

There was a bunch of other work done, as some deferred maintenance to get through. The only things not sorted were the bushings (not enough time to wait for parts to arrive ) and a seeping head gasket on the passenger side that will need to make a decision about, given the old blue coolant had turned a disconcerting shade of brown.

Pretty happy with the ratios – low first is great on broken ground and can be better relied on to manage mild downhills, while top gear seems only a couple of hundred rpm lower than before. Being a touch lower it's now much more flexible and pulls happily from near 60kmph onwards. Did not need to change down as much on typical windy, undulating country roads. On the freeway the speedo shows 120kmph at around 3050rpm, which am fine with - on backroads 100kmph comes up at 2500rpm - higher revs but closer to the sweet spot in terms of maintaining speed/revs on grades.

Being able to stay in 5th most the time improved fuel efficiency from around 8.2L/100 for a weekend away with 600km of combined driving that included freeway out of Sydney, over the Blue Mountains, country roads and plenty of dirt, to 7.4L/100. Was probably going a bit more gently and did not hit any trails but this much improved economy in mixed driving was totally unexpected. Pleased to find that traffic lights notwithstanding could stay in 5th almost the whole way over the mountains, discounting that steep-ish climb up to Wentworth Falls.

Also happy with the ratios in the inner city - can sit a gear higher - in 4th in a 40 zone, for instance. This makes things smoother and means fewer changes. It's possible to nearly stop and then go in 2nd, while 1st is now perfect for city laneways, even though it's a touch higher than the old 1LR used in those tight situations in the past. The lower gearing is also good in very slow moving traffic, which with the standard gearbox could be a bit of a pain.

Forester gear box.jpg LR.jpg
No, I did not crawl under the car and stare at the 'new' gearbox for hours on end.

So far as I understand it, the helical LSD at the front balances power at the wheels and instantly adjusts to loss of grip by shifting power from the side losing traction using a bunch of fun worm gears. However it works, as soon as got into the car it felt like the steering was heavier - even stopped and checked the tyre pressures. The steering also pulls strongly back into a straight line in a way it did not used to. Am disposed to like this.

The car is more planted, not only on the dirt but on the tar. For instance, on the way down the mountains there's that bend at Lapstone before you get onto the freeway and I always felt the need to back off there. No longer. Kind of reminds me of driving an A4 Quattro or a Golf GTi, or a WRX, unlikely as any of that sounds - you can drive into a corner in the knowledge grip will be there.

My feeling is that the prior tendency to oversteer due to loss of grip (and the electronic management of such loss with automatic braking) has gone. The car now follows the front wheels with all its might and the R160 LSD pushes along behind with almost no tendency to step, even with one wheel in the gravel, even on corrugations. The weird mix of open diffs and electronic braking with the standard setup once had me going backwards down Snake Valley Creek in the mud with no driver input whatever, so pretty pleased with how it feels now.

Not certain which of the changes has enhanced handling so much - the 20kg coupling, the LSDs, my fevered imagination (guessing the LSDs, particularly the helical front), but whatever is going on, the SH is now a complete animal on dirt roads and very confidence inspiring.

Have not done any challenging fire trails yet but did bump around the place in 1st low range in order to get a feel for it - clearly it's going to be a significant enhancement. Running G15s and could not find anywhere to lose traction, even on wet grass. Be interested to see how she goes in the messy stuff, given I did not opt for the Cusco rear. Obviously, will not do so well with a corner in the air, or in the mud with complete loss of traction, but hopefully it will be much better than before.

More comments to follow...anyone else with a modified drivetrain, please weigh in!
 
Used to love that backroad, (wonder if it still exists?) from Lapstone up the mountains as a fun alternative to the GWH. Used to fly up there in my old Renault 10 on its 135(?)X15 pennies and all of 1108 cc`s.
The only drive mods on mine are the really useful 1.59 LR and a slight tyre size increase, 60 to 65 profile. Both of which, with the 40 mm lift, are worth their weight in gold.
Using a GPS my top (5th) gear is just about spot on 40kph/1000 revs. This is agreed with by my speedo because of the larger tyre. Your drive ratio change has made top gear more flexible no doubt aided by your better torque curve.
How much were your mods if you don`t mind me asking? I recall that ADS were very good mechanically but NOT cheap.
Why not, it's very pretty :D
No mud......yet.
 
@ateday

Remember the road you are talking about - think it does still exist but not driven it for years. Your 1.59 reduction sounds good - was disappointed the option for something lower wasn't available but taken as a whole I'm pretty happy with the car. Was not expecting to enjoy the ratio tweaks as much - 5th is only slightly lower than standard but there's a marked difference in drivability.

The strengthened ADS gearbox with low range and various internal mods, as well as the helical LSD, was a bit over 5k. Installing all that was 780. The .444 LSD rear was about 1K - there was some shaping to get the R160 to fit. Had a bunch of other stuff done under the car - rear brakes, new clutch, both rear wheel bearings, lower control arms, and more, all of which needed doing, anyway.

Was in a better than usual position when it came to making the ADS decision, as the synchro had gone on 4th and was going on third in the original box, so a replacement was well overdue. Seemed nuts to spend around 3000 for the same thing as before, knowing it would not give me a joy.

Washout Lane.jpg LR.jpg
Getting down is easy enough but we've never been able to drive up it...

Found ADS good to deal with - they could have talked me into a range of borderline silly decisions but after hearing out my use case and noting my tendency to drive around obstacles, argued for a dirt road and street-biased setup. There are a couple of situations will need to drive through to assess whether or not the R160 rear was the right one call. Guess can always swap it out in a while.

An alternative was to upgrade to a newer model Forester but found I could not deal with the idea of paying 35K+ for a car that has the same engine, carries 200kg more weight, has no gears to play with and still has a terrible stereo. Further, the garage in town is like, 5mm longer than the SH, so that was a major factor in retaining the 13yo car.

Of course, didn't expect to find a leaking head gasket - nothing serious yet, but doubt it can be left too long. Brings up decision of replacing original gaskets with something decent like Felpro, or putting in a reconditioned engine. Tending towards getting the gaskets done - have only put 185km on the car - but deciding to spend 2500 on gaskets rather than 5000 on a new motor will be a painful choice.

On a side note, was surprised to find the SubaXtreme sump guard had multiple big cracks in it, along with a bunch of nasty gouges. Have a new guard on the way, so might reinstall the old one tomorrow and have a final crack at ascending Hail Mary Hill this weekend...
 
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That hill looks interesting. Probably a lot harder than it appears from the photo. Sometimes a bit of road building is required.
I cracked my SubaXtreme sump guard on a termite mound in the western part of Lawn Hill in 2004. Managed to flatten the star ahaped crack and it`s been ok since.
The 1.59 LRs were scarce as hen`s teeth. I think my bits were sourced from some Mitsubishi gearbox by the original SubaXtreme owners, Jodie and John, I think they were. Has given no probs at all. In fact the only gearbox problem I have had was a slightly slow 5th gear synchro some 5 years ago which disappeared of its own accord.
 
Used to love that backroad, (wonder if it still exists?)
It's still there - if you mean Old Bathurst Rd; Mitchells Pass; Lennox Bridge etc and exits via Wilson's Way the other side of Blaxland

I travelled Lapstone hill a lot prior to 2017 and my stiffer suspension also meant no slowing down for that bend; like a train on tracks. A pity it doesn't have a higher speed limit! ;)
 
It's still there - if you mean Old Bathurst Rd; Mitchells Pass; Lennox Bridge etc and exits via Wilson's Way the other side of Blaxland

I travelled Lapstone hill a lot prior to 2017 and my stiffer suspension also meant no slowing down for that bend; like a train on tracks. A pity it doesn't have a higher speed limit! ;)

Mitchells Pass, that's the one.
 
@ateday - It's definitely steeper than it looks. Agree about the road building. Will take a mattock and a couple of maxtrax - getting from the left hand side (looking down the hill) up to where the imp is standing is a proper contact point with the standard suspension. Finding grip on that granite sand is challenging, too. Looking forward to it.
 
More comments to follow...anyone else with a modified drivetrain, please weigh in!
You have a very capable drivetrain now !

Helical diffs are the way to go, even at the rear which I upgraded with a Quaife. And since you have a VDC, it will help you with a wheel off the ground, something I'd love to retrofit to my old SF...

Another reason your steering is a bit heavier is probably due to the 20kg center. I opted for a DCCD allowing for a 35/65 front/rear torque split when open to a 50/50 when locked
 
Very nice build!

I was running the 1.447 LR and 4.44 diffs for a few years in my SG. I kept the original 5th gear so do rev a bit higher on the highway. Makes getting up hills and overtaking easier as you don't have to down shift often at all. I haven't noticed a difference in economy.

Two months ago I upgraded to the 1.59 low range. There's a fair bit more work making the 1.59 fit with 4.44's in comparison to the 1.447. The difference off-road isn't massive, but is more noticeable then I thought it would be. Got two good trips out of it, and then a bit of swarf went through a bearing so became rebuild time again, the joys of working on cars :lol1:

I also have an R180 ARB rear diff lock and 12kg centre diff. I was concerned the 20kg would upset the handle of the car through the backroads and windy gravel roads, so I do find your comments very interesting! Do the wheels skip at all during full lock turns? Have you had any complaints with it?
 
@JohnA - your account of the heavier steering rings true with me too. I have a helical front LSD and completely open centre diff (proper mechanical lock when offroad) and the steering is heavier than before the front LSD.

With my setup if I take off hard when the LSD was new the steering wheel weight would shift a little from left to right as the steering wheels found and lost their grip. I could only do this in the wet. It goes well offroad. No rear LSD for me sadly, but I have a torque locker lined up so that should be interesting.

I’m also running 4.111:1 diff ratio and maintained the 1.59:1 L series low range, would love the 4.44:1, but can’t complain as the L series I shoved all of this into used to be 3.7:1 ratio with 23 inch diameter tyres, now rolling on 27inch tyres with a 3 inch lift. All of this is with a phase2 gearbox casing and drive gears. I managed to work out the speedo drive gear and my speedo runs true which I really like.

I need to get some things done and get her running for use again. Sadly the family doesn’t fit in my OG Ruby Scoo 4wd Subi anymore, and I’m yet to split the family up for an offroad trip - either into two vehicles or leave some at home… Mrs El Freddo won’t be happy driving offroad so I guess she’ll be at home :unsure:

Only thing after the 4.44 diff ratios that would make Ruby Scoo better would be a manual rear locker over the auto - just for drive ability one road and reducing stresses on the drivetrain by only using the locker when actually needed.

Cheers

Bennie
 
I also have an R180 ARB rear diff lock and 12kg centre diff. I was concerned the 20kg would upset the handle of the car through the backroads and windy gravel roads, so I do find your comments very interesting! Do the wheels skip at all during full lock turns? Have you had any complaints with it?

No complaints at all - was in the country over this long weekend and got mildly silly a couple of times and again found the car very balanced with ESP on or off.

When in the dirt and pushing through corners - not washing off speed/changing down but just going in at near road speed and accelerating through - it's hard to describe the car's neutral feel. The front goes where it's pointed and the back just shoves along behind with minimal/no stepping. That's really all there is to say about it.

In stock form the car used to push the front and the back would step/hop in unpredictable ways as it lost traction. If conditions were challenging/slippery enough, the back end seemed to disconnect altogether. Stock, it was quite good accelerating through a corner from a sensible entry speed, but once the car started to go you needed to steer with it - not always ideal.

In terms of the 20kg coupling impacting on the mechanics at lock, I've not noticed any quirky behaviour and was not expecting to. Think the Cusco rear diff rumbles a bit on lock - Jomo has posted video/audio of that elsewhere on the site.

Think the impact of the 20kg centre for my sort of driving will be on steep and slippery tracks - we did a couple of the weekend - tracks we've always had to turn back on in the past. The car just clawed its way up in the most surprising way, with traction at all 4 wheels nearly all the time. Once, we had a wheel in the air and distinctly felt the reduction in traction/drive for a moment.

We got up the track in the pic up-thread and we also got up the track in the image below, which is steeper than it looks and has some much steeper sections I've never got out of the car to photograph. The traction is now so good additional in more challenging spots that additional underbody protection is called for.

Descent to Sidmouth Valley Creek.png LR.png

Also found that that the low range let us regain momentum after failing to get up a steep spot, through caution or when lack of holistic awareness cost us speed/revs when picking our way between ruts. In one case, we slid down to the approach and with a little right foot encouragement, she bolted up the section without a glance back.
 
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Been out in the country for a couple of weeks being silly - still amazed by the difference the new drivetrain makes - especially love the turn-in and front end grip from the helical front diff. In slippery, muddy, wet road conditions it hangs on like mad and the ability to change direction is not like a Forester at all - it's like the front end moves at right angles to the road, the sharper the corner, the more pronounced the sensation. It's so different that I'm not used to it yet and the turn-in still catches me.

Reading around it, the phrase that explained the Torsen sensation was 'positive yaw moment'. Not really sure what that means but I know what it feels like. It's not only a grip improvement from the Torsen, there's a handling improvement and an associated safety aspect to being able to change direction and not lose traction. Not to mention the fun. Coming up those twisties into Lithgow from the Jenolan Caves turn-off recently I took considerable pleasure annoying a turbo-charged $60,000 ute with all the add-ons, who was surprised to find the battered X could get around tight corners better than they can.

We have found the limits of the set-up on steep slippery climbs but always managed to get through - having ESP off helps a lot. On that topic, the ADS setup has reduced the instrusiveness of the ESP and turning it off reduces it further still. Eventually - in deep mud - it will intrude. Still no regrets.
 
The AWD allows better powering out of the corner I have found.
Totally agree.
Not that there is much power to start with...................
The EJ-253 engine in the post–2005 Foresters (in Australia) fixed that problem. Plenty of torque to maximum revs, and a lot more torque between 1200 and 2200 rpm.

This was the first thing I noticed when test driving both before I bought Roo2. The first series SG Foresters with the EJ-251 all felt very sluggish in comparison. Nearly as bad as my 1800cc Impreza up to around 2500-3000 rpm. That much difference.
 
Totally agree.

The EJ-253 engine in the post–2005 Foresters (in Australia) fixed that problem. Plenty of torque to maximum revs, and a lot more torque between 1200 and 2200 rpm.

This was the first thing I noticed when test driving both before I bought Roo2. The first series SG Foresters with the EJ-251 all felt very sluggish in comparison. Nearly as bad as my 1800cc Impreza up to around 2500-3000 rpm. That much difference.
Certainly not speedy beasts........
 
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